In contemporaneous comedy we are pretty sure to find the mirror held up to fashion, if not to Nature; and turning to the playwrights of that day, it is easy to cull a few confirmatory excerpts. Thus we have Sterling, the ambitious British merchant, in order to do honour to his noble guests, preparing to
‘give them such a glass of Champaign as they never drank in their lives; no, not at a duke’s table.’[337]
While Lord Minikin, the peer of fashion, makes his entrance on the stage, exclaiming:
‘O my head! I must absolutely change my wine-merchant; I cannot taste his Champaigne without disordering myself for a week.’[338]
On Miss Tittup inquiring if his depression is due to losses at cards, he replies,
‘No, faith, our Champaigne was not good yesterday.’[339]
Jessamy, his lordship’s valet, profits of course by so aristocratic an example; and when speaking of his exploits at the masquerade, says,
‘I was in tip-top spirits, and had drunk a little too freely of the Champaigne, I believe.’[340]
With Philip the butler, ‘Burgundy is the word,’ and from the choicest vintages of his master’s cellar he places on the table ‘Claret, Burgundy, and Champaign; and a bottle of Tokay for the ladies;’[341] while Port is characterised by the Duke’s servant as ‘only fit for a dram.’[342] Mrs. Circuit presses the guests at a clandestinely-given repast to ‘taste the Champagne;’ and her husband, the Sergeant, is surprised on his return home to find that they have been so indulging:
‘Delicate eating, in truth; and the wine [Drinks] Champagne, as I live! Must have t’other glass ... delicate white wine, indeed! I like it better every glass.’[343]