Yet in the very centre, past all price,

About a liquid glassful will remain;

And this is stronger than the strongest grape

Could e’er express in its expanded shape:

’Tis the whole spirit brought to a quintessence;

And thus the chilliest aspects may concentre

A hidden nectar under a cold presence.’[377]

Although we find Henderson remarking, in 1822, that

‘the pink Champagne is less in request than the colourless, and has in fact nothing to entitle it to the preference,’