By
Henry Stephens
Harvard, A.B., Vienna, Ph.D.

FIRST EDITION

The Knickerbocker Press
New York
1920

Copyright
BY
HENRY STEPHENS
1920

TO
MR. H. L. MENCKEN, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND
WHO IS CONSIDERED TO BE AMERICA'S FOREMOST CRITIC
OF LITERATURE I GLADLY DEDICATE THIS BOOK OF TRAVELS

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
PAGE
Montevideo[1]
Experience in landing. Population of the city. Conservativeness of the inhabitants. Gambling establishment at Playa Ramirez. Train ride to Colonia.
CHAPTER II
Buenos Aires[21]
Population of the city. Streets and architecture. High cost of living. Hotels. Beverages. Street beggars and vagabonds. Mariano Moreno College. Habit of not bathing. Jews. La Plata.
CHAPTER III
San Luis[62]
Appearance of the city. Capitol. Plazas. Hotels. Neighboring country. Character of the natives. Train ride to Mendoza.
CHAPTER IV
Mendoza[78]
Viticulture. Fruit growing. Wheat. Population and appearance of the city. Earthquake of 1861. Cerrito de la Gloria. Hotels. Aconcagua. Cacheuta. Across the Andes. Arrival in town of Los Andes.
CHAPTER V
Salta and Tucumán[101]
Train ride to Salta. Lerma Valley. Province of Salta. Chuchu fever. Population of the city of Salta. 20th of February Club. Churches and San Francisco Monastery. Population of the city of Tucumán. Capitol. Governor Padilla. Heat of the city. Hotel Savoy. Kirwin the photographer. Villa Nougués.
CHAPTER VI
Córdoba[130]
Province of Córdoba. Description of the city of Córdoba. Great number of consumptives. Breweries. Streets, religious edifices, and hotels. Sierra de Córdoba. Cosquin. Locust pest. Rosario; its hotels. Pergamino. Mercedes.
CHAPTER VII
Asuncion[155]
Train ride from Buenos Aires. Population of Paraguayan districts and towns. Don Eduardo Schaerer. Currency. Colonnades. Pavement of Asuncion's streets. Oratory of Lopez. Climate, rains, and reptiles. Madame Lynch. Hotels. Mangrullo Cemetery. Market-place. Cigars. Low cost of living. Asuncene womanhood. Unmorality. Ypacara-i.
CHAPTER VIII
To the Source of the Paraguay River[195]
River scenery. Villa Concepcion. San Salvador. State of Matto Grosso. Corumbá. Lawlessness. By water to Cuyabá. City of Cuyabá. Huber. Detour to source of river. Bog and pool. Huber becomes ill; his death. Diamantino. Return to Buenos Aires by river. Yerba maté.
CHAPTER IX
Santiago[226]
Republic of Chile. Central Valley. Longitudinal railways. Paucity of factories. Breweries. The Chileno. Illegitimacy. Fiesta of the Angelito. Reception in Santiago. Compactness of the city; its streets. Installation of the president. Military parade. American ambassador. Hotels. High death rate. General Cemetery. Apoquindo.
CHAPTER X
Baths of Cauquenes. Chiloé Island. Lake Nahuel. Huapi[263]
Rancagua. Baths of Cauquenes. Hostelry. Horseback ride to Los Lirios. Linares. Panimávida. Araucania and its native inhabitants. Temuco. Valdivia. Osorno. Fire at Osorno. Ancud. Castro. Lake Llanquihue. El Tronador Puella. Puerto Blest. Lake Nahuel Huapi. San Carlos de Bariloche.
CHAPTER XI
Chillán. Ascent of the Volcano Chillán[312]
Description of the city. Hotel de France. Earthquake. Chillán Viejo. Birthplace of O'Higgins. Journey to Las Termas de Chillán. Establishment of Las Termas. Gambling. Episode of the administrator's brother. Snowfields and glaciers. Eruption of volcano. Don Vicente Mendez U. Curicó.
CHAPTER XII
Northward to Antofagasta by Rail. Copiapó, Antofagasta, and Iquique[347]
Greenberg's adventure. San Felipe. Jahuel. Palm groves. Choapa Valley. Illapel. La Serena. Vallenar. Oasis of Copiapó. Retrogressant provincial capital. Professor Platner. Desert. Prosperity of Antofagasta. Strict prohibition laws. Bubonic plague. Pestilential Tocopilla. Description of Iquique.
CHAPTER XIII
Arica to Ilo Overland, via Tacna, Tarata, and Moquegua. Mollendo[387]
Dr. Petit. Morro of Arica. Dispute between Chile and Peru over Tacna and Arica. Architect Pitaud. Description of Tacna. Peculiar architecture. Hotel Raiteri. Don Santiago Carmona. Caplina Valley. Ascending the Andes, Tarata. Parish priest. Tales of buried treasure. Hacienda Carmona. Ticalco and Sama Valleys. Stupidity of Peruvian jefe politico. Ilabaya. Dishonest cholo and Prat's spree. Don José Vergara. Moquegua. Ilo. Stinking Mollendo. Arrival at Callao.
CHAPTER XIV
Lima[434]
Architecture of Callao. Mixed population of Lima and its seaport. Origin of Lima. Rimac River. Interesting city. Its population. Confusion of street names. Concepcion Market. Religious edifices and procession of El Milagro. Hotels and cafés. Difficulty in getting money changed. Crookedness of post office officials. General Cemetery. Viceroys of Peru.
CHAPTER XV
Across the Cordillera to the Rio Tambo[470]
Departure from Oroya. Across the Cumbre. Tarma. Valley of the Rio Palca. Huacapistana. Tropical vegetation. Swinging bridges. San Ramon. La Merced and the Chanchamayo River. Chuncho, Campas, and Cashibo Indians. Perené Colony. Down the Ucayali. Iquitos. Head hunting Indians.
CHAPTER XVI
Business Prospects in Argentina, Paraguay, and Chile[496]
Knowledge of Spanish and of the Latin character a necessity. Companies should be fully capitalized. Wheat belt of Argentina. Argentina poor in fuel and in minerals. Zona del Riego. Flour mills and beef canning factories. Stock raising and great ranches. Tannic acid factories. Grafting politicians. Breweries and sugar mills. Yerba maté industry in Paraguay. Bright outlook for Chile. Topography of the country. Nitrate, minerals, and viticulture. Breweries. Enamel works. Railroads of Chile. Great need of good hotels.

