HENRY W. NEVINSON
ILLUSTRATED
LONDON AND NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS
45 ALBEMARLE STREET W.
1908
TABLE OF CONTENTS
| INTRODUCTION | |
| PAGE | |
| Summary of recent events—Lord Curzon appointed Viceroy, 1898—The | |
| currency—Calcutta Municipality—Famine of 1900—Punjab | |
| Land Alienation Act—Commission on Expenditure—Lord | |
| Kitchener as Commander-in-Chief—Delhi Durbar—Reduction | |
| of Salt Tax—Official Secrets Act—Universities | |
| Act—Alleged exclusion of Indians from office—National | |
| Congress in Bombay, 1904—Lord Curzon’s Convocation | |
| Speech—Partition of Bengal, October 16, 1905—Swadeshi | |
| movement—Lord Curzon’s resignation—Lord Minto appointed | |
| Viceroy—Mr. John Morley appointed Secretary of | |
| State for India—Trouble in Eastern Bengal—Sir Bampfylde | |
| Fuller resigns—“Coronation” of Mr. Banerjea—Disturbances | |
| in Eastern Bengal and the Punjab—Prosecution | |
| of Indian papers—Riot at Rawal Pindi—Arrest of six lawyers—Deportation | |
| of Lajpat Rai and Ajit Singh—Public Meetings | |
| Ordinance—The Risley Circular—Appointment of two | |
| Indians to Indian Council—Proposed scheme of Reforms—Opium | |
| Agreement with China—Anglo-Russian Agreement—Seditious | |
| Meetings Act—Mr. Morley’s speech at Arbroath—Cases | |
| of supposed failure of justice—Mr. Dadabhai Naoroji | |
| retires to India | [1] |
CHAPTER I | |
| A SERVANT OF INDIA | |
| Festival of Diwali at Poona—The plague—Mr. Gokhale’s Society | |
| of “Servants of India”—His past history—Member of the | |
| Viceroy’s Legislative Council—Rules of the Society—Social | |
| and political aims—The British connection—Indians and | |
| Anglo-Indians—Criticism of proposed reforms—Mr. | |
| Gokhale’s suggestions—A Society dinner | [31] |
CHAPTER II | |
| RATS AND MEN | |
| Plague and rats—Previous attempts to check plague—The rat-flea—War | |
| on rats—Plague mortality—A plague hospital—Symptoms | |
| of plague—Course of the sickness—Descriptions | |
| of former plagues—Inoculation—A Government inoculator | [48] |
CHAPTER III | |
| THE EXTREMIST | |
| The custom of garlanding—The fortress of Singarh—Mr. Tilak—Religion | |
| and scholarship—Theory of the Vedas—His past | |
| history—Breach at Nagpur—His statement of his party’s | |
| aims and methods—“Self-reliance, not mendicancy”—The | |
| boycott—Growth of Indian unity—Quotations from Mr. | |
| Tilak’s speeches—His arrest and sentence in 1908 | [62] |
CHAPTER IV | |
| THE RYOT’S BURDEN | |
| Mr. Junshi on family worship—His passion for statistics—“Statistical | |
| abstract”—Finance and population—Expenditure | |
| on Army, Education, and official Christianity—The Land | |
| Settlement—Its origin and proportion—Is it tax or rent?—Lord | |
| Salisbury’s opinion—How the amount is fixed—Mr. | |
| Vaughan Nash on the Settlement—The cultivator’s income—How | |
| he clings to the land, even without profit—The | |
| money-lender and the Government—Collection of assessment—Ryots | |
| and zemindars—Permanent Settlement of Bengal—Suburbs | |
| of Poona—Character of the Ryot—Government as | |
| protector of the poor—Forest Department—Grazing and | |
| timber—Arms Act and wild beasts—The tiger as scarecrow—A | |
| village petition—A sacrifice to education | [78] |
CHAPTER V | |
| THE SOUTHERN CITY | |
| The pride of Madras—Municipal labours—Decentralization Commission—A | |
| student of philosophy—The religion of the | |
| grave—The religion of healing—A temple of Vishnu—A | |
| family ceremony—Missionaries in Madras—The benefit of | |
| missions—Memory of good Governors—Sir Thomas Munro—Decline | |
| of Anglo-Indian manners—Causes of this—Distrust | |
| of British justice—Proposed separation of functions—Police—Drink | |
| question and revenue—Forms of Swadeshi | [103] |
CHAPTER VI | |
| ON THE BEACH | |
| Meeting on Madras sands—Release of Lajpat Rai and Ajit Singh—Song | |
| of “Bande Mataram”—Parody of Mr. Morley—Speeches—Audience—Absence | |
| of sedition—A Sanyasi’s | |
| speech | [125] |
CHAPTER VII | |
| THE FLOODS OF ORISSA | |
| The country and government—Mountains, rivers, and plains—The | |
| great flood of 1907—Brown skeletons—Officials and | |
| figures—Settlement revision—Scene of flood and famine—Deposit | |
| of sand—Price of food—Chief sufferers—Village | |
| houses—Tax-collectors—Government action—Madhu Sudan | |
