Journal of a cruise of the United States schooner Dolphin, among the islands of the Pacific Ocean; and a visit to the Mulgrave Islands, in pursuit of the mutineers of the whaleship Globe

by Hiram Paulding

The whole face of the island of Nooaheeva is high and mountainous. Every part I visited is composed of volcanic cinders, and evidently owes its origin to some great convulsion of nature. Whilst we remained at Massachusetts' Bay, the weather was mild and pleasant. We had several heavy showers, which, in one instance, only was accompanied with a squall of wind. After these showers it was delightful to contemplate the beauty of the innumerable little cascades of water every where falling over the rocks from the tops of the mountains. In a few hours, many of them would become less brilliant, and some would quite disappear. We found the longitude of our anchorage by the mean of three chronometers, to be one hundred and thirty-nine degrees fifty-four minutes and thirty seconds west; latitude, by a series of observations, eight degrees fifty-seven minutes forty-five seconds south.

October the 5th, we got under way, and stood out with a light and baffling wind, tacking very close in with both shores. At nine, A.M., we passed the Sentinels, and bore up to the westward with a moderate breeze from E.S.E. The islands Rooahooga and Rooapooa, were plainly in sight. In clear weather they may be seen at least fifty miles. The amiable character of the inhabitants of Nooaheeva, and the friendly disposition they had evinced towards us upon all occasions, made us feel regret at leaving them so soon. The course that now lay before us, carried us away from all the civilized world; and the islands in our way affording but little to tempt navigators to visit them, were known to us only as places, existing on the wide surface of the ocean, where, with few exceptions, the inhabitants had never seen the face of a white man. We could anticipate no other gratification from our contemplated visit to them, than the indulgence of our curiosity. The weather became squally after our departure from the Marquesas, and continued so for several days, during which time we were frequently deceived by the clouds assuming the strongest appearance of land, for which we steered two or three times, under a full conviction that we had made a discovery. We could picture to ourselves, the mountains, and valleys, and bays, and, to confirm the deception, we frequently saw land birds flying about us.

At day-light, on the 10th of October, we discovered Caroline Island, bearing W.S.W., and distant fourteen miles. We were on the weather side of it, and a furious surf was every where in sight, breaking upon a reef some distance from the shore. We stood along to the westward, and at nine, A.M., passed a reef, that makes out from the N.W. end of the island, protecting it to the S.W. from the heavy easterly swell, and prevailing winds. Under the lee of the reef, we stood in, with the hope of finding anchorage, getting frequent casts of the lead, until, to our great disappointment, it was discovered that there was deep sea-water within a few feet of a bed of coral, that stretched off three or four hundred yards from the shore, farther to the south and west, a high surf was breaking, and this being the only place where we could land, and, desirous of exploring the island, we took a small kedge to the coral bank, by which we rode to the easterly trade winds. Here we landed without much difficulty, and made our way to the shore, over the coral, although it was full of holes, and looked as though it would give way under our feet. The holes in the coral-bed were from one to three feet deep, and some of them had the appearance of communicating with the ocean. In these holes, we found an abundance of large and very fine fish, with which we supplied the crew in great plenty. They were of several different kinds, the best of which were the red grouper, and a long fish, of a dark colour, for which we had no name. Boarding pikes and boat-hooks were the only instruments we used for taking them, and by this simple apparatus alone a frigate's crew might have been supplied in a short time. A boat was also sent to fish alongside of the coral bank, where were myriads of red grouper, of a large size; but the sharks were so numerous, that, for every fish, we lost two or three hooks.

