A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States

by Holt S. Hallett

“Sirs,—I am desired by the Marquis of Salisbury to acknowledge your letter of the 13th instant. I am to say in reply that the Government would be very glad to see Burmah and South-western China united by railway, and fully believe that if such a measure could be carried into effect it would have the beneficial consequences which you indicate, especially to the industries of Lancashire and Cheshire. It is probable that when the existing Burmese railway is taken up to Bhamo it will receive a further extension up to the frontier, but no decision to this effect has yet been taken, as the possibility of such an undertaking must depend upon the conditions of the regions through which such a railway would pass. They have in past times been very disturbed, and the efforts to obtain a partial survey of the country, which have been made more than once by the Indian Government, have been frustrated by the uncivilised and turbulent character of the people.

—I am, your obedient servant,      R. T. Gunton.”

INDEX.

• Aborigines, the, [21].
• Accadian literature of Chaldea, [52].
• Acolytes, rules for the, [303].
• Adepts at intrigue, [445].
• Adultery, punishment for, [301].
• Alabaster, Mr, on slavery in Bangkok, [447].
• American Presbyterian Missions in Siam and Zimmé, [93].
• Ancestral and demon worship, [82], [151].
• Ancestral spirits, consulting, [106].
• Aneroid, accident to, [226].
• Ang Sa Lome, [324].
• Anglo-Siamese Treaty of 1874, [116].
• ‘Annamese Chronicles,’ a source of history, [ix].
• Archer, Mr, British Consul at Zimmé, on the extent of the trade converging at Kiang Hai, [209] et seq.
  • —his report on Muang Fang, [351].
• Assassinating a lover, [118].
• Auckland, Lord, Governor-General of India, [viii].
• Augury of fowl-bones, the, [347].
• Ayuthia, former capital of Siam, [412].
• Baber’s, Mr Colborne, survey of the Bhamo route, [427].
• Ban Bung Kay-ow, [440].
• Bangkok, arrangements for boat-journey to, [390].
• Bang Pa Kong river, [459].
• Ban Hsope Kyem, [72].
• Ban Hsope Long, [90].
• Ban Hta, [108].
• Ban Huay Hee-o, [310].
• Ban Huay Ngoo, [368].
• Banian-tree, a large, [362].
• Ban Kau, [395].
• Ban Mai, [225], [310].
• Ban Meh Chai, [224].
• Ban Meh Chan, [184].
• Ban Meh Chun, [403].
• Ban Meh Hang, visit to, [357].
• Ban Meh Kap village, [331].
• Ban Meh Kaun, [335], [337].
• Ban Meh Kee, [184].
• Ban Meh Kih, [345], [360].
• Ban Meh Lim, [334].
• Ban Meh Meh, [332].
• Ban Meh Mon, [345].
• Ban Meh Pik, [402].
• Ban Meh Sai, rice-plain of, [247].
• Ban Meh Set, [370].
• Ban Meh Soi, [73].
• Ban Meh Soon, [345].
• Ban Meh Ta, [288].
• Ban Meut Kha, [394].
• Ban Nang En, [392].
• Ban Nong Long, [74].
• Ban Nyang village, [392].
• Ban Pa Sak, [136], [187].
• Ban Pah Yang Neur, [403].
• Ban Pang Kai, [307].
• Ban Perng, [369].
• Ban Poo-ken, [220].
• Ban Soop Tau, [400].
• Ban Ta Doo-a, [402].
• Ban Ta Doo-er, [393].
• Ban Ta Ngoo, [441].
• Ban Ta Pee, [78].
• Ban Wung Pone, [439].
• Ban Yang Tone village, [218].
• Bargaining with an abbot, [300].
• Barrier to boat traffic, [399].
• Bathing images, [261].
• Bau-gyee, [54].
• Bau Koke, [54].
• Bau plateau, natives of the, [47], [59].
• Bau Sa Lee, [48].
• Bau Sa-lee-am, [395].
• Bed-bugs, abundance of, [278].
• Bed without dinner, [362].
• Begging for meals, [302].
• Bentinck, Lord William, orders a mission to the Shan States, [viii].
• Bernard, Sir Charles, chief commissioner of Burmah, [419]
  • —his opinion on the railway question, [422].
• Betel-chewing, [371].
• Bible translated into Shan, [312].
• Bigits, Prince, expected visit of, [283]
  • —visit to, [373]
  • —conversation with, on the railway project, [381].
• Birds and monkeys dying of grief, [173].
• Blossoms, spring, [220].
• Boat-hire on the Meh Nam, [65], [68].
• Boat-journeys from and to Bangkok, [413].
• Bock, Carl, on the mineral wealth of Lakon, [281].
• Bo Toung hill, [14].
• Books, palm-leaf, [301].
• Bowring, Sir John, on the population of the Shan States, [383].
• Boxing and wrestling, [385].
• Boxing with regular gloves, [217].
• Bribery and extortion at frontier guard-house, [295].