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
[Henry Stephens, Ph.D.]
[Locust Pest in Argentina]
[Snow in the Tropics]
[Reflection of Aconcagua in the Clouds above Valparaiso]Frontispieces
[Colonia, Uruguay]19
[Congress Building, Buenos Aires]23
[Buenos Aires Types]25
[Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires]27
[Mr. Oliver H. Lane]29
[Calle Bartolome Mitré, Buenos Aires]31
[Fireman and Policeman, Buenos Aires]33
[Zoölogical Garden, Buenos Aires]35
[Scene on the River at Tigre]53
[Station of the Southern Railway, La Plata]55
[Old Railway Station, La Plata]56
[Bank of the Argentine Nation, La Plata]57
[Bank of the Province of Buenos Aires, La Plata]58
[Allegorical Statue of La Plata]59
[Unfinished Cathedral, La Plata]60
[Plaza San Martin, Mercedes]63
[Street in San Luis]65
[Bank of the Argentine Nation, San Luis]66
[Capitol, San Luis]68
[Matriz Church, San Luis]70
[Estancia near San Luis]73
[Statue of San Martin, Mendoza]84
[Avenida San Martin, Mendoza]85
[Monument to the Army of the Andes, Mendoza]89
[Waiting for the Train at Cacheuta]94
[On the Terrace at Cacheuta]95
[Thermal Establishment at Cacheuta]97
[One of the Diversions at Cacheuta that is neither Bathing nor Gambling]98
[Steps at Cacheuta Leading from the Railroad Station to the Hotel]99
[Güemes]107
[Cathedral and Bishop's Palace, Salta]109
[Tomb in Cemetery, Salta]113
[Calle Mitre, Salta]116
[Capitol, Tucumán]121
[Calle Laprida, Tucumán]123
[Residence of Dr. Juan C. Nougués, San Pablo]127
[Country House at Villa Nougués]128
[Northern Market, Córdoba]133
[Cathedral of Córdoba]137
[Residence of Martin Ferreyra, Córdoba]138
[Church of Santa Teresa, Córdoba]139
[Zoölogical Garden, Córdoba]141
[Corner of Plaza San Martin, Córdoba]142
[Bridge on Road to Dique San Roque]144
[Courthouse, Rosario]147
[Street Scene, Rosario]148
[Plaza 25 de Mayo, Rosario]149
[Street Scene, Rosario]150
[Calle San Nicolas, Pergamino]151
[Plaza 25 de Mayo, Pergamino]152
[Street in Mercedes]153
[Scene from Railroad Station at Villa Rica]162
[Casa de Gobierno, or Capitol, Asuncion]167
[Drawing Showing Construction of Colonnades on a Paraguayan Building]170
[Cabildo, or City Hall, Asuncion]171
[Plazoleta del Puerto, Asuncion]172
[Calle Palmas, Asuncion]173
[Calle 15 de Agosto, Asuncion]174
[Street Scene, Outskirts of Asuncion]175
[Mangrullo Cemetery, Asuncion]184
[Street Scene, Cuyabá]205
[Street Scene, Outskirts of Cuyabá]206
[Source of the Paraguay River]213
[House in Diamantino where Huber Died]220
[Diagram Showing Idea of Central Valley of Chile in Relationship to the Andes Mountains and the Coast Range, with Course of Streams]227
[Scenery, Central Valley of Chile]229
[Village Scene, Central Chile]230
[The Valdivia Breweries Company, Valdivia]233
[Santa Lucia Hill, Santiago]239
[General View of Santiago from Santa Lucia Hill]241
[Alameda, Santiago]242
[Calle Huerfanos, Santiago]243
[Modern Residence on the Alameda, Santiago]244
[Calle Ejercito Liberador, Santiago]245
[Fountain in Santiago]247
[President Don Juan Luis Sanfuentes of Chile with Cabinet]248
[Monument of Don Pedro Montt, Cementerio Jeneral, Santiago]249
[View Looking West on Compañia Street from Estado at the Plaza de Armas, Santiago]251
[Cathedral Street, Santiago]252
[Mapocho River near Santiago]256
[Street in Nuñoa, Chile]261
[Plaza O'Higgins, Rancagua]264
[Calle Bresil, Rancagua]265
