Summary Narrative of an Exploratory Expedition to the Sources of the Mississippi River, in 1820 / Resumed and Completed, by the Discovery of its Origin in Itasca Lake, in 1832

by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft

Since 1824, the smallpox is not known to have appeared among the Indians at the Sault Ste. Marie, nor among the Chippewas north or west from that place. But the Indians of these bands still tremble at the bare name of a disease which (next to the compounds of alcohol) has been one of the greatest scourges that has ever overtaken them since their first communication with the whites. The disease, when once communicated to a band of Indians, rages with a violence wholly unknown to the civilized man. The Indian, guided by present feeling, adopts a course of treatment (if indeed it deserves that appellation) which not unfrequently arms the disease with new power. An attack is but a warning to the poor and helpless patient to prepare for death, which will almost assuredly soon follow. His situation under these circumstances is truly deplorable; for while in a state that even, with proper advice, he would of himself recover, he adds fresh fuel to the flame which is already consuming him, under the delusive hope of gaining relief. The intoxicating draught (when it is within his reach) is not among the last remedies to which he resorts, to produce a lethargy from which he is never to recover. Were the friends of the sick man, even under these circumstances, enabled to attend him, his sufferings might be, at least, somewhat mitigated; but they too are, perhaps, in a similar situation, and themselves without even a single person to minister to their wants. Death comes to the poor invalid, and, perhaps, even as a welcome guest, to rid him of his suffering.

By a comparison of the number of Indians vaccinated upon the borders of Lake Superior with the actual population, it will be seen that the proportion who have passed through the vaccine disease is so great as to secure them against any general prevalence of the smallpox; and perhaps it is sufficient to prevent the introduction of the disease to the bands beyond, through this channel. But in the Folle Avoine country it is not so. Of the large bands of Indians residing in that section of country, only a small fraction have been vaccinated; while of other bands, not a single person has passed through the disease.

Their local situation undoubtedly renders it of the first importance that the benefits of vaccination should be extended to them. Their situation may be said to render them a connecting link between the southern and northwestern bands of Chippewas; and while on the south they are liable to receive the virus of the smallpox from the whites and Indians, the passage of the disease through them to their more northern brethren would only be prevented by their remaining, at that time, completely separated. Every motive of humanity towards the suffering Indian, would lead to extend to him this protection against a disease he holds in constant dread, and of which he knows, by sad experience, the fatal effects. The protection he will prize highly, and will give in return the only boon a destitute man is capable of giving; the deep-felt gratitude of an overflowing heart.

I have the honour to be
Very respectfully, sir,
Your obedient servant,
DOUGLASS HOUGHTON.

Henry R. Schoolcraft, Esq.,
U. S. Ind. Agt., Sault de Ste. Marie.