• Brick and tile works, [89].
• Bridge disaster, [386].
• Bridging the Salween, [14].
• Britons, ancient, and Shans compared, [200].
• Bronze images of Gaudama, [193].
• Brothels in Bangkok, [452].
• Bryce, Mr, manager of the Bombay Trading Company, [5], [10], [24], [39] et seq.
• Buddha, footprints of, [70]
  • —a crowned, [166]
  • —a, forty-five feet high, [228].
• Buddhist legend, [254].
• Buffaloes, light-coloured, [90].
• Bugs in Karen houses, [10].
• Bureng Naung, the Burmese Emperor, [49].
• Burial customs, [175].
• Burmah-China railway, prospects for a, [171].
• Burmese Christians, [15].
• Burmese Shans, [145].
• Burmese Shans, invasion of, [335].
• Burning the dead, [49].
• Butterflies, abundance of, [181], [251].
• Butterfly in man, Burmese psychology of the, [181].
• Cabalistic charms, [81].
• Camp-dinners and cookery, [128].
• Canal irrigation, [127].
• Caravan traffic through Zimmé, [104].
• Carriage from China, cost of, [170].
• Cartographer of the R.G.S. on Mr Holt Hallett’s survey, [293].
• Cattle, black, export of, [30]
  • —with nose-bags and masks, [146].
• Cattle-breeding among the Khas, [22].
• Cattle-disease spreading, [359].
• Cattle with nose-bags and masks, [146].
• Caverns, flat-arched, [394].
• Cham race of Malay stock, [x].
• Chambers of Commerce on the Burmah-Siam-China Railway, [464] et seq.
• Charms let in the flesh, [138].
• Chaum Taung, [226].
• Chedi Lee-am, large monastery at, [91].
• Cheek, Dr, [98] et seq.
• Chetties, or Native of India bankers, [29].
• Chinese chop-sticks, [85].
• Chinese fortifications, [142].
• Chinese in Siam, [461].
• Chinese pack-saddles for mules, [212].
• Chinese settlers from Ssuchuan, Kweichau, and Yunnan, [196].
• Chow Oo Boon, Princess, lends elephants to exploring party, [313].
• Chow Oo-Boon, the spirit-medium and historian of the royal family, [49]
  • —instances of her power, [105].
• Christianity a great boon, [325].
• Cicadas and their music, [284].
• Cities, ancient, [199]
  • —deserted, [223].
• Clarke, Sir Andrew, and the Siamese system of railways, [425].
• Cliffs a mile high, [397].
• Clothing worn by females, [52].
• Colquhoun, Mr, author of work on Siam, [48]
  • —expected meeting with, [381]
  • —arrival, [454].
• Commissariat arrangements, [5].
• Communication cheap, necessity for, [415].
• Confessions in Siamese police courts, [449].
• Confucius and Buddha, [182].
• Consulate, visit to the, at Bangkok, [445].
• Copper found in Lakon, [281]
  • —mine of, at Muang Kut, [291].
• Courageous lady, a, [60].
• Courtship, marriage, and divorce among the Shans, [128].
• Creation of man, Buddhist legends of the, [182].
• Criminal sentenced to slavery, descendants of, [302].
• Crown commoners, [132].
• Curiosities, bargaining for, [300].
• Cushing, Dr, [1] et seq., [31], [127]
  • —has smallpox, [286]
  • —house for, built in two days, [294]
  • —on the present condition of the Shans, [387].
• Customs of the Zimmé ladies, [99].
• Cutch, preparations of, [370].
• Dacoiting boats, [406].
• Dagger, bargaining for a, [353].
• Daguinseik, a Siamese frontier post, [33].
• Dale, a beautiful, [286].
• Damming streams for fisheries, [224].
• Dana Toung range of hills, [10].
• Dances of the Karens, [37].
• Dang Whung Chow, [437].
• Dead forest, [251].
• Decoration of temples and monasteries, [92].
• Deer-lick, a, [362].
• Deer startled, [344].
• Demoniac, a, [112].
• Demons, residence for, [141].
• Deserted cities of Manola, the, [186].
• Devan, Prince, on the proposed railway, [455] et seq.
• Dianas, youthful, in Zimmé, [99].
• Dinner served in European style, [125].
• Disease, theory of, the Siamese, [273].
• Distilling pots, huge iron, [209].
• Divorce, payments for, [174].
• Doctor, a Siamese, [272]
  • —payment of, by the job, [275]
  • —adds to his income by acting as a priest to the demons, [276].
• Dog offered to demons, [3].
• Dong Phya Phai, [462].
• Drainage of district flowing in three directions, [341].
• Dredges, hand, [435].
• Drinking habits of the Khas, [22].
• Droves of pigs and laden cattle, meet, [45].
• Duplicate kings of Siam, [285].
• Dutch expelled from Burmah, [vii].
• Dwarf races of Indo-China, [21].
• Dyes, use of, [87].
• Eastern Siam, excursion to, [458].