[Street in Rancagua]266
[Gorge of the Cachapoal at Baños de Cauquenes]268
[Main Street of Linares]277
[Panimávida]278
[Bridge over the Malleco River at Collipulli]283
[Street in Temuco]287
[Plaza de la Republica, Valdivia]289
[Calle-Calle River at Valdivia, Showing Flour Mills]291
[Street in Valdivia]292
[Riñihue Landscape, Southern Chile]293
[Osorno]295
[Scenery on the Railroad between Osorno and Puerto Montt]297
[Indian Belles, Chiloé Island, Chile]301
[Lake Todos Santos from Petrohué]304
[Puella]306
[El Tronador, Chile]308
[San Carlos de Bariloche]311
[Plaza O'Higgins, Chillán]314
[Calle Roble, Chillán, Looking East from Calle Arauco]315
[Street in Chillán]316
[Market Place, Chillán]317
[Scene at the Station at Pinto]322
[Post Station at La Dehesa]323
[Harvesting Scene at La Dehesa]324
[Mountain in the Renegado Canyon, Chile]325
[Corral of Las Trancas]326
[Forest in the Province of Ñuble, Chile]327
[Scene on the Road to Termas de Chillán]328
[Termas de Chillán]329
[Casuchas at Termas de Chillán]330
[Mr. Henry Stephens]333
[Mr. Hugo Gumprecht]333
[View towards the Argentine Frontier from the Slopes of Volcano Chillán]334
[Glacier Covered with Fresh Snow on the Volcano]335
[Rim of the Crater of Volcano Chillán During Eruption]337
[Snow Fields of Volcano Chillán]337
[From the Slopes of Volcano Chillán]339
[Savedra, Gumprecht, and Prat on Lava Fields of Volcano Chillán]339
[Mountain Scenery and Waterfall at Las Trancas]343
[Church in San Felipe]348
[City Hall, San Felipe]349
[Street in San Felipe]352
[Street in Almendraz]353
[Jahuel]356
[Ocoa]359
[Street in Vallenar]362
[Alameda in Copiapó]363
[Monument Erected in Honor of Atacama's Illustrious Dead, Copiapó]364
[Main Street of Copiapó]365
[Main Street of Copiapó]366
[Outskirts of Copiapó]367
[Hovels on the Outskirts of Copiapó]368
[Cemetery, Copiapó]369
[Plaza Colon, Antofagasta]374
[Provincial Capitol Building, Antofagasta]375
[Street in Antofagasta]377
[Street in Tocopilla]380
[Cemeteries at Tocopilla]382
[Street in Iquique]384
[Street in Iquique]385
[Cemetery, Iquique]386
[Custom House, Arica]388
[Street in Arica]389
[Capitol Building at Tacna]392
[Street in Tacna Showing Earthquake Proof Houses]393
[Calle Bolivar, Tacna]394
[Fountain in Tacna]395
[Unfinished Cathedral in Tacna]396
[Style of Tacna Architecture]397
[Old Residence, Tacna]398
[Street in Tacna]399
[Calle Miller, Tacna]400
[Alameda, Tacna]401
[Street in Tarata]406
[Street in Ilabaya, Peru]423
[Alameda, Moquegua]426
[Street in Moquegua]428
[Street in Moquegua]429
[Callao Harbor]435
[Puente Vieja, Lima, as Seen from the Bed of the Rimac]438
[Calle Huallaga, Lima]440
[Plaza Italia, Lima. Vendors of Bread]441
[Plazuela de la Inquisicion, Lima]442
[Boulevard in Lima]444
[Façade of San Augustin Church, Lima]447
[Procession of the Milagro, Lima]449
[Cercado Church, Lima]460
[Tomb of the Goyeneche Family, in the General Cemetery, Lima]461
[Mr. Kurt Waldemar Linn of New York]462
[Mr. Linn of New York Rising out of the Tomb Erected in Honor of the Peruvian Heroes of the Pacific War, 1879-1882]463
[Corpse Bearer, General Cemetery, Lima]464
[Putting a Coffin into a Niche, General Cemetery, Lima]465
[Llamas at Casapalca]474
[Tarma, Peru]477
[Cemetery, Tarma]479
[Argentine Plazas. Plate No. I]521
[Argentine Plazas. Plate No. II]523
[Chilean Plazas. Plate No. III]525
[Map Showing Route Taken by Author]At End