4. TOPOGRAPHY AND GEOGRAPHY.

IX.
ASTRONOMICAL AND BAROMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS.

1. A Table of Geographical Positions on the Mississippi River at Low Water, observed in 1836.[ [275] By J. N. Nicollet.

PLACES OF OBSERVATION.		ESTIMATED DISTANCES BY WATER.		Altitudes above the Gulf of Mexico.[ [276]	North latitudes.			WEST OF GREENWICH.						Authorities, &c.
		From place to place.	From the Gulf of Mexico.					Longitudes in time.			Longitudes in arc.
Mouths of the Mississippi		Miles.	Miles.	Feet.	°	´	´´	h.	m.	s.	°	´	´´
Northeast pass	The old Balize of the French and pilothouse,	...	...	...	29	7	15.3	5	56	18.44	89	4	36.6	Captain A. Talcott.
	Lighthouse at the entrance	...	...	...	29	8	32.8	5	56	5.52	89	1	22.9	do.
South passlighthouse at the entrance		...	...	...	28	59	42.3	5	56	29.40	89	7	27.1	do.
Southwest pass	The new Balize and pilothouse on the east bayou	...	...	...	28	59	49.5	5	57	15.88	89	18	58.2	do.
	The new lighthouse, completed January, 1840	...	...	...	28	58	50	5	57	25.80	89	21	27	do.
New Orleans Cathedral and level of its front pavement		104	104	10.5	29	57	23	5	59	56	89	59	4
Note.	—Level of the Mississippi above the Gulf of Mexico, 0.5 foot.	...	...	...	...			...			...			Albert Stein, C. E.
	Greatest depth of the Mississippi at low water, 113 feet.
	Range between high and low water, 13 feet.
Red River, north end of the island, opposite the mouth		236	340	76	31	2	25	6	6	45	91	41	15	Nicollet.
Natchez,	lighthouse	66	406	86	31	33	37	6	5	53.5	91	28	22.5	do.
	general level of the city	...	...	264
Note.—Range between high and low water, in 1835, 52 feet
Yazoo River, the mouth		128	534	...	32	28	00	6	3	58	90	59	30	Ferrer.
White River, Montgomery's Landing, one mile above the mouth		220	754	202	33	57	20	6	1	47	90	26	45	Nicollet.
New Madrid, Missouri		361	1,115	...	36	34	30	5	57	49	89	27	15	Ferrer.
Ohio River, north side of the mouth		101	1,216	824	37	00	25	5	56	10	89	2	30	Ferrer's longitude.
Cape Girardeau		41	1,257	...	37	18	39	5	57	8	89	17	00	Long's 1st expedition.
St. Genevieve, Catholic church, and level of its pavement		73	1,330	372	37	59	47	6	0	44.7	90	11	10	Nicollet.
St. Louis, garden of the Cathedral		60	1,390	382	38	37	28	6	1	2.6	90	15	39	do.
Illinois River, the mouth		36	1,426	...	38	58	12	...			...			Long's 1st expedition.
Moingonan River (Des Moines River), a small island at the mouth		168	1,594	444	40	21	43	6	6	10	91	32	30	Nicollet.
Montrose, or old Fort Des Moines, the mouth of the creek		15	1,609	470	40	30	34	6	6	4	91	31	00	do.
Flint River, the mouth, above Burlington		30	1,639	486	40	52	56	...			...			do.
Maskudeng, the middle mouth of the slough		39	1,678	505	41	14	47	6	5	26	91	21	30	do.
Rock Island, a quarter of a mile above Davenport's residence		44	1,722	528	41	31	50	...			...			do.
Head of the Upper Rapids, below Port Biron and Parkhurst		15	1,737	554	41	36	8	6	1	56	90	29	00	do.
Prairie du Chien (Kipisaging), American Fur Company's house		195	1,932	642	43	3	6	6	4	37.3	91	9	19.5	do.
Summit of bluff on the eastern side of Prairie du Chien		...	...	1,010
Capàl'ail, the summitheight above the Mississipi, 335 feet		32	1,964	1,013	...			...			...			do.
Upper Iowa River, island at the mouth		14	1,978	...	43	29	26	6	4	40	91	10	00	do.
Hokah River (Root River), the mouth		23	2,001	...	43	47	00	6	4	46	91	11	30	do.
Praire à la Crosse River, the mouth		3	2,004	...	43	49	00	6	4	56	91	14	00	do.
Sappah River, or Black River opposite the old mouth		31	2,035	683	43	57	14	6	5	36	91	24	00	do.
Top of mountain on right bank, opposite the old mouth		...	...	1,214	...			...			...			do.
Dividing ridge between Sappah River and Prairie à la Crosse River, 6 miles east of Mississippi		...	...	1,103	...			...			...			do.
