That the Champenois were themselves aware of the appreciation in which their wine was held in England is shown by a passage in Coffin’s Campania vindicata. Writing in 1712, the year before the ratification of the Treaty of Utrecht, he calls on the Britons in presence of returning peace to cross the seas, and instead of lavishing their wealth to pleasure blood-stained Mars, to fill their ships with the treasures of the Remois Bacchus, and bear home these precious spoils instead of fatal trophies.[303]
Addison, referring to one source whence French wines were derived, remarks:
‘There is in this City a certain fraternity of Chymical Operators who work underground, in holes, caverns, and dark retirements, to conceal their mysteries from the eyes and observation of mankind. These subterraneous Philosophers are daily employed in the Transmigration of Liquors, and, by the power of Magical Drugs and Incantations, raise under the streets of London the choicest products of the hills and valleys of France. They can squeeze Bourdeaux out of a Sloe, and draw Champagne from an Apple.’[304]
He tells us that
‘the person who appeared against them was a Merchant, who had by him a great magazine of wines, that he had laid in before the war: but these Gentlemen (as he said) had so vitiated the nation’s palate, that no man could believe his to be French, because it did not taste like what they sold for such.’
For the defence it was urged that
‘they were under a necessity of making Claret if they would keep open their doors, it being the nature of Mankind to love everything that is Prohibited.’[305]
The enquiry,
‘And where would your beaux have Champaign to toast their mistresses were it not for the merchant?’[306]