• Eclipse seen at Muang Ngow, [254].
• Eels, eating white, [187].
• Elephants, motion of, [11]
  • —crossing steep hills, [25]
  • —hiring, [33], [40]
  • —cruel drivers of, [45]
  • —without tusks, [177]
  • —elephant-driving, [178]
  • —danger when driver is careless, [179]
  • —as tool-users, ib.
  • —man killed by a wild elephant, [214]
  • —buying an elephant, [216]
  • —playing truant, [285]
  • —training, [316]
  • —a vicious one, [326]
  • —attacked by a vicious, [359].
• Embroideries, Shan, excellence of, [392].
• Embroidery sent to Burmah, [87].
• “Emerald Buddh,” the celebrated, [167].
• Enhancement of prices, [296].
• Entangling demons, [331].
• Ethnology of Burmah and Siam, [x]. et seq.
• European goods at Kiang Tung, [213].
• Evil spirits, scaring, [259].
• Execution, modes of, [32].
• Exorcist, an, [107].
• Expectant Buddhas, implements for the use of, [322].
• Exploration, proposals for further, [454].
• Exploring party, number of the, [127].
• Exports from Lakon to Bangkok, [280].
• Faith-healing, [183].
• Fang Min, [76].
• Fever, malarious, Mr Webster on, [279].
• Fighting crickets, fish, and cocks, [237].
• Filthy dwellings, [277].
• Fisheries, river, [224].
• Fisherwomen, panic-stricken, [360].
• Fishing by women, [87]
  • —for a livelihood, [164]
  • —by moonlight, [176].
• Fishing, implements used in, [169].
• Flies, bloodthirsty, [179]
  • —a plague of, [311].
• Flood of 1877, the great, [3].
• Floods, extraordinary, in Siam, [411].
• Foot-and-mouth disease, [327].
• Footprints of Gaudama, [70], [165].
• Foreign competition for trade, [414]
  • —marriages, [131].
• Forest-clad plain, [78]
  • —a magnificent, [180].
• Foresters, visit to Burmese, [123].
• Fortifications of the Shans, [199].
• French influence in Siam, [421].
• Frenchified monk, [443].
• Fresco-paintings of hell punishments, [299].
• Frontier dues, [163]
  • —trouble on the, [407].
• Fugitives put in chains, [355].
• Fumigation and disinfection, [294].
• Funeral buildings, royal, [248].
• Furniture, Shan, [83].
• Gadflies, [208].
• Gambling and opium dens, no, in Viang Pow, [366].
• Gambling currency, [234].
• Gambling games in Siam, [235]
  • —monopoly of, in Siam, [238].
• Gambling-house jails, [243].
• Game, large, abundance of, [345]
  • —an unsuccessful hunt for, [354].
• Garments, homespun, [87].
• Garnier’s journey, [426].
• Gaudama sacrificed to, as the goddess of mercy, [51]
  • —formerly Indra, [228], [406]
  • —footprints of, [320].
• Geological formations, peculiar, [396].
• Ghoul spirit, the, [83].
• Gibbons, wailing of, [43]
  • —agility of, [208]
  • —the cry of, [307].
• Giving, a privilege, [302].
• Glutinous rice, [13].
• God of medicine, the, [272]
  • —fee to, [275].
• Goddess of mercy, the, [51].
• Gods, waking the, with water, [264].
• Gold and silver carried while travelling, [2].
• Gold, indications of, [147]
  • —in the Kiang Tung Lawa country, [175].
• Gold-mines, tramway to the, [463].
• Goteik defile, [431].
• Gould, Mr, British Vice-Consul to the Zimmé Shan States, [283], [314] et seq.
• Government masters, unscrupulous, [461].
• Government masters in Siam, [131].
• Government monopolies, Siamese, [244].
• Governor in league with dacoits, [406].
• Guardian spirits of districts, [325].
• Hair-cutting in Siam, [345].
• Hairy-faced men, [443].
• Hang Sat, [285].
• Head-dressing of Zimmé Shans, [138].
• Headless spirits, [111].
• Hermaphroditism, [99].
• Hills, precipitous, [335].
• Hlineboay village, [4]
  • —its market, ib.
  • —river, [3], [11].
• Hong, Chinese, a, [87].
• Hong Htan, [285].
• Horse-hair lace, [213].
• Hot springs, [24].
• House-building, rules for, [82].
• Houses in the Shan villages, [80].
• Hsong Keveh, [78].
• Htong Htan, [87].
• Huay Bau Kyow, [61], [266].
• Huay Kao, [120].
• Huay Kay-Yow, [394].
• Huay Kok Moo, [223].
• Huay Kyoo Lie, [256].
• Huay Ma Koh hills covered with teak, [26].
• Huh Sai, [329], [337]
  • —valley of the, [54].
• Human sacrifices, [49].
• Hysteria and evil spirits, [111].
• Idols, fallen, [355].
• Image of Buddha destroyed by missionaries, [109].
• Images, manufacture of, [67];
  • purloining of, [351].