| Das—A call on an official—An official order—A Rajah’s | |
| breakfast | [134] |
CHAPTER VIII | |
| “LORD OF THE WORLD” | |
| Pilgrims at Puri—Shrine of Juggernath—Legend of the car—Possible | |
| origin of the god’s fame—Benefit of equality—Brother | |
| and sister—Inequality in India—Its consequences on | |
| Indian and English manners—Possible growth of equality | [152] |
CHAPTER IX | |
| THE DIVIDED LAND | |
| Eastern Bengal—Its rivers—Its fertility—Ancient weaving | |
| industry—Modern hand-looms—Growth of jute—Variable | |
| prices—Jute or rice?—Settlement and zemindars—Boycott | |
| on cotton and salt—Lord Curzon and the Partition—Alternative | |
| scheme—Useless protests against Partition—The | |
| Fast of Commemoration—Part cause of unrest—So-called | |
| sentimental objections—Separation from Calcutta—Sorrows | |
| of landlords—Conjunction with Assam—Fears of separation | |
| from Calcutta High Court | [160] |
CHAPTER X | |
| SWADESHI AND THE VOLUNTEERS | |
| Earlier forms of Swadeshi—The Swadeshi Oath—Effect of | |
| the movement—Encouraged by women—Various Swadeshi | |
| manufactures—Official encouragement—Congress resolutions—Boycott | |
| and picketing—The Volunteers—Origin in early | |
| Congresses—“Little Brothers of the Poor”—Protection to | |
| women pilgrims—Encouragement of athletes—Sufferers | |
| from boycott | [178] |
CHAPTER XI | |
| THE NAWAB | |
| Dacca—City anchorite—Nawab Salimulla—His history and | |
| position—Government loan—Support of Partition—Mohammedan | |
| against Hindu—Nawab’s palace—His conversation—Views | |
| on cooking, jewellery, women, and politics—His | |
| happiness and confidence in Providence—Belief in | |
| English education—Influence over Mohammedans—Characteristics | |
| of Mohammedans—A letter to Layard—Favour | |
| to Mohammedans—Petty persecution of Hindus—Espionage—How | |
| far amusing, how far mean—Memories of Eastern | |
| Bengal | [189] |
CHAPTER XII | |
| THREE BENGALIS AND THE PAPERS | |
| The Kalighat of Calcutta—Worship of Kali—Her symbolism—Other | |
| temple of Kali—Ramakrishna Society—Moti | |
| Lal Ghose—His brother and religion—The Amrita Bazar | |
| Patrika—Moti Lal’s opinions—Surendra Nath Banerjea—Past | |
| history—Position in politics—Ripon College and the | |
| Bengalee—His power as an orator—Manner of eloquence—Bande | |
| Mataram—An Extremist paper—Arabindo | |
| Ghose connected with it—His past career—His policy | |
| of general Swadeshi and boycott of the Government and | |
| everything foreign—His gratitude for Lord Curzon’s rule—Growth | |
| of Indian nationality—Scheme for an Indian popular | |
| assembly—Advocacy of national courage—Macaulay’s | |
| accusation of cowardice—Religious tone of Bengali | |
| Nationalists—Extract from Arabindo Ghose’s address in | |
| Bombay—Violent language of Indian and Anglo-Indian | |
| papers—Examples of style from the Asian and the Times of | |
| India—Insults to Mr. Keir Hardie and the Indians of | |
| Bombay | [206] |
CHAPTER XIII | |
| A MAHRATTA SHOE | |
| Journey to Surat—Dr. Rash Behari Ghose—Arrival at Surat—News | |
| of attempted assassination of Mr. Allen—Separate | |
| Extremist camp—Questions of the Calcutta resolutions—Attitude | |
| towards Bombay Moderates—Sir Pherozeshah | |
| Mehta—Lajpat Rai as peacemaker—Vain negotiations—First | |
| day’s meeting of the Congress—Demonstration against | |
| Mr. Banerjea—Suspension of meeting—Alteration of Calcutta | |
| Resolutions discussed—Crux of the Boycott resolution—Further | |
| vain negotiations—Second day’s meeting—Election | |
| of President—Mr. Tilak’s action—Storm in the | |
| Congress—The Mahratta Shoe—Meeting breaks up in disorder—Free | |
| fight in the pavilion—Meeting of Convention | |
| of Moderates next day—Lajpat Rai on the platform—Meeting | |
| of Extremists—End of the Congress—Temporary | |
| unpopularity of the Moderate leaders | [233] |
CHAPTER XIV | |
| A CITY OF GOD | |
| Scene by the river at Benares—A pilgrim of the Ganges—How | |
| a man’s soul is absorbed into the universal soul—Whether | |
| the crowd desire such absorption—How indifference | |
| to this transitory life may be obtained—The benefit of | |
| symbolism even to the ignorant—The advantage of overcoming | |
| earthly desires—The example of Janaka—How far | |
| removed we of the common people are from it | [263] |
CHAPTER XV | |
| THE PATIENT EARTH | |
| Why an Indian official slept in the cold—Famine near | |
