We passed all the winter months at Onavoora, during which we had frequent heavy rains. Some of the storms were attended with violent gales, and disagreeably cold weather. About the 3d of May, an influenza made its appearance amongst the inhabitants of Oahoo, and in two days not a well native was any where to be seen. The market, from being well attended, was deserted. In a week, the distress was so general and so great, that it was feared the poor people would perish with hunger. I visited several families, not a member of which was able to help himself or others, and all were totally destitute of food. A great many of the people died, and amongst the rest two chiefs, one of whom was George Tamauri, a native of the Island of Atooi, who was educated in this country. The other was Cahaliha, next in affinity to the king. Scarcely any of the white people were affected. Not even those living on shore. In about ten days, the people from the country began to make their appearance in the market, the distress was greatly alleviated, and soon afterwards the general good health restored. At such times of suffering, the condition of these people is truly wretched. They have no floor to their huts but the hard-beaten ground from which their naked bodies are separated only by two or three thin mats, and during the rainy season the earth becomes perfectly saturated with water. Their huts are generally built in a very frail manner, and in a driving storm are not proof against the rain. This, alone, is sufficient to account for the thinly populated state of the islands, without charging the natives with the acts of inhumanity that have been ascribed to them by some people.
The harbour of Onavoora is formed by coral reefs, that extend upwards of a mile from the shore. The entrance to it is narrow and somewhat difficult. It affords water enough for a sloop of war. A pilot in and out of the harbour, is always employed. It is very secure, being quite land locked. The holding ground is good, and vessels may lay in safety close along side of the beach. The water is perfectly smooth in good weather, and the bottom and shores being nearly every where of soft mud, a vessel might be driven upon them in a gale without sustaining any material injury. The visits of the numerous whale ships has made Onavoora a place of considerable trade. All of them spend more or less money for their necessary refreshments, and when out of repair, their disbursements are frequently very considerable. For the supplies afforded by the natives, thousands of dollars are annually received by them, which they give in return for silk, cotton, calicoes, cloth, &c. Two or three stores, well stocked with a great variety of goods, are supported in Onavoora by this interchange of commodities; and, from the way in which the trade is conducted, there is but little doubt that the proprietors are rewarded with handsome profits. The sandal wood has become scarce upon the islands, from the large quantities formerly taken away by our traders, and does not now form a very lucrative or extensive article of commerce. Upon this article, some of our merchants are said to have made large sums of money in exchange for whole cargoes of goods, with the chiefs of the Sandwich Islands. It is related of Tamahamaha, that, after making a purchase of this kind, which he paid for in ship loads of sandal wood, brought from the mountains with great labour to himself and people, he has been known to load a number of canoes secretly at night, with fine broadcloths, and take them out to sea, where he sunk them with stones. His only reason for it was, that the possession of them would make his chiefs and people too luxurious and idle, and bringing sandal wood from the mountains to pay for more, would give them employment. A doubtful policy, certainly, if the statement be true. Be this as it may, himself and successor have entailed upon their descendants a national debt of several hundred thousands of dollars, now due to our merchants, which they will not soon be able to liquidate.
