The servants of the nobility were sumptuously attired, and there was universal extravagance throughout the nation. So extreme was the dress of the courtiers that it was said to be difficult to distinguish the sex of the wearer if the face were turned away. Costumes were not only worn wide and flowing, but they sometimes went to the other extreme, the garments being worn very short and tight-fitting.
The shoes were made with very long points called crackowes (so named from Cracow, in Poland). Sometimes the points were so long that they were fastened to the knee by chains of gold and silver.
Ladies’ dresses in this reign did not differ much from those of Edward III.’s, but tippets were discarded, and the dresses were ornamented, like the men’s, with heraldic devices, initials, etc.
Chaucer has given us the best information regarding the costumes of the different grades of English society during this reign.
The upper classes wore a short jupon, or tight-fitting vest, parti-coloured, with narrow waist belt and tight sleeves. A loose body garment, with full-hanging scalloped sleeves, was also worn. Over all was worn a great gown, trailing on the ground, with full, long sleeves and a high collar fitting tightly under the chin. Both hoods and felt caps were worn, and a peculiar variety of the latter was in fashion formed of strips arranged in fan fashion.
The hair of the men was worn long, and was curled with great care. The beard was forked, and the moustaches were long and drooping.
The lower orders varied little in their dress from that of the reign of Edward III.
PLATE 31.