Sussex, Painted by Wilfrid Ball

by Hilaire Belloc

CHICHESTER HARBOUR

must take care to do this on an ebb-tide, for it is impossible to get through against the flood.

Even for quite small vessels the entry of Chichester Harbour is navigable only at high tide, but the exploration of it is delightful, whether one runs up Fishbourne Creek (which lands one near to Chichester) or, leaving this on the right, one goes straight on to the wharf of Bosham. There is, unfortunately, no river running from these creeks up into the county, but they form an excellent and sheltered mooring from which to start upon sails into the Solent just to hand.

This method of learning the county, the entry from the sea, is the most natural, the most historic, and the most germane to the nature of Sussex. Every port one enters is the port of Rape, every river up which one’s dinghy takes one is the river along which the penetration of the county has proceeded in past times, and one upon which its principal market-towns will be found. So Chichester, Arundel, Steyning, Lewes, can be reached, and with more difficulty towns farther up the country. The whole manner in which Sussex has grown up is impressed upon the man who enters it from the Channel.

Unfortunately it is the least familiar and perhaps least easy of all the ways in which the county may be approached, but those who care to try the experiment will find themselves well repaid for the exertion the method involves, especially as they explore one of those valleys which lead through the Downs and reveal section by section, as one goes up stream, every distinctive portion and contrast of the countryside, until the heart of the Weald is reached, and the traveller can see from his boat, as the pirate of the fifth century saw from a wider and more marshy stream, the long, straight escarpment of the hills closing the horizon and defining the land to which he was to give his language and his tribal name.

INDEX

[A], [B], [C], [D], [E], [F], [G], [H], [I], [J], [K], [L], [M], [N], [O], [P], [R], [S], [T], [U], [V], [W], [Y]