On the 11th of May, after long anticipating our much wished for departure, we got underway, and saluting the fort as we passed it with twenty-one guns, stood out to sea and shaped our course for Chili. Nothing material transpired from the time of our sailing until the 7th of June, when standing along with a fresh trade, and the night dark and squally, at 10 P.M., the lookout-ahead reported land close aboard. We tacked and lay to for the night, to survey our newly discovered island on the following morning. At daylight, it bore S.S.W., about six miles from us, and appeared in three small hummocs, covered thickly with trees and bushes, every where bounded by a coral reef and heavy surf. We hesitated for some time whether we should land, apprehending that it would be attended with too much risk, merely for the gratification of curiosity; but this feeling operated so powerfully upon us, that there was no resisting the desire to land where no one had ever been before. Accordingly, two boats were sent off, and watching a favourable opportunity passed through the surf in safety, and landed on the coral bank where they were left high and dry by the receding wave. It was on the lee side of the island, and a coral reef stretched off about fifty or a hundred yards from the shore, full of holes, and almost dry at low water. In the holes we sought for fish, as at Caroline Island, but found very few. On traversing the island, we could find no fruit or vegetable of any description except bup. In most places it was covered with trees and bushes of a thick growth, almost impenetrable. In the bushes we found a great many tropical birds setting, so tame that we could take them off of their nests with our hands, and in getting upon the weather side of the island where there was a clear space, we found a species of small gull, so numerous, that when they rose from the ground at our approach, they appeared to form almost a compact mass. The sand was literally covered with their eggs, which, upon examination, proved to be unfit for use, with few exceptions. The birds flew and hovered so near to us that we caught several of them with our hands. After amusing ourselves a little while with the novel spectacle of such numbers of birds so very tame, we collected all the old eggs within a small space, and in less than twenty minutes after it had been thus cleared, it was again covered with fresh eggs by the birds that were constantly lighting. We might, in a few hours, have loaded our boats with them. When we returned to our boats to go on board, the tide had risen, and with it the surf had increased to an alarming degree. At first, we held a consultation whether we should attempt to pass through it or remain until it should again subside with the falling of the tide; but the day was far advanced, and the appearance of the weather such, as in all probability would render our situation extremely painful, there being every prospect of an increase of wind. We therefore determined to put our fortune to the test, and were not a little discouraged when on one of the boats attempting the surf was thrown back by the second roller that she encountered with the utmost violence, upsetting her, and scattering the people in different directions, some of them escaping with their lives with the greatest difficulty. Notwithstanding the ill success of our first attempt, we determined on a second, rather than risk the consequences of longer delay. Embracing a favourable opportunity where the surf appeared least violent, we put off, and passed through it in safety without further accident.
The island was little more than a mile long, and from a hundred yards to a quarter of a mile wide. It was every where very low. By a meridian observation, we placed the north-west end of it in latitude south 21 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude by chronometer 154 degrees 54 minutes west. In compliment to the commander of our squadron in the Pacific Ocean, we called it Hull's Island. It may be comprehended within the group of Society Islands.
In the afternoon, June the 4th, we made sail; and on the following day at half-past 6 o'clock, A.M. discovered the island of Ramitaria, on the lee bow, about eight leagues from us. This island was not laid down in any of our charts, having been discovered only three or four years before; but we had seen a gentlemen who had stopped there, and it was included in our list of islands. On approaching it we were pleased to find that it differed from many of the islands we had visited, being of a moderate elevation. It is about three miles long and one or two wide. We ran nearly round it before we found a place to land, the surf breaking high every where, and the shores bounded by large rocks of coral. At last, we came to the principal settlement, which was situated close to the shore, where a large white-washed house indicated the former visits and influences of the missionaries. The people, to the number of one or two hundred, were assembled on the beach inviting us to land. Here, also, was a considerable surf and some coral rocks, which made the landing not altogether free from difficulty. When the boat came near the shore and while she was yet shooting rapidly through the surf, the natives, who had already advanced to meet us, laid hold as many as could get round her, and with loud shouting, carried us high upon the beach. At this somewhat unexpected reception, the boat's crew instinctively seized their pistols, thinking at first, that the natives were hostile in their disposition towards us. It was but a momentery panic which passed away with the kind salutations we immediately afterwards received. When