The bay of the Typees was rather smaller than that of the Happah tribe. They live principally upon the side of a mountain that rises gently from the shore. The number of the tribe appeared to be about the same as that of the Happahs. Their houses are situated in circular chains of villages, rising one above the other, from the base to near the top of the mountain, where it terminates in rude and uninhabitable cliffs. Groves and clumps of cocoa-nut, and bread-fruit trees are every where interspersed with the dwellings, and the mind of the observer being impressed with the idea of their usefulness to the natives, gives a double effect to the beautiful landscape adorned by their waving tops and broad green leaves. We had several occasions to remark the inveterate dislike that the Typees and Happahs entertained towards each other.
On the morning after our arrival, the sailing-master went on shore in the Happah valley to obtain an altitude of the sun by the artificial horizon He was shy of the natives, as we all were at first, and apprehending that some of them might approach him with a hostile intention, while his back was turned towards them, and having heard that they held in great reverence a place said to be Tabooed, or consecrated, he made a circle round his place observation, and told the natives, who had followed him in great numbers, that the space within the circle was Tabooed. They stared at him in silence and stood back from it; but by and by, when he was intently engaged in getting his altitude, one of the natives, supposing that he was employed in some plan (to him incomprehensible) to destroy the Typees, as he turned the face of his sextant in that direction, crawled up gently behind the sailing-master, without being perceived by him, and suddenly tapping him two or three times on the shoulder, exclaimed with great energy, "Mattee, mattee, Typee!" It may readily be supposed that his imagination, which was very much excited before, was not soothed by this salutation. He turned upon the native, expressing in look and manner his consternation and displeasure, which was only met by the delighted Indian with a repetition of "Mattee, mattee, Typee!"
On the morning of the 25th, I went on shore, in company with several of the officers, to indulge our curiosity and ramble about the valley. We were soon surrounded by a group of natives, who followed us wherever we went. Our first object was to visit the chief of the valley, whose residence we found at the distance of two or three hundred yards from the shore. It was a plain, oblong hut, thirty by twenty feet. Its simple structure was such as is first suggested to the untutored mind—a few poles laid over crotches, upon which was framed a triangular roof, and the whole thatched with palm or cocoa-nut leaves. When we entered this regal hut we found the chief seated near one end of it, who barely condescended to notice us as we approached to make our salutations. We were not prepared for so rude a reception and felt somewhat mortified to find a chief of his distinguished rank so totally destitute of courtesy. We thought at least that he would have risen from his sitting posture, and expected more from him than our after experience taught us we had a right to look for from people in a state of nature. The only furniture in the hut was a few coarse mats. At one side of it five muskets, highly polished, were arranged one above the other, over which hung two kegs of powder sewed up in canvass, and near them a few long spears and a war conch, ornamented with human hair. We made ourselves as much at home as if we had received a more cordial welcome, and indulged our curiosity in examining whatever we saw, when suddenly the chief rose and his silence and gravity were at once explained. We had remarked that he had an uncommonly large black robe thrown over him, but without the least suspicion that it covered any one else than himself. He suddenly threw it aside as we came near him and there stood his wife, a girl about eighteen years of age, who had just finished making her toilet. He pointed to her with a look of satisfaction, and uttered "Motake," a word we afterwards learned, signified very good, or very well. Although she was naturally a pretty girl, she had made herself a hideous looking object. She had smeared her face all over with a coarse yellow paint, upon which was drawn streaks of black and green, than which nothing could have appeared more disgusting. She assumed a manner and look of affectation, such as may often have been observed in some self-approving beauty, who, conscious of her charms, feels that she is an object of admiration to all around her. When I expressed my disapprobation of her style of ornament, she stared at me with a look of surprise, which seemed to ask what I was saying. I soon gave both her and the chief to understand, by signs; after which they seemed not so well pleased with themselves or each other; and when I saw her again in the evening she was without any ornament, and looked all the better for it. While here, two grotesque figures came in and walked up to me with an austere look. They had a profusion of cock's feathers bound circularly round their brows, broad gorgets of wood ornamented with red berries round their necks, shell bracelets and ornaments of polished shell or bone tied above their ancles. Each held in his hand a fan of palmetto. After standing a few moments, keeping their eyes fixed upon me, they began jumping up and down and fanning themselves, applying both hands to the fan. My first feeling was surprise, mingled with curiosity, to know the cause of their strange appearance; but when they had several times repeated their exercise, the scene was altogether so ridiculous that I could not refrain from laughing. They soon afterwards, without even noticing the chief, turned and walked off. After leaving the hut of the chief, I visited a number of others, all of which were nearly alike. In one of them I saw two drums, the only instruments of music that I met with. The largest of them was a hollow log, from three to four feet long, and about a foot and a half in diameter, covered at both ends with shark skin. I asked the owner to play upon it, to which he readily consented, seeming highly flattered with the invitation. He accompanied his voice by thumping his hands and elbows on the drum-head; but the music that he made was intolerable. He beat, however, in very good time, and had evidently a high opinion of his performance.