• Immorality of princes, [452].
• India and China as markets for British manufactures, [415].
• Indra’s heaven, [70].
• Inquisitive people, [338].
• Inscriptions on foundation-stones, [385].
• Insignia of office, a chief’s, [162].
• Iron-mine guarded by demons, [54]
  • —near Kiang Hsen, [196]
  • —in Lakon, [281].
• Japanese books, library of, [446].
• Joke about Phra Chedi Sow, [271].
• Judge, a Christian, [268].
• Jungle demons, [397].
• Jungle-fire, [184].
• Kamait, catching a, [336].
• Kamait language, the, [336].
• Kamaits, the, [21].
• Kamook lumber-men, [400].
• Kamooks, the, [21].
• Kamphang Pet, [412], [437].
• Kanyin, or oil-tree, [248].
• Karen interpreter and guide, [6].
• Karen tribes, [xiii].
• Karen villages, [36]
  • —Christians, [279].
• Karen Yain, [36].
• Karroway Toung or Parrot’s Hill, [21], [47]
  • —pass, [23].
• Ka-wat or pagoda slaves, [122].
• Khas, the, [21].
• Kiang Dow, [75]
  • —province of, [330]
  • —description of the city of, [334].
• Kiang Hai plain, [126], [149], [153]
  • —villages near, [173].
• Kiang Hsen, [75]
  • —arrival of expedition at, [189]
  • —extent of city, [195]
  • —destruction of, in 1804, [201]
  • —repopulation of, [202].
• Kiang Hsen plain, [184], [402].
• Kiang Hung, [427].
• Kiang Hung Shans Burmese subjects, [151].
• Kiang Ngai, [338].
• Kiang Tung Lawas, a Jung tribe, [144].
• Kiang Yuen, [120].
• King, petitioning the, regarding misgovernment, [408]
  • —missionary’s opinion of, [410].
• Kissing with the nose, [83].
• Koo Saik Choung river, [17].
• Korat plateau, [462].
• Kow Sau Kyow, [402].
• Krong Suen Ma, [438].
• Kun Lôn ferry, [431] et seq.
• Kweh Chow village, [88].
• Kyoo Pow, [207].
• Kyouk Toung hills, [11].
• Labour, cheap, for the railway, [281].
• Labour-supply of Muang Fang, [352].
• Lace prized, [387].
• La-hu people, general characteristics of the, [160]
  • —their vocabulary, [161].
• La-hu women, dress of the, [159].
• Lake-basins, ancient, [145], [329].
• Lakon, description of the State of, [267]
  • —law and justice in, [269]
  • —trade of, [280].
• Land-tax or rent, [135].
• Land yielding 250-fold, [350].
• Lanma-Gyee Garté police station, [12].
• Lao marriage, [355].
• Lao provinces of Siam, [321].
• Laos tribe, [21].
• Lapoon, [12]
  • —immigrants to, [216]
  • —reach, [289]
  • —description of, [291]
  • —visit the chief of, ib.
• ‘Lapoon Chronicle,’ [33].
• Lascivious spirits, [398].
• Lāun Ten, [191].
• Lawa race, [xi].
• Lawa villages, [36].
• Lawas, the, and their customs, [38].
• Leaning pagoda, [188].
• Lent, the Buddhist, [258].
• Lepers, banishment of, [78].
• Legend of Chaum Taung, [226].
• Legend of Kiang Mee-ang, [198].
• Legend of Loi Chaum Haut, [323].
• Legend of Loi Htong, [182].
• Legend of Loi Kiang Dow, [324].
• Legend of Me-lang-ta, [58].
• Legend of Muang Nŏng, [187].
• Legend of Nan Cham-a-ta-we, [49].
• Legend of Poo-Sa and Ya-Sa, [57].
• Legend of the dipped prince, [269].
• Legend of the hare-lip, [345].
• Legend of the Kow Din, [460].
• Legend of the Lakon, [271].
• Legend of the rapids, [69].
• Legend of the Ring Lake, [272].
• Legend of Tum Tap Tow, [342].
• Legend of Wat Pra Non, [317].
• Liars, the greatest, in the East, the Siamese, [298].
• Libraries of the monasteries, [301].
• Loi Ap Nang, [399].
• Loi Chang Hong, [396].
• Loi Chaum Haut, [369].
• Loi Chaum Haut mountain, [323].
• Loi Chong Teng, [320].
• Loi Hin Poon, [393].
• Loi Hoo-a Soo-a, [76].
• Loi Hsope Kang, [74].
• Loi Kai Khee-a, [73].
• Loi Kat Pee, [324].
• Loi Ken Noi, [329].
• Loi Keng Soi, [397].
• Loi Kern, [64], [393].
• Loi Kiang Dow, [323], [335].
• Loi Kom, [56].
• Loi Kom Ngam, [47].
• Loi Kom Ngam mountain, [44].
• Loi Kong Lome, [250].
• Loi Kook Loi Chang, [148].