The tide rises, at Caroline Island, from three to four feet, and, at low water, the coral-bank was nearly dry. This was the case when we landed, and, having remained there several hours, our fishing party was surprised with a rise of the water, that made it difficult, and somewhat dangerous for them to retrace their steps to the edge of the bank, the holes in many places not being perceptible, and the water in them over their heads. What made their situation the more disagreeable was the number of sharks that had come in with the tide, and which occasionally made a bite at their feet or legs. One man, who had a large bunch of fish which he trailed through the water, was so closely pursued, and fiercely attacked by them, that he was compelled to take refuge upon a rock that lay in his way, from which he could not again be prevailed upon to descend, until the boat went to his relief. Caroline Island is uninhabited. It is from five to eight miles long, and no where in the vicinity of our anchorage more than from a quarter to half a mile wide. There are some trees of a large size upon it, and in most places a thick growth of underwood. It is every where bounded by a bed of coral, which generally extends several hundred yards from the shore. We saw no animals on it, and no other reptiles than small lizards. Sea birds were tolerably numerous, and a few sand snipe were seen. On the weather side of the island, we found a cocoa-nut tree, that, to all appearance, had but recently drifted on shore. Besides the cocoa-nut tree, we found two articles of Indian furniture. That they came from an inhabited island, there can be no doubt, and it is equally certain that the island has never been discovered, as there is none laid down upon the chart, in the direction of the trade winds, from Caroline Island, nearer than the Society Islands. The Marquesas are the nearest to Caroline, of any land known; and they are distant upwards of six hundred miles, and differ in their bearing a little from the general direction of the trade winds. On the cocoa-nut tree there were two nuts, which had the appearance of having been but a short time in the water. We planted them near our anchorage. Caroline Island is low, and every where flat, with the exception of a few sand hillocks, that rise a little above the ordinary level. It is no where more than four or five feet above the sea. We obtained a boat-load of pepper-grass and pursely, of which there was a great abundance; and on the 13th, at meridian, unhooked our kedge, and made sail to the westward. Our place of landing at Caroline Island, was south latitude nine degrees fifty-four minutes thirty seconds; west longitude, one hundred and fifty degrees eighteen seconds.

Previous to taking our departure from the coast of Peru, the commander of the station had furnished us with a long list of islands, said to have been recently discovered by whalers, and we were now in the vicinity of two of them, one of which was laid down in south latitude eight degrees forty minutes; and west longitude one hundred and fifty-nine degrees fifty minutes. The other, in south latitude, six degrees forty-two minutes; went longitude one hundred and sixty-six degrees ten minutes. After our departure from Caroline Island, we steered for the supposed new discovery, that was nearest to us, being that in latitude eight degrees forty seconds; and, having cruised two days in the vicinity, bore away, under a full conviction that it did not exist, or had been laid down incorrectly. In our search for the other island, we were equally unsuccessful; and after running down a degree or two of longitude, in its parallel of latitude, continued on to the southward and westward, shaping our course for the Duke of Clarence Island. Whilst we were looking for these new discoveries, we were frequently deceived by the same false appearance of land, that I have noticed soon after our departure from the Marquesas, and several times we saw land-birds[[8]] flying about the vessel.

At four, A.M., on the 29th of October, we discovered the Duke of Clarence Island ahead, twelve miles from us. At day-light, the N.W. end was full in sight, and on each side of it, apparently at a great distance, the tops of the trees could but just be seen through the haze of the morning, looking as though they rose from the ocean. As we approached nearer, a great many islets rose to view, connected with each other by a chain of coral reefs. In sailing round them, we discovered that they formed a polygon, the sides of which were narrow strips of land and coral reefs, comprehending within them a lake of many miles in circumference. When we first got close in with the island, this lake, intervening between us and the most distant islets that rose at the utmost limit of our vision, almost persuaded us, for a time, that it was an extensive group, instead of one little island that looked like a speck upon the general chart. The lake was everywhere protected against the ocean, and so smooth, that not an undulation could be seen upon its surface. The wind was light, the sea smooth,—the air had the mildness and elasticity of a spring morning; and these deep green spots, upon the wide waste of ocean, were truly beautiful. The islets were low, rising but a few feet above the water, and all covered with a thick growth of cocoa-nut trees. When we run down within a few miles of the shore to the westward, where, near the beach, were a few huts, two canoes put off, and pulled for us with great rapidity, and shortly afterwards not less than twenty were in sight.