Adur, River, [39], [40]
Aella, legend of, [60]
Alfordean Bridge, on Stane Street, [58]
Amberley, antiquity of, [111]
goes back to eighth century, [105]
on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
position on Arun, [36], [37]
Amberley Castle, [110]
Anderida, legend of fall of, [60-61]
upon site of Pevensey, [53]
Angerming, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Arun, maritime portion of, [38]
Arun River, [35], [36]
its advantages for sailing and boating, [186-188]
Arundel, absence of Roman relics in, [53]
early fortification of, [66]
original site of bridge of, [109]
Rape of. See Rape of Arundel river valley of, [37]
town of, probable great antiquity of, [107-109]
Arundel Castle, new cut-flint work in, [32]
view from river, [37], [38]
Ashburnham, family of, [126]
Ashington, family of, [14]
Bar, absence of, at mouth of Ouse, [41]
Bar, at mouth of Adur, [39]
Barlavington, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Barnham, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Bartelotts of Stopham, [127]
Battle, Monastery of, [119]
position of, [44]
Battle of Hastings, [71-74]
Beach, value of to early navigators, [4]
Beachy Head, [179]
difficulties of sailing under, [183], [184]
Beeding, mentioned in Alfred’s will, [101]
“Belts” for principal longitudinal divisions of Sussex, [10], [11]
Bexhill, mentioned in Doomsday, [92]
Bignor, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
example of sand formation in the Weald, [14]
on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
Roman pavement of, on Stane Street, [55]
Billingshurst, [113]
on Stane Street, [58]
Binsted, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Bishopric, first Sussex, founded, [64]
Blunt, family of, [127], [133], 134 [191]
Bosham, mentioned in Doomsday, [116]
Boundaries of Sussex, east and west, [5]
Boundary, northern, of Sussex, nature of, [8]
Boxgrove, Monastery of, arises on the Roman Road, [118]
on Stane Street, [55]
Bramber, a parliamentary borough, [101]
Bramber Castle, [99-100]
continuity of possession of, [100]
example of flint building, [31]
early fortification of, [66]
on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
Braose, first overlord of Rape of Bramber, [99]
Brighton, importance of in Rape of Lewes, [83]
modern development of, [137], [138]
British Road under Downs, [15]
Buckman’s Farm, on Stane Street, [58]
Burford Bridge, on Stane Street, [54]
Burpham, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
on Arun, [37]
Burrell, first Member for Rape of Bramber, [103], [104]
Burton, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
example of sand formation in the Weald, [14]
Bury, on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
example of sand formation in the Weald, [14]
mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Buttolphs, mentioned in Doomsday, [101]
position on Adur, [39]
Buxted, late development of, [91]
Canals from Arun, disused, [187], [188]
Castle Arundel, new cut-flint work in, [32]
at Arundel, [37], [38]
Bramber, example of flint building, [31]
Castles, secondary, of Sussex, [98], [99]
Chanctonbury Ring, [24], [176]
Chichester Harbour, difficulty of entry for small craft, [188], [189]
marsh bounding Sussex to west, [5]
Chichester, principal town of coastal plain, [11]
site of capital of the Regni, [48]
Christian religion destroyed by invasions, [62], [63]
Climping, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Coastal Plain, [11], [12]
character of landscape of, [154], [155]
track of journey along, [180]
Coast, Sussex, cruising along, [181-190]
Cobden’s Farm, upon belt of loam under the Downs, [14]
Cocking, mentioned in Doomsday, [116]
Cold Harbour on Stane Street, [55]
Combe, parish of, position on Adur, [39]
Coombes, mentioned in Doomsday, [101]
Counties, English, their characteristics, [1], [2]
Crowborough, disfigurement of, [147]
Crowhurst, mentioned in Doomsday, [92]
Cuckfield, date of origin of, [84]
Manor of, history of, [128]
Cuckmere River, [41]
Dawtreys of Petworth, [126]
De Albinis, successors to Montgomerys, [106]
Devil’s Dyke, [177]
Dew pans on Downs, [25]
Doomsday, survey of Lewes Rape, [81-84]
Dorking Churchyard, on Stane Street, [54]
Downs, difficulty of building on, [21]
earthworks on, [26], [27]
roads across, fewness of, [34]
system of dew pans, [25]
uninhabited, [19]
villages to south of, [29]
villages under escarpment of, [28]
woods of, [22], [23]
South, backbone of Sussex, [2]
contour of, [9]
direction of axis of, [10]
nature of, [17], [18], [19], [20], [21], [22], [23], [24]
see also South Downs
Duncton, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Eartham, Manor of, history of, [129]
Earthworks on Downs, [26], [27]
Eastbourne, [141]