• Loi Koon Htan, [285].
• Loi Kow Chung, [440].
• Loi Kow Luong, [441].
• Loi Kyoo Pa Săng, [341].
• Loi Law village, [77].
• Loi Loo-en, [225].
• Loi Luong hills, [401].
• Loi Meh Pa Neh, [404].
• Loi Mok, [144], [309].
• Loi Mon Kow Ngam, [270].
• Loi Mum Moo, [140], [309].
• Loi Nan, the Lady’s Hill, [335], [338].
• Loi Oo-um, [369].
• Loi Pa Chan, [136].
• Loi Pa Chan plateau, [309].
• Loi Pa Hem, [205].
• Loi Pa Kha range, [401].
• Loi Pa May-Yow, [396].
• Loi Pa Tyoo, [144].
• Loi Pa-Yat Pa-Yai, [332], [341].
• Loi Pah Heeng, [256].
• Loi Pah Khow hill, [56], [72].
• Loi Pah Kung, “the mountain of the tiger’s head,” [76].
• Loi Panya Lawa, [395].
• Loi Poo-ay, [153].
• Loi Pwe, [46].
• Loi Saun-Ka-tee, [205].
• Loi Soo Tayp mountain, [91]
  • —ascent of, [120].
• Loi Ta Khan Lai, [74].
• Loi Tat Muang Ken, [368].
• Loi Tong Wai, [46], [47].
• Loi Too-ey, [329].
• Loi Wung Ka Chow, [402].
• Lolo and Kaun villages, [365].
• Lotus, use of the, as a symbol, [51].
• Lover’s lute, description of a, [386].
• Luang Prabang, [21], [135], [321].
• MacLeod’s, General, journey to China through Burmah, [viii].
• M‘Gilvary, Dr and Mrs, [94]—the Doctor joins the exploring party, [123]
  • —sermon to the people by, [333].
• Madras boys good fighters, [7]
  • —their honesty, [128].
• Maing Loongyee, [16], [24], [27]
  • —its watersupply, [31].
• Manners, learning, [304].
• Maps of the country, [332].
• Market at Zimmé, [100]
  • —great variety of wares at, ib.
• Markets, need for new, [415].
• Marriage customs, [174]—curious, [366].
• Martin, Rev. Mr, [94]
  • —joins party, [313] et seq.
• Mau Sau, a celebrated native hunter, [353].
• Maulmain thoroughfare, [4].
• Maung Doo, halt at, [127].
• Maung Fang, leave for, [315].
• Maung Haut, [61]
  • —party leaves, [69].
• Maung Hit, excursion to, [196].
• Maung Kent, [328].
• Maung Pan, state of, [156].
• Meals, [84]
  • —daily particulars of, [249].
• Medicine and pills, theft of, [383].
• Medicines, stock of, [6]
  • —Siamese, [174], [273]
  • —ingredients in a dose, [274].
• Meh Ai, the river of shame, [346].
• Meh Chan, [351].
• Meh Chun valley, [76].
• Meh Fang, [341]
  • —camping at, [344]
  • —river, [360]
  • —valley of the, [75].
• Meh Gat, [42].
• Meh Hang, [329], [341].
• Meh Hau Prat, stream, [44], [370].
• Meh Haut river, [61].
• Meh Hkort valley, [136].
• Meh Hkuang, [392].
• Meh Hkuang river, [88], [127], [288].
• Meh How river, [284].
• Meh Hto river, [48].
• Meh Ing, [153].
• Meh Ing river, [225], [247].
• Meh Ka, [91].
• Meh Ka Lah, [136].
• Meh Ka Ni, [42].
• Meh Ka Tone, [27].
• Meh Kang, [74], [135].
• Meh Kee-ow, [309].
• Meh Khan, [87].
• Meh Khoke plain, [165].
• Meh Kok, [27], [135].
• Meh Kong or Cambodia river, [21], [156], [224]
  • —great eastern bend of the, [190].
• Meh Kong valley, [23].
• Meh Lah river, [255].
• Meh Lai, [393].
• Meh Lai river, [45].
• Meh Laik river, [24], [44].
• Meh Li, [75].
• Meh Lim, [320].
• Meh Low, [88]
  • —hot springs of, [311]
  • —valley of the, [308].
• Meh Lye, [44].
• Meh Mau river, [256].
• Meh Nam delta, population of the, [460].
• Meh Nam river, navigation on the, [250], [441] et seq.
• Meh Ngat, crossing the, [363]
  • —defile of the, [368].
• Meh Ngor river, [21], [24]
  • —its width and depth, [26].
• Meh Ngow, arrival of expedition at, [252]
  • —description of the city of, [253].
• Meh Nium river, [20], [21], [24], [31].
• Meh Nium valley, [44].
• Meh Pai, [353].
• Meh Pa-pai, [60].
• Meh Pau, a tributary of the Thoungyeen river, [17].
• Meh Phit, [75].
• Meh Pik, or the Pepper river, [147].