All this part of the shore was bounded by a coral reef, upon which was breaking a heavy surf, and as we wished to anchor, and look for water, we continued on for the leeward shore. We were under easy sail, and the canoes kept way with us, constantly increasing in number, having, each of them, from four to seven men. One of them came very near us, and to save the natives the labour of working at their paddles, we threw them the end of a rope. They laid hold of it very eagerly, but instead of tying it to some part of their canoe, as we expected they would have done, they hauled up by it as close to our stern as they could get, and made motions for us to give them more. We did so, and they again motioned us to veer to. This, we thought unnecessary, as they had already sufficient for the purpose we intended. When they found that their solicitations for more were not heeded, they very deliberately took a sharp instrument of bone or shell, and cut the rope off, having several fathoms in their canoe. As soon as they had done this, they took to their paddles, and pulled away for us with all their might, and were soon again near enough to have a rope thrown to them, which they called for as loud as they could, making, at the same time, significant motions. When they found that we would not give them the rope again, they paddled up to our quarter, and one of them, who was a powerful man, came on board, without seeming to fear us in the least. Several of the officers spoke to him, and tried to call his attention; but, without taking the least notice of any body, he walked straight to the stern-netting, where he commenced most industriously to throw into his canoe every thing that he could lay hands on. The quarter-master and others, who were near, remonstrated with him, in vain, against such outrageous conduct. Their interference seemed only to excite his indignation, and make him the more active in accomplishing his design. When we found that nothing else would prevail with him, I took a musket that lay near me, and gave him a slight blow with it, calling at the same time on some of the men, who stood near, to lay hold of him. He seized the musket, when I struck him, and would have taken me overboard with it, but for the timely assistance of those who were near. He made his escape before the men could get hold of him, having succeeded in throwing into his canoe the log-reel and line, besides a number of other articles, that we could not conveniently spare. We would have pursued the canoe, and taken from it the stolen articles, but they all moved with such rapidity, that we had no hope of overtaking them, if we made the attempt. When the natives in the other canoes had witnessed the success of their comrades in carrying off their booty, which they were displaying to those around them, with great delight, they were encouraged to come near, and make a similar attempt at plunder. They were somewhat cautious, however, having witnessed the resistance we made. The next theft was that of breaking off one of the rudder-irons of the waist-boat. The captain, who was near, prevailed upon the fellow to give it up, which he did, without the least hesitation; but, remaining quietly where he was, he seized the opportunity, when the captain's face was turned from him, and, snatching the piece of iron out of his hands, jumped overboard, and swam to the nearest canoe. We were all the time close in with the shore, getting frequent casts of the deep sea lead, and the moment it was overboard, and the line was seen by the natives, they made for it in a dozen canoes, and with instruments of sharp shells, fastened to sticks, endeavoured to cut it off. They paid not the slightest attention to our remonstrances and threats, and the only way in which we could prevent them from effecting their object, was by hauling the line in as fast as possible.