Eastergate, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Ecclesiastical power in Rape of Chichester, [115], [116]
Edward the Confessor, importance of reign of, [68]
Egdean, example of sand formation in the Weald, [14]
English counties, their characteristics, [1], [2]
Felpham, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Feudalism, strength of, in Sussex, [78]
Firle Beacon, [179]
Fittleworth, its position on Western Rother, [36]
Fitz Alans, successors to the de Albinis, [106]
Five Oaks Green, on Stane Street, [58]
Flint, method of building with, [30], [31], [32]
Forest Ridge, [8], [11], [12]
Fortification, primitive, example of at Kithurst Hill, [175]
Frant, [90]
Fulcking, on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
Gainsford, family of, [126]
Godwin, a Sussex man, [68]
his estates in Sussex, [69]
Goring, family of, [126]
Goring, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Graffham, mentioned in Doomsday, [116]
example of sand formation in the Weald, [14]
Manor and history of, [129]
Gumber Corner, view from, [163-173]
Hailsham, mentioned in Doomsday, [91]
Halnecker Hill, on Stane Street, [55]
Harbours, nature of Sussex, [3]
Hardham, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Monastery of, arises on the Roman Road, [118]
Roman camp at, on Stane St., [56]
Hasting, the pirate, his raid, [66], [93]
Hastings, Battle of, [71-74]
Castle of, [93-97]
example of value of a beach, [4]
importance of beach to early shipping, [93-95]
name of, [93]
origins of, [93-97]
Rape of. See Rape of Hastings
Hastings Bay, method of crossing, [183]
“Hastings Plain,” site of Battle of Hastings, [71]
Hayward’s Heath, [13]
Henfield, mentioned in Doomsday, [101]
Heyshott, example of sand formation in the Weald, [14]
mentioned as Percy Land, [117]
Highden, original home of the Gorings, [176]
Horsham, pronunciation of name of, [150]
rises in thirteenth century, [101], [102]
Houghton, crossing of Arun at, [111], [112]
Houghton Forest, [113]
Howards, successors to Albinis, [106]
successors to Mowbrays, [100], [101]
Hurstpierpoint, survey of Rape of Lewes, [83]
Invasion, Saxon, of Sussex, [60-64]
Iron industry, importance of to Rape of Pevensey, [90]
Iron industry of Weald, antiquity of, [59]
Juniper Hall, on Stane Street, [54]
Keymer, survey of Rape of Lewes, [83]
Kithurst Hill, [175]
Knepp Castle, [104]
Lancing, mentioned in Doomsday, [101]
Landscapes of Sussex, [150-155]
Lavington, example of sand formation in the Weald, [14]
on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
Lewes, early fortification of, [66]
importance of in Saxon times, [67]
Norman Castle in, [81]
position of on Ouse, [41]
Rape of (see also Rape of Lewes), [79-85]
site of Battle of, [178]
town, characteristics of, [80]
Linch Down, [162]
Littlehampton, at mouth of Arun, [38]
difficulty of entry, and outside anchorage described, [185], [186]
Loam, belt of, villages upon, [14]
Looe Stream, [65]
Madehurst, Manor of, history of, [129]
Marshes bounding Sussex to east and west, [5]
destruction of Roman roads in, [6]
Mayfield, first of Sussex line of ecclesiastical palaces, [90]
Midhurst, its position on Western Rother, [36]
late development of, [117]
Monasteries of Sussex, [117-119]
Montgomerys, first overlords of Rape of Arundel, [106]
Morton, first overlord of Rape of Pevensey, [87]
Mount Caburn, example of prehistoric fortification, [91]
Mowbrays, successors to Braose, [100]
Nature of Sussex Harbours, [3]
Newhaven Harbour, advantages and disadvantages of, for small craft, [184]
Newhaven, position at mouth of Ouse, [41]
Newtimber, Manor of, history of, [131]
Norman Conquest in Sussex, [69-74]
Northchapel, [113]
Northern boundary of Sussex, nature of, [8]
Northstoke on Arun, [37]
Ockley (in Surrey), on Stane Street, [54]
Ouse, river, [40], [41]
Owers Lightship, [65]
Oxenbridge, family of, [126]
Palmers of Angerming, [126]
Parham, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Peasantry of Sussex, character of, [144], [148]
Petworth, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Pevensey, ancient geographical position of, [89]
Celtic derivation of the name, [87]
decline of, [89], [90]
Level, termination of the Wealdon flats on the sea, [11]
Rape of, see Rape of Pevensey
Roman remains in, [88]
site of Anderida, [53]
William the Conqueror lands there, [71]
Pine trees, comparatively recent in Sussex, [153-154]
Place names, Sussex, [61]
of Sussex, pronunciation of, [149], [150]
Plain, Coastal, see Coastal
Poynings, on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
Prehistory of Sussex unknown, [47]
Pulborough, its position on Arun, [36]
mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Pulborough Bridge, point where Stane Street crossed the Arun, [57]
Rackham Hill, [175]
Rape of Arundel, [104-113]
Arundel, Montgomerys first overlords of, [106]
