Fig. III.—Modern Albe
If it is a cut edge which is to be joined to another in this manner, each piece of stuff is hemmed separately.
The work is begun upon one hem as a foundation, and when finished is sewn closely on to the other.
For the first row * make two tiny buttonhole stitches into the edge of the hem (or of the selvedge if there is no hem). Then leave a small space, equal to the room taken up by the two buttonhole stitches; then two more stitches, then leave a space of about ⅜ inch, carrying the cotton straight along—repeat from * till the first row is done, all along the edge.
Turn the work over to the other side, or fasten off thread and begin at the same end as at first: by turning it over the same effect is attained—viz. working from left to right for each row, which keeps the work even.
For the second row the threads which stretch across the spaces of ⅜ inch are covered with fine buttonholing, and two stitches are put into each of the tiny spaces left for them in the first row.
When the end of the second row is reached the work should be turned over, as before, and the third row done exactly the same as the first, except that the pairs of stitches are worked into the little spaces caused by going from the bar to the middle of the pairs of stitches instead of into the stuff: c on Illustration IV. shows this very much enlarged; a and b are the same size as the work on the old albe. After the first row, which is worked into the linen, it is better to use a blunt needle. The button-hole-stitches should be drawn up tightly over the thread throughout the work; in the illustration of the detail they are not drawn tightly enough for the real work.
From three to five bars are enough for this pattern. A great number of different ones can be arranged with a little ingenuity, variation being brought about by differing the proportions of buttonhole ‘filling,’ bars and spaces.