After running along the shore for several miles, seeking in vain for anchorage, we began to examine the reefs, that connected the islets, with great solicitude, in the hope of finding an opening into the lake, whore we should be protected from the wind and sea. Of this, however, we soon despaired, and passing the south-west point of the island, a bountiful little bay opened to our view, upon the shore of which the surf beat less violently than we had seen it elsewhere. Here we hove to, and sent a boat in shore to look for anchorage. She soon returned with a report that, within less than half a cable's length of the shore, no bottom could be found, with upwards of a hundred fathoms of line. We now gave up all intention of anchoring, and permitted the natives to come alongside, and exchange whatever we had, that was mutually acceptable to each other. They had continued to follow us, and, growing bold with their numbers, frequently threw on board of the vessel clubs, cocoa-nuts, or whatever they had in their canoes, that could be used as missiles. This was accompanied by such a loud shouting, and they had become so numerous, that the orders for the ordinary duty of the vessel could not be heard. Some of their clubs were so large, as to be capable of inflicting a fatal blow by the violence with which they were thrown, and our apprehensions of suffering some evil consequence from this licentious conduct of our new acquaintances, were soon realised, by one of them striking the surgeon upon the head. He was in ill health, and had just come upon deck to witness the novel spectacle around us, when the unwelcome salutation was given. It alarmed us at first for his safety; but, to our gratification, we discovered that his hat had so far protected his head, that the wound was not severe. As soon as the natives saw the schooner heave to, they closed around us, and as many as could get alongside, came with whatever they had to offer. Nearly a hundred canoes were assembled, and in them several hundred men. When they saw us hoisting out our boat for the purpose of sounding, they became alarmed, and took to flight. No inducement could prevail upon them to come near us, whilst the boat lay alongside, and as soon as she shoved off, they took to their paddles, and retreated as fast as they could; but when they saw that she took a different direction, and it was not her object to pursue them, they all turned and followed her. They gathered around her at a short distance, apparently afraid to approach nearer, at first making signs for her to go on shore, where was a numerous group of men, women, and children, inviting our people to land. Seeing that the boat would not go on shore, and after the duty assigned had been accomplished, that she was returning to the schooner, the natives with one accord closed more nearly around her, as if to intercept her passage. The officer in the boat made threats and signs for them to retire, to which they paid not the slightest attention. A canoe came on each side of the boat, and the natives laid hold of the oars, a man rising in each canoe at the same time, with a barbed spear, which he held in the attitude of throwing. The officer, feeling that his situation was a very critical one, and thinking that the report of his pocket pistol would cause them to desist, presented it with a design to fire ahead of one of the canoes. It did not go off, but the snap was a signal sufficient for our men to prepare for their defence, believing they were exposed to the greatest danger. They seized their pistols, with one of which each man was provided, and before the officer could interfere to prevent them from firing (the noise and confusion amongst the natives being such, that he could not be heard) one of the men discharged his piece, and the ball passed through the hand of one of the natives. They became alarmed at the extraordinary report of the pistol, and immediately after it, seeing the blood flow from the hand of their countryman, discontinued their assault, and retired with precipitation. The boat then returned to the schooner unmolested, the natives flying from her in every direction as she approached them. We were apprehensive that the report of the pistol, and the wounding one of the natives would produce so great a panic amongst them, as to interrupt our farther intercourse. But in this we were agreeably disappointed, for the boat was no sooner hoisted in, than they came alongside, with as much confidence, as though nothing of the kind had occurred. In an hour afterwards, the wounded man was seen in a canoe, fifty or a hundred yards from us, apparently afraid to come nearer. He was distinguished by having his hand bound up in green leaves. After making motions to him, and those around us, and holding up a variety of things for his acceptance, he was at last prevailed upon to come near us. When he saw the sentinel, in the gangway, he stopped, and we in vain held up our presents for him, until the sentinel was removed. He then came on board, and suffered his wound to be examined and dressed, trembling and staring around him, like one in the greatest terror. We were gratified to find that the wound was not so severe as was to have been apprehended, the ball having passed through the fleshy part of his hand, between the thumb and forefinger, without breaking any bones, and probably without inflicting upon him a serious injury. When his wound was dressed, and he received a few presents of old iron, &c., to him invaluable, he left us, and jumped from one canoe to another, with the activity of a monkey, holding up his treasure, and talking with great vehemence, apparently delighted with his good fortune. The natives had nothing to exchange with us but a few mats, some of which were finely wrought, cocoa-nuts, bone and shell ornaments, and fishing-hooks, for which we gave them, in return, pieces of iron hoops, or old nails. We witnessed several instances of dishonesty amongst them, as well as their entire want of confidence in us. Whenever one of them presented any thing for exchange, he held it firmly grasped in his hand, until he received his pay with the other; and if he first obtained the old nail or iron hoop, without the person, with whom he was trading, getting firmly hold of his mat or whatever it might be, he was sure to keep both. Every man carried a long spear, and some of them a short weapon, slightly curved like a sword. Their spears were from eight to twelve feet long, some of which had one and some two branches near the end. They were pointed with the hard bone of a large fish, and, from one to two feet from the point, covered with rows of shark's teeth, that were immoveably fixed by a neat moulding of twine passing through the teeth, and round the spear. The short weapons were armed in the same manner all over, except a small part left for the grasp of the hand. Both were formidable weapons, and capable of inflicting a mortal wound. A few of them wore dry wreaths of cocoa-nut leaves round their brows, which were the only kind of covering we saw any of them have about their heads, and as the instances were rare, we thought it probable that they were chiefs. The dress for their loins consisted of two pieces, one of which was composed of a few plaited leaves, next to the skin, and the other consisted of a mat, from two to three feet wide, and four long, beautifully fringed at the bottom, and which served, not only as a pretty ornament, but was useful as a protection against the flies, which almost everywhere amongst these islands are very troublesome. They were strong and robust looking men, of a very dark copper colour, and most of them, particularly the old men, covered with scars, that they gave us to understand were occasioned by wounds from their spears and daggers. They wore their hair long, and in disagreeable looking matted locks. None of them had heavy beards, and in general but little. It is not improbable that they pull them out with fish-scales, as is practised at the Marquesas, and many others of the South Sea Islands. This is done by compressing the beard with the fingers between two large fish-scales, in the manner of applying a pair of tweezers. A great many natives, most of them women and children, had assembled on the shore, opposite to us, where they remained all day, singing and amusing themselves. No females came off in the canoes.