I enquired for the chief, a young man was pointed out to me in the crowd, distinguished from the rest by an old hat on his head, that he had obtained from some former visiter. He seemed not to be treated with the least respect by the people, who jostled him in the crowd with the most perfect carelessness. Scarcely had I addressed him, when a stout native came up with an air of some importance, and saluting me, told me in the language of the Society Islands, that he was the missionary. Upon his approach, the chief immediately shrunk back into the crowd. He called to him a Malay, who was not far off, and bade him ask what we wanted. The Malay, whose name was Manoo, spoke English very well, which was a source of great satisfaction to us, as we could thereby communicate our wants freely, and it introduced us at once to each others' acquaintance. I explained to Manoo that we were in want of water and such refreshments as the island might afford. He immediately proceeded in company with the missionary to show me where water was to be obtained. We passed through a forest of very large trees over a plain that extended more than half a mile, when we came to a marsh of reeds and rank grass, where there was from one to two feet of water, covering an area of two or three acres. This would not answer our purpose as the water was not very good, and its distance from the place of embarkation rendered it too laborious an undertaking to water the vessel from it. When I had remarked this to Manoo and the missionary, they replied that there was better water, but it was still more distant. I suffered them to conduct me to it, and we took a footpath over rising ground, and through another delightful forest of bread-fruit and other wide-spreading trees, passing many fine tarrow patches, and at the distance of half a mile from the marsh, we came to a spring of excellent water. Manoo and the missionary both expressed a great deal of disappointment when I spoke in terms of disapprobation of this also as a watering-place—it being altogether too far from the shore. On our return from the spring, we took a different footpath from that by which we came, and ascended to a more elevated part of the island to see the work of the missionary, as it was called by Manoo. This consisted of two or three enclosures by means of stakes, in the midst of the forest, where the trees had been cut down for several acres, which was cleared and planted with sweet potatoes and tobacco. The enclosures were made, and all the labour of clearing the forest was done, as Manoo remarked, by such of the wicked and disobedient, as had resisted the authority and ordinances of the white missionary during his residence on the island some months previous. Since then, the white missionary had returned to Otaheite, and sent this native missionary, who belonged to that island, to represent him in his absence. Leaving the enclosures of tobacco and sweet potatoes, we came into a thicket where the trees were overrun with the vines of the yam, growing wild and covered with beautiful blue flowers that gave a picturesque appearance to the forest, and filled it with their fragrance. We passed five or six stone columns that had been sixty or seventy feet high, and twenty or thirty in circumference. They were in a dilapidated state, having in part been thrown down by order of the missionaries. Manoo told me that they were monuments erected in honour of the Indian god. Several of these ruins were standing by the side of an old burial-place in the edge of the woods near the shore. Each of the graves were neatly enclosed with a wall of stone. When we returned to the village, I was taken to a large frame building called the missionary house, where the missionary had prepared a roasted pig and some tarrow, for our dinner. He designed to entertain me after the manner of the whites, and with this view, had placed our repast on a large coarse table that stood in the middle of the room with benches round it. When we were seated, he unlocked a chest and took from it a plate for each of us, and a knife and fork, all of which were extremely dirty, and the knives and forks quite covered with rust. This, however, he did not seem to remark, although he evidently wished me to think that he knew how to be polite, after the fashion of my country people. He acquitted himself pretty well, to his own satisfaction, until he attempted to use the knife and fork—but that was altogether too much for him. After making several trials in vain to cut his meat, he asked me to assist him; and finally, before he had half finished his dinner, laid down his clumsy instruments and used his fingers. The chief, and as many of the natives as could get into the room came round us, but none of them were invited to partake with the missionary and myself, except Manoo, whilst the hungry crowd stood looking wistfully at us.
Soon after we had finished our dinner, the captain and several of the officers landed, and we exchanged several articles with the natives for their pigs, yams, &c. The following day was their Sabbath and our Saturday, and they insisted that we should remain until Monday, before any exchange of commodities took place. When, however, we declared our determination to depart that evening, they began collecting whatever might be acceptable to us. Hogs of various sizes, were brought to the beach in great numbers. Needles, jack-knives, and old clothes, were our articles of traffic, than which we could have offered them nothing more valuable. By sundown, we had collected from thirty to forty hogs, and a good supply of yams. In a few hours more, we might have obtained twice as many upon the same terms.