Mountain Island, or Montagne qui trempe à l'Eau of the French		7	2,042	...	44	1	7	6	6	2	91	30	30	Nicollet.
Miniskah River, or White-water River		27	2,069	...	44	12	36	6	7	25	91	51	15	do.
Wazi-oju River, or Pinewood River (Rivière aux Embarras of the French)		1	2,070	...	44	13	20	6	7	22	91	50	30	do.
At Roque's, two and a half miles below Chippeway River		14	2,084	...	44	23	24	6	8	00	92	00	00	do.
Clear Water River, the mouth, northwest corner of Lake Pepin		...	...	...	44	36	20	6	9	40	92	25	00	do.
Reminicha (Montagne la Grange of the French), upper end of Lake Pepin		31	2,115	714	44	33	30	6	10	4	92	31	00	do.
Top of Reminicha		...	...	1,036	...			...			...			do.
La Hontan River, the mouth (Cannon River of the Americans, Canoe River of the French)		3	2,118	...	44	34	00	6	10	8	92	32	00	do.
St. Croix River, the mouth		32	2,150	729	44	45	30	6	11	00	92	45	00	do.
Upland on the banks of the Mississippi and Lake St. Croix		...	...	866	...			...			...			do.
St. Peter's, the mouth		42	2,192	744	44	52	46	6	12	19.6	93	4	54	do.
General level of the plateau on which Fort Snelling and the Indian agency stand		...	...	850	...			...			...			do.
Pilot Knob, the top		...	...	1,006	...			...			...			do.
Falls of St. Anthony, United States Cottage		8	2,200	856	44	58	40	6	12	42	93	10	30	do.
Ishkode-wabo River, or Rum River, the mouth		19	2,219	...	45	15	00	...			...			do.
Karishon River (Sioux), or Undeg River (Chippewas), Crow River of the Americans		10	2,229	...	45	16	00	...			...			do.
St. Francis River, Wicha-niwa River of the Sioux		9	2,238	...	45	20	30	...			...			Nicollet.
Migadiwin Creek, or War Creek, the mouth		18	2,256	...	45	18	14	6	15	50	93	57	30	do.
Kawakomik River, or Clear-Water River, the mouth		24	2,280	...	45	24	25	6	16	30	94	7	30	do.
Round Island, at the lower end of Osakis Rapids		...	...	...	45	35	00	6	16	48	94	12	00	do.
Osakis River, the mouth		22	2,302	...	45	35	35	6	16	48	94	12	00	do.
Watab River, the mouth		3	2,305	...	45	37	00	6	16	58	94	14	30	do.
Pekushino River, the mouth		18	2,323	...	45	46	50	6	17	14	94	18	30	do.
Wabezi River, or Swan River, a half mile above the mouth		18	2,341	1,098	45	54	30	6	17	28	94	22	00	do.
Omoshkos River, or Elk River, the mouth		10	2,351	...	46	4	00	6	17	4	94	16	00	do.
Nokay's River, the mouth		18	2,369	...	46	10	30	6	17	15	94	18	45	do.
Kagi-wigwan River, the mouth (Aile de Corbeau River of the French, Crow-Wing River of the Americans)		12	2,381	1,130	46	16	50	6	17	31	94	22	45	do.
Nagadjika River, opposite the mouth		18	2,399	...	46	26	00	...			...			do.
Pine River, the mouth		30	2,429	1,176	46	35	00	...			...			do.
Willow River, the mouth		65	2,494	...	46	40	30	6	13	30	93	22	30	do.
Sandy Lake River, the mouth		32	2,526	1,253	46	47	10	6	12	38	93	9	30	do.
Swan River, the mouth		38	2,564	1,290	47	00	43	6	12	36	93	9	00	do.
Kabikons, or Little Falls, the head of the falls		63	2,627	1,840	47	14	50	6	13	47	93	26	45	do.
Wanomon River, or Vermilion River, the mouth		21	2,648	...	47	11	4	6	14	10	93	32	30	do.
Eagle Nest savannah (Marais aux Nids d'Aigle of the French)		16	2,664	...	47	18	10	6	14	36	93	39	00	do.
Leach Lake River, the mouth		11	2,675	1,356	47	14	00	6	14	52	93	43	00	do.
Lake Cass, the old trading-house on a tongue of land near the entrance of the Mississippi		80	2,755	1,402	47	25	23	6	18	16	94	34	00	do.
Pemidji Lake, or Lake Travers, the entrance of the Mississippi		45	2,800	1,456	47	28	46	6	19	22	94	50	30	do.
Itasca Lake, Schoolcraft's Island		90	2,890	1,575	47	13	35	6	20	8	95	2	00	do.
Utmost sources of the Mississippi, at the summit of the Hauteurs de Terre, or dividing ridge, between the Mississippi and Red River of the North		6	2,896	1,680