• Meh Ping, [64], [127], [320], [330]
  • —sources of the, [328].
• Meh Poi, [341].
• Meh Sa river, [320].
• Meh Sa Lin river, [31], [42].
• Meh Soo-ay, a royal game-preserve, [147].
• Meh Sow river, [287].
• Meh Ta, valley of the, [88], [287].
• Meh Ta Loke, [360].
• Meh Tan, [393].
• Meh Teng valley, [329].
• Meh Teun, [393].
• Meh Tha Wah, [18], [23].
• Meh Too, [23].
• Meh Trien, valley of the, [283].
• Meh Tyen, [48].
• Meh Wung, [141]
  • —valley of the, [251]
  • —villages on the, [278]
  • —crossing the, [283]
  • —basin of the, [309]
  • —mouth of, [403].
• Meh Yee-ep, [393].
• Meh Yom, [439].
• Meh Yu-ek, [251].
• Mehongson, [353].
• Merchandise brought by Chinese traders, [213].
• Mha Tha Ket, [48].
• Meh Wung, [404].
• Mineral springs, [24].
• Missionaries approve of the extension of the railway system, [96]
  • —friendly footing of, [205]
  • —illness of, [363].
• Missionaries bad sportsmen, [357].
• Missions, promising field for, [389].
• Mokmai, a Burmese Shan State, [334].
• Mon race and language, the, [xi].
• Monasteries in Maing Loongyee, [31].
• Monastery, visit to a, [78].
• Monastic life, entering, [337].
• Moné, the chief of, subject to Great Britain, [157].
• Mong Hpai, [432].
• Mong Nai, [432].
• Monk spoilt by the ladies, [165].
• Monks, evil practices of, [301].
• Monopolies, effect of, [365].
• Monosyllabic languages, [161].
• Moonlight scene, a, [330].
• Moung Loogalay, [326].
• Mountain villages of the Khas, [21].
• Moway, famous quarries of, [300].
• Muang Fang, [337]
  • —arrival at, [347]
  • —description of, ib.
  • —population of, [349]
  • —history of, [353]
  • —cost of carriage to, ib.
  • —leave the city, [360].
• Muang Hăng State, [335].
• Muang Haut, [295], [392].
• Muang Hpan, [223].
• Muang Ken, [368].
• Muang Ko, [437].
• Muang La Maing, [120].
• Muang Len, [426].
• Muang Ngai burned, [335]
  • —the city of, [338].
• Muang Ngam, [350].
• Muang Ngow city, [245].
• Muang Nium principality, [30].
• Muang Nyon, [350].
• Muang Penyow, [229].
• Muang Phan, [221].
• Muang Sat, [350].
• Muang Soon Dok, the town of the flower-garden, [120].
• Mud, boiling, to make tea, [225].
• Musical water-wheels, [89].
• Myawadi, [419].
• Naiads, offerings to the, [259].
• Nam Proon, [432].
• Needlework, fancy, [103].
• Neis, Dr Paul, French navy, [135]
  • —his survey for a railway route, [278].
• New Htow, [394].
• Nga-peur-dau village, [14].
• Ngio (Burmese Shans) raids, [365].
• Ngio, or Moné Shans, [158].
• Ngu race, [xi].
• Nirvana, the state of, [337].
• Nong Doo Sakan, [88].
• Nong Hang, [225].
• Nong Sang, [89].
• Nong Vee-a plain, [342].
• Offerings to the dead, [17], [147]
  • —for the monks, [257]
  • —to the spirits of the land or rivers, [259]
  • —to the good influences, [373].
• Ogres, Madras boys taken for, [167].
• Oo-caw stream, [24].
• Ootaradit, [441].
• Organ or pipes, the Laos, [339].
• Oxen used for drawing timber, [308].
• Paddy-birds, flocks of, [209].
• Pagoda, a fine, [91]
  • —of the Emerald Rice-bowl, [121]
  • —on Loi Tee, [288].
• Pahpoon, [33].
• Pah Took, [255].
• Pa-kin-soo, [392].
• Pak Bong, [88].
• Pak Muang, [90].
• Pak Nam Po, [441], [442].
• Palace at Zimmé, [101].
• Palace of the angels, description of the, [324].
• Palmyra-trees, [401].
• Pang Eemoon, swampy valley of, [60].
• Pang Hpan, [43].
• Pang Ngao, village of, [225].
• Pang Pau, [341].
• Pa Sang, [88].
• Pass 6500 feet above the sea, [156]
  • —a dangerous, [287]
  • —a difficult, [342].
• Passports supplied to the exploring party, [125].
• Paths over the hills, nature of the, [36].
• Patriarch, family, [129].
• Pau-ku-lay Toung, [17].
• Pau Pa Teun, [177].
• Pedlars, Burmese, [253].
• Penyow, [224]
  • —expedition leaves, [246].
• Peoples, Dr, [112] et seq.
• Petchaburi, governor of, [407].