Towards the close of the day, when the missionary felt assured that it was our determination to depart, he asked if I was a doctor, or had any skill in medicine; and, although I replied in the negative, insisted upon my going to his house to see, and prescribe for his wife, who, he told me, was extremely ill. Upon entering his hut, we found her laying on a mat on the floor; and notwithstanding the weather was oppressively warm, she was covered over with a great many pieces of the tappa cloth, head and all, and perspiring most profusely. The missionary, with great gravity, but most unceremoniously, removed all the covering, and pointed out to me her infirmity, which was nothing more than a common bile, with which she seemed to be suffering considerable pain. I declined prescribing, although repeatedly requested to do so; and at sun-down, we embarked and made sail. Had it been convenient for us to remain two days longer at Ramitarias, we could have obtained an abundant supply of whatever the island produced, for a very trifling consideration; but although there was anchorage, it was unsheltered, and too near the shore for us to ride in safety.
At six, P.M. on the 10th of June, we took our departure from Ramitarias; and at day-light, on the 13th, made the Island of Toubouai, bearing to the northward and eastward, about eight leagues from us. In getting in with the S.W. part of the island, we found an extensive reef, upon which the surf was breaking with great violence. We hauled round to the east side, passing two small uninhabited islands, but there was not the slightest appearance of a landing-place, the surf breaking heavily as far as we could see. At four, P.M. we anchored on the north side, in seven fathoms water, and sent boats in search of the harbour, along the west shore. In the evening, they returned, having found it, and on the following morning, we got underway, and beat up for it. When we had advanced near the opening, through the coral reefs that extend from the shore several miles, a Mr. Strong, an American, came on board, and piloted us in through a difficult passage. The channel was narrow, and very crooked; but we had not less than three and a half fathoms water. Our anchorage was within a coral reef, about a mile from the shore, in four and a half fathoms. On the day previous to entering the harbour, we discovered that the head of our mainmast was decayed, and badly sprung. In this situation, we congratulated ourselves in having found a secure harbour, where the water was tolerably smooth, which was very essential in fixing the mast securely.
Nearly all the inhabitants of Toubouai, consisting of about two hundred, were living on the side of the island where we were anchored, in two different settlements. One of them was the residence of two Otaheite missionaries, who governed in spiritual and temporal affairs; and at the other, was the residence of the king, who, since the coming of the missionaries, retained but a small share of the power that formerly appertained to his station. He lived on apparently good terms with the missionaries, fearing their influence with the people, but secretly declaring his aversion to them. He was the more afraid of offending them, as there was a living example of their displeasure constantly before him, in the person of one who had formerly exercised the regal authority in the missionary village, of which they had divested him for disobedience, and compelled him to live in the condition of a common private person. Soon after the arrival of the missionaries, the people became divided into two parties, one of which advocated matrimony, and the other the unrestrained indulgence which is practised in a state of nature. The first, called themselves the missionary party; the latter, the party of the Tutiori. After a long struggle for the ascendency, the Tutiories took up arms and retired from the habitable part of the island, declaring themselves independent of the missionaries. They remained for several days undisturbed in their disobedience, when a party was sent to bring them to terms. The Tutiories at first retreated, but finally made a stand, and after a slight show of resistance, submitted, promising to go home and live in the observance of the missionary precepts. The dethroned king, was at the head of the Tutiories.
At the lower village, as it was called by us, where the king lived, was a party of our countrymen, who had been there for a number of months building a vessel. They had completed the frame and commenced planking, when, unfortunately, a quarrel arose between them and the people of the missionary village, which terminated in open hostility, and the loss of several lives. One of the white men only, was killed. Scarcely had they made peace with the natives, when they quarrelled among themselves, and nearly half of their number (four or five) discontinued their work, and waited only for an opportunity to leave the island. This mutinous disposition of a few, paralized the efforts of the whole party, and it was probable from appearances, that the labour they had bestowed with so much effect, would be entirely lost to themselves and their employer, Captain Dana of Massachusetts, whom we had seen at Oahoo.