| Allahabad—Description of country—Wells and tanks—Sir | |
| John Hewett and relief—Sympathy of officials in famine—Test | |
| works—A state of famine—Wages and rations—Recruiting | |
| stations—Roads and dams as relief works—How | |
| dams are made—How the people lived—Sir John Hewett on | |
| numbers and loss—Financial Statement on the year’s famine—General | |
| increase of prices—Probable increase of poverty | |
| in certain classes—Various reasons attributed—Comparison | |
| of peasants and town workpeople—Peasant incomes—Village | |
| labourers and artisans—Wages of Bombay mill-hands—Conditions | |
| of labour and housing—Village conditions—Ignorance | |
| and monotony—Burdens on the land | [270] |
CHAPTER XVI | |
| THE ARYA SAMAJ | |
| A Vedic service—The Samaj at Lahore—Its founder Dayananda—Growth | |
| and objects—Two divisions—Lajpat Rai’s | |
| connection with Samaj—His past history—Devotion to | |
| social and religious reform—Visit to England and America—Effect | |
| of Liberalism—Causes of neglect of India—He | |
| advocates self-reliance—Grievances of the Punjab—His | |
| deportation—Suspicion of Arya Samaj—Its avoidance of | |
| politics—The Gurukula near Hardwar—System of education—Isolated | |
| boyhood—Daily life—Study of Sanscrit—Method | |
| of teaching in India criticized—Cost of secondary | |
| education at boarding-schools | [291] |
CHAPTER XVII | |
| A FESTIVAL OF SPRING | |
| The palace at Baroda—Vasantha—Maharajah and Resident—Honours | |
| to the Empire—Dust of flowers—Life of a Native | |
| Ruler—Administration of Baroda—Alleged errors—Measures | |
| of reform—Social reform—The Maharani | [312] |
CHAPTER XVIII | |
| SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION | |
| Our government of India—Danger of withdrawal to ourselves | |
| and India—Our probable successor if we withdrew—Signs of | |
| new spirit in India—Our contributions to new spirit—External | |
| causes of unrest—Suspicions of our justice and benevolence—How | |
| far inconsiderate—Plague, famine, and the drain of | |
| money—Where the Congress movement has failed—Our | |
| disregard of grievances has encouraged new methods—Extension | |
| of Swadeshi principle to all sides of life—The line | |
| of most resistance—To check “moral poverty”—But hopes | |
| of Moderate policy continue—Immediate reforms demanded—Change | |
| of heart essential but slow—Crisis calls for generous | |
| and definite reform—New spirit in India cannot be checked—Our | |
| own reputation for freedom at stake | [320] |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| TO FACE PAGE | |
| Contemplation | [Frontispiece] |
| A Street in Poona | [32] |
| Mr. Gokhale | [34] |
| A Health Camp | [50] |
| In a Village | [50] |
| A Village Street | [58] |
| A Street in Plague | [58] |
| Mr. Tilak | [64] |
| The Ryot’s Home | [92] |
| Carrying Leaves for Fuel | [92] |
| On the Causeway | [96] |
| A Village Headman | [96] |
| A Temple Tank, Madras | [102] |
| A Servant of Vishnu | [106] |
| The End of Man | [108] |
| Offerings to the Dead | [108] |
| Dance of High Caste Girls in Madras | [122] |
| Hunger | [136] |
| My Elephant | [140] |
| A Village Crowd | [140] |
| The Temple of Equality | [152] |
| On the Brahmaputra | [160] |
| A Temple Tank | [186] |
| A Temple of Shiva | [186] |
| A Temple of Sikhs | [200] |
| A Mohammedan Mosque | [200] |
| The Kalighat | [206] |
| Pilgrims to Kali | [206] |
| Entrance to the Pandal at Surat | [258] |
| The Line of Retreat | [258] |
| The Sacred River | [262] |
| On the Bank | [264] |
| The Burning-place | [266] |
| The River Walls | [266] |
| A Place of Prayer | [268] |
| A Bullock Well | [272] |
| Going to Work | [274] |
| Relief Shelters | [274] |
| On the Relief Works | [276] |
| Swadeshi Weavers in Bombay and Madras | [284] |
| Workmen’s Dwellings, Bombay | [286] |
| Bombay Mill-hands | [288] |
| Lala Lajpat Rai | [296] |
| An Arya Samaj Teacher | [304] |
| A Street in Hardwar | [306] |
| Hardwar Strand | [306] |
| In the Gurukula | [310] |
| Making Yarn | [318] |
| A Village Panchayat | [318] |
| A Deserted City | [334] |
THE NEW SPIRIT IN INDIA
INTRODUCTION
Summary of Recent Events
Although politics are not the only subject of this book, it may be of assistance if I summarize very briefly the chief political events of the few years preceding the winter of 1907-8 when I was in India.