• Petroleum at Kiang Dow and Muang Fang, [333].
• Petticoats, purchasing, [392].
• Phayre, Sir Arthur, on British interests in Siam, [421].
• Phichai, [441].
• Photographic apparatus spoiled, [20].
• Phya Khrut or Garuda, the king of eagles, [234].
• Pigs, wild, ravages of, [186].
• Pillar-Rock, [401].
• Ping Shans, [49].
• Plain, a beautiful, [364].
• Plants, dangerous, in the jungle, [361].
• Play, a Shan, [338].
• Poayhla, [430], [432].
• Portuguese ousted from Burmah, [vii].
• Pottery, manufacture of, [233].
• Prayers, chanting, [452].
• Prices of various articles at Maulmain, Bangkok, and Zimmé, [296].
• Primitive pagoda, a, [308].
• Prince, an intelligent, on the best railway route, [143].
• Princes in their best clothes, [154].
• Princess trader, visit to a, [103]
  • —her opinion on the proposed railway, ib.
  • —friend to the missionaries, [117].
• Principality, ancient, of Hsen, [200].
• Prisdang’s, Prince, letter, [114].
• Prison of Bangkok, [451].
• Prisoners in chains sawing timber, [102].
• Procession of exploring party when entering Kiang Hai, [154].
• Propitiation of spirits, [179].
• Provisions, out of, [358].
• Punishments in the Buddhist hells, [263].
• Purchas’s visit to Zimmé, [vii].
• Quambee, [10].
• Quanta, [3].
• Quinine, value of, [363].
• Races, separation of, in the cities, [352].
• Rachel, a Shan, [228].
• Raheng, [15]
  • —the White Elephant route to, [278]
  • —reach, [404]
  • —leave, [435].
• Railway communication, proposed branch line from Yembine to Tehdau-Sakan, [1]
  • —proposed route of railway from Maulmain, [48]
  • —paths for a railway, [56], [75]
  • —discussion with the King of Zimmé about the railway, [102]
  • —suggested route, [143]
  • —road for a line to China, [151]
  • —Dr Cheek on the prospects of a Burmah-China railway, [170]
  • —branch line to Muang Fang, [184]
  • —benefits of opening up the country by, [196]
  • —chief’s opinion regarding labour, &c., for constructing, [214]
  • —loop-line to Zimmé, [215]
  • —proposed route to Muang Phan, [222]
  • —importance of Penyow in regard to, [232]
  • —route along the valley of the Meh Wung, [251]
  • —how to tap the trade of Muang Nan and Muang Peh, [252]
  • —proposed line from Bangkok viâ Lakon, [255]
  • —Dr Neis on the railway connection of Burmah and China, [278]
  • —cheap labour for the railway, [281]
  • —desire for the projected railway, [292]
  • —a branch line from Lakon, [309]
  • —line from Zimmé to Kiang Hsen, [361]
  • —talk with Prince Bigit on the subject of railways, [381]
  • —routes for the railway, [403]
  • —importance of connecting India with China, [415]
  • —the Indo-Burmese and Burmo-Chinese projects, [416] et seq.
  • —advantages of Maulmain as a terminus, [417]
  • —the Siamese route to Raheng, [418]
  • —Sir Charles Bernard and other authorities on the projected routes, [419] et seq.
  • —character of the Bhamo route, [429]
  • —the Maulmain or nothing, [433]
  • —commercial importance of the proposed railway, [434]
  • —resolutions of Chambers of Commerce on the Burmah-Siam-China Railway, [464] et seq.
• Rain-god Indra, descent of the, [260].
• Rangoon and Mandalay railway, [14].
• Rapids shooting, dangerous, [395] et seq.
• Raspberries, wild, [46].
• Rebellion of the Zimmé Shans against Burmah, [88].
• Religious buildings erected by the Burmese, [124]
  • —ruined, [355].
• Rénan’s, Ernest, ‘New Studies of Religious History’ quoted, p. 57, note.
• Responsibility of villagers for loss and crime in their district, [139].
• Rice-plain, a large, [179].
• Rice-plain of Zimmé, [127]
  • —export of, from Penyow to Lakon, [231].
• Richardson, Dr, [viii].
  • —his visit to Maing Loongyee in 1829, [30].
• Ringworm, [192].
• River, a filthy, [230].
• Robbing an image, [198].
• Romantic princess, a, [117].
• Roses, wild, [247].
• Routes from China, [213].
• Rubies, searching for, [403].
• Ruby-mines, [61], [266].
• Ruins of temples, extensive, near Kiang Hsen, [193].
• Russia and Siam, comparison between, [297].
• Russian railway across Asia, projected, [420].
• Sacred cave of Tum Tap Tow, [342].
• Sacred hills, [182].
• Sacrifices to evil spirits, [22]
  • —to ancestors and demons, [52].
• Salt used as currency in the Zimmé market, [164].
• Salween mountain, [329].
• Salween river, [3], [10].
• Sambhur deer, a, [403].