In the course of our ramble, one of the officers told an Indian, who had joined us, by signs, that he wanted some cocoa-nuts. The good-natured fellow acquiesced without the least hesitation, and to our great astonishment, ran up a tree standing near us, with the activity of a squirrel. The tree was forty or fifty feet high, having but a slight inclination, yet the climbing seemed to occasion him scarcely any exertion. They do not press their bodies against the tree and hitch themselves up as is customary with us, which, in their naked condition, they could not do without injury. They press the bottoms of their feet against the tree, and clinging to it with their hands one above the other, ascend upon all-fours. It did not strike us with less surprise when he had thrown the cocoa-nuts down, to see with what facility he stripped off the hard husks without the aid of any thing but his teeth. For such a thing to have been accomplished by one of us would be found impossible. We afterwards remarked the same practise in other places, and at other islands. It was general except with the old men, who, unless they were very robust, used a sharp-pointed stick of hard wood to remove the husk.
They could not understand our practice of shaking hands. When we extended a hand to one of them as a mark of friendly salutation, they looked as though they would question what was meant by it; and from their manner seemed to think that our object was to feel their skin, which they would always reciprocate by raising up our sleeves and examining very minutely.
On the morning of the 29th of September, which was the last of our remaining in Comptroller's Bay, I made another excursion to the Typee Bay, taking with me the chief of the Happahs, who was very anxious to go. I wondered at this, as the tribes evinced so much dislike to each other; but afterwards saw, in my intercourse with the natives of the South Sea Islands, that uncivilized men are capable of as much duplicity towards each other as the educated and refined. When we had arrived within a hundred yards of the shore we were met by the chief with whom I had formed an acquaintance on the preceding day. He saluted the chief of the Happahs in a way that indicated a former acquaintance, but with a look and manner somewhat formal. The Typee chief immediately spoke to some one near him, who ran off and in a few minutes returned with a calabash filled with a preparation of the bread-fruit, upon which was poured a quantity of milk expressed from a cocoa-nut. This was offered by the Typee to the Happah chief, and I was also invited to partake of it. I tasted and found it very palatable. The two chiefs seated themselves in the stern of the boat, and made a hearty breakfast, using their fingers instead of spoons. Neither of them seemed very communicative, as only a few words passed between them at this interview. There was also in the boat a young woman belonging to the chief's family, for whom breakfast was brought in the shell of a cocoa-nut, and which was a preparation of the cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, sour and disagreeable to the taste. This, I was informed, is the food upon which the women almost entirely subsist, they being Tabooed from eating whatever is held in high estimation by the men. When the chiefs had finished their repast, the Typee pointed to his hogs, which he had again caused to be brought down upon the beach, saying that he wanted powder or guns for them, but unfortunately I had neither of these valuable articles with which to make an exchange with him, and he would consider nothing else as an equivalent. He sent for several old muskets that were very much out of order, and proposed to go on board with me and have them repaired, making me understand by signs, that he would in return present me with hogs. His anxiety was so great upon this subject, that I found it difficult to put a stop to his solicitations. In the mean time, however, I saw the schooner underway, and dismissing my Typee friends, pulled away for the Happah Bay. When I had approached within half a mile of the Happah village, the schooner was almost out of the harbour, and the chief observing that I was anxious to get on board, proposed jumping into the water and swimming home, to which I readily consented. He then stripped himself of his neck and ear ornaments, which consisted of two white pieces of polished shell and a carved image of bone, and presenting them to me as a token of his regard, plunged into the water, leaving me free to pursue my way to the vessel without the trouble of landing him. Most of the ornaments worn by these people, are of bone or shells, finely polished or rudely carved. They attach a number of them to a piece of cocoa-nut twine, and wear them around their necks, or wrists, or