Bramber, [99-104]
Rape of Bramber, Braose first overlord of, [99]
Chichester, [113-117]
Hastings, [91-99]
Lewes, growth of, [79-85]
its central character, [85]
original harbour of, [82]
Lewes, William of Warren first overlord of, [82]
Pevensey, [87-91]
Pevensey, importance of iron industry, [90]
Pevensey, Morton first overlord of, [87]
Pevensey, shape of, [86]
Rapes, divisions of Sussex, [77]
number and origin of, [78]
Regni, Sussex tribe, [48]
Ridge, forest, [8]
Rings of woods on Downs, [24]
Rivers of Sussex, [3], [35-44]
give rise to earliest settlements, [4]
River valley, nature of Sussex, [42]
River valleys of Sussex, not used by main roads, [21], [22]
Robertsbridge, [91]
Monastery of, [118]
position of, on Rother, [44]
Roman basis of Sussex civilisation, [48-59]
camp at Hardham, on Stane Street, [56]
fortifications at Alfordean Bridge, [58]
Road, Stane Street, crossing Arun, [36]
Road, Stane Street, fully described, [54-58]
Roads destroyed in marshes, [6]
Roman’s Wood, on Stane Street, [58]
Rother, river of, [43], [44]
Valley of, marshes in, bound Sussex eastward, [5]
Western, [35]
Rotherfield, antiquity of, [90]
Rottingdean, in Doomsday survey of Rape of Lewes, [83]
modern disfigurement of, [139]
Rusper, late mention of, [102]
Rye, antiquity and original conditions of, [92]
harbour of, difficulty of entry, [182]
Saddlescombe, [177]
Saint Wilfrid, story of, [64]
Sand formations in the Weald, [13]
Saxon invasions of Sussex, [60-64]
See of Selsea, founded, [64]
Senlac, discussion of the name, [72]
Shelleys, family of, [127], [132], [133]
Shipley, developed in twelfth century, [101]
Shoreham Harbour, entry of for small craft, described, [185]
Shoreham, Old, position on Adur, [39]
rise and decline of, [102-103]
Singleton, in Doomsday, [116]
Manor of, history of, [130]
Slinfold, [113]
South Downs, backbone of Sussex, [3]
contour of, [9]
journey along crest of described, [161-180]
Southstoke on Arun, [37]
Squires, rise of the power of, and disintegration of feudal system, [119-125]
St. Denis, monastery of, original lords of Rotherfield, [90]
“St. George and the Dragon” Inn at Houghton, [112]
St. Leonard’s Forest, originallv Braose Land, [102]
Stane Street, appearance of Gumber Corner, [171], [172]
Roman road, crossing Arun, [36]
fully described, [54-58]
Stenes, southern valleys of Downs, [23]
Steyning, on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
Stopham, junction of Western Rother and Arun, [35]
mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Storrington, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
Strickland, family of, [126]
Sussex, bounded by the Weald, [2]
character of peasant in, [144]
created from the sea, [2]
east, gradual disfigurement of, [146]
epithet “Scilly” applied to, [117]
exploration of east and west, [159-161]
feudalism, strength of, [78]
general plan of, [45], [46]
grouped round the South Downs, [2]
isolation in prehistoric times, [47]
landscapes of, [150-155]
natural boundaries of, east and west, [5]
northern boundary of, nature of, [8]
peasant, character of, [148]
peculiar dialect of, somewhat exaggerated, [143]
place names, [51]
place names, pronunciation of, [149], [150]
rivers, [3], [35-44]
rivers of, determined the first settlements, [4]
sharp division in east and west, [144]
towns developed later according to distance from sea, [7]
Sutton, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Thatch, excellence of in Sussex, [135]
Theakham, [14]
Tortington, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Monastery of, [119]
Towns, Sussex, developed later according to distance from sea, [7]
Tumuli above Duncton Hill, [27]
on Downs, [27]
Uckfield, late development of, [91]
Upper Waltham, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Valleys, to south of Downs, called stenes, [23]
Villages to south of Downs, [29]
under escarpment of Downs, [29]
Walberton, mentioned in Doomsday, [105]
Warren, the family of overlords of Rape of Lewes, [79]
Warren, William of, first overlord of Rape of Lewes, [82]
Washington, on old British trackway under the Downs, [15]
pass over Downs at, [176]
Watering-places, growth of, [136-142]
Weald and parishes, shape of, [8]
bounding Sussex to the north, [2]
forest track through, present itinerary of described, [156-159]
general character of, [12], [13]
its military function at Norman Conquest, [73-76]
West Dean House, example of flint building, [32]
West Hampnet, on Stane Street, [54]
Wilfrid, Saint, story of, [64]
Willingdon Hill, [179]
Winchelsea, antiquity of and original conditions of, [92]
Wolstonbury Hill, [177]
Woods of the Downs, [22], [23]
Worth, last stage of development of Rape of Lewes, [84]
Yapton, [11]

THE END
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