• Samuel, Thomas, first English visitor to the Shan States, [vii].
• Sapphire-mines, [462].
• Satow, Mr, British consul-general in Siam, [419].
• Sawankalok, [439].
• Scott, Mr (Shwé Yoe), on religious tortures, [380], [445].
• Service, evening, in a temple, [316].
• Settlements, formation of, [220]
  • —method of forming new, [350].
• Sgau Karens, [17].
• Shadow spirit, the, [83].
• Shan dynasties in Burmah, [82].
• Shan ladies, visit to, [321].
• Shan language and its dialects, [312].
• Shan Queen in English dress, [119].
• Shan race, [xv].
• Shan States or kingdoms, [32].
• Shans bartering goods, [46].
• Shaving the head and eyebrows, [304].
• Shoaygoon, [1], [3].
• ‘Siam and Laos,’ by Dr Cheek, quoted, [170].
• Siam, British stake in, [420].
• Siam railways need high embankments, [411].
• Siamese authorities, apathy of, [390].
• Siamese Commissioner, visit the, [113].
• Siamese, description and dress of, [113].
• Siamese frontier post, [20].
• Siamese history, early, [xiii].
• Siamese officials expect bribes, [19].
• Silk-cotton trees, [71].
• Silver coinage in use, [163].
• Silver-mines, [75], [403].
• Siva worship, [319].
• Sketching the scenery of the country, [64].
• Slave-bondage, [131].
• Slavery, gambling a cause of, [238]
  • —the law of Siam, regarding, ib.
  • —parents selling children into, [240].
• Slavery in Bangkok, [452].
• Slaves, price of, [31], [130]
  • —purchased from Red Karens, [388].
• Smallpox, outbreak of, [28]
  • —outbreak of, in Penyow, [232]
  • —callousness of natives as to, [233].
• Smith-work of the Shans, [55].
• Snake, sitting on a, [362].
• Snake-worship, [318].
• Soil and foliage, [146].
• Song Kare, [91].
• Song Kweh, [400].
• Soom Cha, [402].
• Spinning-wheels, emigrants carrying, [363].
• Spirit-clans, formation of, [396].
• Spirit-medium, a, [105].
• Spirit-worship of Ping Shans, [373].
• Spirit-worshippers, [15].
• Spirits alluring travellers, [398].
• Springs, hot, [340].
• Ssumao, a Chinese frontier post, [151].
• Stone images of Buddha, [233].
• Stork, King, [448].
• Story of a yak, [59].
• Story of the peacock and crow, [63].
• Straining water, [323].
• Street, Colonel, [48].
• Subterranean channels, [24].
• Sugar-press, a simple, [74].
• Suicide by no means unusual, [152].
• Sukkhothai, [439].
• Sunday service by Dr M‘Gilvary, [216].
• Superstition, degrading influence of, [82].
• Survey of passes between Siam and Burmah, [391].
• Surveying, [9]
  • —under difficulties, [139].
• Surveys made for the King of Siam by English engineers for railways, [196].
• Sworn brothers, [354].
• Ta Kwai village, [90].
• Ta Nong Hluang ferry, [71].
• Ta Nong Pai, [91].
• Ta Pa or “rock-ferry,” [73].
• Ta Pwee ford, [402].
• Ta Wang Pow, [89].
• Tai Ngio people, [157].
• Tali-foo, [427].
• Tattooing, practice of, [138].
• Taxation in Siam, vexatious, [447].
• Taxation, light, [135]
  • —burdensome, in Siam, [244]
  • —light, in Shan States, [245].
• Taxes in Kiang Hai, [163].
• Tea-growing on the hills to the west of Meh Ping, [369].
• Tea, wild, plant, [24], [320].
• Teaching in a monastery, [304].
• Teak-forests in the Thoungyeen valley, [21]
  • —forests belong to chiefs, [135]
  • —forests, [198].
• Teak-trees, [10] et seq.
• Tee-tee-ko, [16].
• Teh-dan-Sakan, [12], [14], [16].
• Temple, Shan description of a, [66].
• Temple, Sir Richard, on the proposed railway to China, [424].
• Tenasserim division of Burmah, [1].
• Thatone, [4].
• Thoungyeen river, [10]–16, [20] et seq.—, [405].
• Thoungyeen valley, [21].
• Thunderstorm, tremendous, [281].
• Tigers, scaring, [137]
  • —prowling of, [179].
• Timber king, a, and the money-lenders, [28].
• Tobacco, cutting, [57]
  • —caravan laden with, [346].
• Tobacco-gardens, [70].
• Toon Chang, [460].
• Torture at the police courts, [450].
• Tower muskets in use, [311].
• Trade and traffic of Zimmé, [104].
• Trade between British Burmah and Siam, and its Shan states, [117].
• Trade-routes, intersection of, at Kiang Hsen, [195]
  • —to Penyow, [232].
• Trading caravan, a, [11].
• Transmigration of the soul, belief in the, [112].
• Travellers delayed, [296].
• