The Surplice, which from very early times seems to have formed part of the choir habit of clergy and other ministers alike, is very similar to the albe, except that, being an outer instead of an under vestment, the sleeves are long and full, and also in consequence of being worn over a cassock, an albe, or a ‘pellice’[15] it has become somewhat shorter in the skirt; but there are, from the time of Edward the Confessor onward, numerous canons, laws, and directions always ordering the surplice to be long enough to reach down to the heels. The albe, surplice, and rochet are very much alike; in the old documents it is often difficult to determine which of the three is meant, there being so many names for the same thing, and both names and uses almost interchangeable. But in the present day we confine the term albe to the one with somewhat tight-fitting sleeves, surplice to the one with long flowing sleeves, and rochet to the one without any, or with full ones gathered into a band at the wrist. Albes were at one time occasionally made of silk, and sometimes were even coloured,[16] but I do not think surplices ever were, neither have they ever been much ornamented. Smocking at the gathers or an embroidered neck-band seems to have been the only decoration at all common. The rochet was and still is sometimes embroidered all round just above the hem.
The accompanying diagram (Illustration VIII.) shows how to cut a surplice like the one represented at Illustration VII.
The dimensions are very similar to those given by Dr. Rock, except that his is fuller in the skirt. If this is desired it can be done without any difficulty by merely adding another width of linen (placing the centre on the diagram 18 inches further to the right, and thus using two full widths instead of one).
It is better in this case to make the collar-band deeper, as it is difficult to get so many gathers into the 29 inches of circumference given here.
Fig. VII.—Modern Surplice
All the selvedge seams should be ‘whipped,’ ‘seamed,’ or ‘over-sewn’—three names for one and the same process. The diagonal seams or any with cut edges must be ‘run and felled.’
This pattern takes 6½ yards of linen, a yard wide; Dr. Rock’s would take 2½ yards more. His is more suitable for smocking; and where a deep collar-band is used it may be embroidered, preferably in white, though some of the old ones were done in red.
A priest’s surplice should measure at least 4½ yards round the bottom; those for choir men and boys are not usually so wide.