We saw no water, except a small quantity that one or two of the natives had in cocoa-nut shells, and, much to our regret, from ignorance of their language, could not inquire where it was to be obtained. The land no where rose more than from three to seven feet above the level of the sea, and as we could not land with safety, we had no means of ascertaining whether any rivulets existed upon it. The island seemed to produce nothing, but cocoa-nuts, which must be the only food of the natives, except when they are so fortunate as to catch fish. Towards evening we stood out of the bay, and hove to off the south-west point, where we sent a party on shore to collect a quantity of cocoa-nuts, of which there was a dense forest, that promised an abundant supply. Our people were no sooner on shore than they saw the natives approaching them in different directions, armed with spears and paddles, making signals to each other, and signs, for the intruders to depart. Every tree had some peculiar mark, from whence we concluded, it was considered the property of some individual. It was after sun-down, and night was closing in fast upon our party, who finding, from the determined manner of the natives, that, whatever they took, must be by violence, gave up the enterprise, and returned to the beach. It was fortunate that they did so, for the tide had risen considerably, and with it the surf had increased in a dangerous degree. All, however, got off safe, but with wet jackets, and at eight, P.M., October the 30th, we hoisted in the boat, and made sail.

We ran off with a fine breeze, and at half-past three, A.M., made the Duke of York's Island, directly ahead, and sooner than we expected. It was not more than three or four miles off; the deep hollow roar of the surf could be distinctly heard, and its foaming white crest seen through the mists of the night, as it tumbled on the shore. We hove to until morning, when we made sail along the land, towards the south end of the island. This island is noted on the chart, as uninhabited, when discovered by Commodore Byron, in 1791; and it may be supposed, that we were not a little surprised, on approaching the southern point, to see two canoes putting off for us. One of them came alongside, the other kept at a distance. The first had but one man in it, who exchanged a mat for a piece of iron hoop, and returned immediately to the shore, followed by his consort. When we got to the southward of the point, which was the lee side of the island, we hove to, and sent a boat to look for anchorage. The shores were similar to those of Caroline and Clarence Islands,—of coral, and shelving suddenly into deep sea-water. It was somewhat better here, however, for within half a cable's length of the surf, we let go our anchor in twenty fathoms water. Although we veered eighty fathoms of cable, the bottom was so smooth, and its angle of depression so great, that we drifted off.