ancles, as may be most agreeable to the taste and fancy of the individuals. A more expensive and difficult ornament to obtain is a gorget. It is a piece of wood, semi-circular, about three inches wide, carved to fit the neck, covered with a beautiful red and black berry, and stuck on with a gum that oozes from the tree of the bread-fruit. On the hill that rises to the left of the valley, we planted a variety of seeds of fruit, vegetables and grain, but the natives of the valley are so totally ignorant of every thing that relates to agriculture, that it is not probable they will ever derive any advantage from them. Whilst we were in Happah Bay, the weather was clear and delightful. The temperature so regular that no change was felt in the transition from day to night.
On the 30th of September, we stood out of Comptroller's Bay, and ran down for Massachusetts' Bay, a place made familiar to our countrymen by Commodore Porter's long and interesting visit. The two points that form the harbours of Comptroller's and Massachusetts' Bays, are about seven miles distant from each other. At one, P.M., we were clear of the projecting southern point of Comptroller's Bay, and at three, P.M., anchored in eight fathoms water, within half a mile of the hill at the bottom of the bay, called Porter's Monument. Before we came to anchor, the water was covered with canoes, and people of both sexes and all ages swimming towards us, and as soon as the vessel lost her head way, they were crawling up on all sides like so many rats. They were not less delighted with our arrival than were the Happahs. Hundreds were collected on the shore, and all expressing their satisfaction by songs and dances. Amongst our first visitors, were two English sailors who had deserted from whale ships, and been long enough resident on the island to converse in the language of the natives. With them came also a native of Nooaheeva, and a native of Otaheite, both of whom had served a considerable time in whale ships, and could converse in broken English. We were therefore in no want of interpreters, and it seemed at once to introduce us to the confidence and friendship of our new acquaintances.
The harbour of Massachusetts' Bay is spacious and affords good anchorage for ships of the largest class. The only part of it, however, where landing is not attended with difficulty and some danger, is the east side, where there is a fine sand beach from a quarter to half a mile long, at one extremity of which empties a small rivulet of pure and excellent water into the bay. Landing may be effected at the watering-place beyond Porter's Monument, where there is a more considerable stream of fresh water, but it is always difficult, and when the surf is high, cannot fail to be dangerous. At this place we watered the Dolphin; but had to swim the casks to and from the shore, and altogether, it was a laborious undertaking. Along the east and north part of the bay there is a long reef that makes at a short distance from the shore, upon which a heavy surf is always breaking. In entering the bay, the whole habitable part of this section of the island is presented at one view, and forms a most grand and beautiful landscape. It is nearly semi-circular, and rises like an amphitheatre, in fruitful and populous circular ranges of hills, until at the distance of several miles, it terminates in a circumference of high and gloomy mountains, the tops of which resemble a massive wall. This rude and barren circle of mountain contrasts finely with the fertile ranges below, covered with their forests of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, and huts and villages every where scattered about through hill and dale. Nor is the extreme elevation without its interest and beauty. A number of little cataracts reflecting the rays of the sun and looking like sheets of liquid silver, break in upon the gloom of the sterile rock, adding brilliancy as they descend to the lively prospect below. After a shower, not less than fifty of these splendid falls of water may be seen, some of which are but just perceptible through the intervening space between hills and trees, producing an effect peculiarly agreeable. What is called Porter's Monument, is a round hill from fifty to an hundred feet high, situated at the east extremity of the bay. It was here that Commodore Porter had his Fort, not a vestige of which is now remaining. It is overrun with a wild luxuriant growth of vines and grass, and no trace of a footstep can be found. On one side of the hill, near its base, was stretched a bark line, which was attended by a man who calls himself Opotee, and who declares the hill beyond it to be tabooed. Upon one occasion, as I was approaching it, some natives called out "Taboo, Taboo!" but Opotee immediately expressed his willingness that I should pass, as I was a countryman of his namesake, Opotee. To the north of Porter's Monument, and back from the sand beach, where was the navy-yard, all is now overgrown with bushes and trees, some of which have attained to a considerable size. Like the monument, there is no indication of its ever having been occupied for any human purpose,
On the first of October, the day after our arrival, I went on shore, taking with me a great variety of seeds, for the purpose of planting them where it was most probable they would be taken care of and come to maturity. The natives flocked round me in great numbers. There was not less than a hundred boys with the crowd of men and women that followed me. They were highly delighted when they discovered my object, which was explained to them by John Luxon, the native of Nooaheeva, who spoke English. Whenever we came to a rough or muddy place, which was frequently the case, the boys and men, notwithstanding my remonstrances, would mount me on their shoulders and carry me over, with loud shouting. I could easily perceive that this was a frolic with those who engaged in it, and done out of levity and the caprice of the moment; but I could not but feel that they had been first stimulated to it by the favourable impression they had conceived of my design. I planted some things in unfrequented places where I found a clear spot, but most of the seeds and fruit-pits, in the enclosures of the natives. John Luxon was a man of some rank as a chief, and possessed considerable property. To one of his enclosures that was large and seemed to have been attended with unusual care, I devoted most of my attention. There, aided by several of the natives, who laboured with great assiduity, I prepared the ground and made quite an extensive plantation of orange, lemon, cheromaya, peach, apricot, water-melons, pumpkins, potatoes, onions, beans, corn, and a variety of other fruits and grain, from Peru. He expressed himself in terms of the warmest gratitude, and I have no doubt that the natives have already experienced the most important benefits from the memento I left them of the Dolphin's visit to their Island.
In the course of my days' occupation, I was several times driven into Luxon's house by the frequent showers that came over. I no sooner entered, than the natives flocked after me, and in a few minutes the hut would be crowded. The little boys and girls here shewed me the same officious attention that I received in making my way to the village, but expressed in a different manner. As many as could approach would surround me with their fans, keeping them going until the rain ceased, and I was again enabled to resume my work. This was a kind of civility, peculiarly agreeable, as the weather was oppressively warm; but I could not fail to discover that my little attendants were all candidates for my friendly notice and bestowed their civility with the expectation of some reward. I had a few trifles about me, but not enough to give to all, and felt at a loss in what way I should make my presents, fearing that the least favoured would be mortified and displeased. It seemed however to make no difference. It was all "motake"[[5]] with them. All seemed satisfied. On my return to the beach, I found it thronged with men, women, and children. All the beauty and fashion of Massachusetts' Bay had assembled in honour of our arrival, decked out in their finest tappas, and gayest colours. The females were dressed in the best style of their island, with neat turbans of tappa-cloth, white, or ornamented with colours, a white robe of the same material thrown loosely over them, tastefully knotted on one shoulder, concealing half the bosom, and a wrapper round the waist that reached below the knee. They were arranged in groups of a dozen each, singing merrily and clapping their hands in time to the music of their voices. A little way from them the men were seated in the same manner and similarly occupied. The ladies, to improve their charms, had used an abundant quantity of cocoa-nut oil, which filled the air with its nauseous perfumes for an hundred yards round. Many of them had more highly anointed themselves with yellow paint, which, with the cocoa-nut oil, was running from them in streams. Some had decorated themselves with necklaces of a golden yellow fruit which bears a strong resemblance to a pine-apple, and emits a powerful offensive smell. At a distance, with their variegated robes flying in the wind, their appearance was altogether agreeable, and upon a near approach the scene was animated beyond description. The dusk of evening was the signal for their dispersion, when some went one way and some another. On the second of October, I wandered back upon the hills, and had all the boys with me that followed me on the preceding day.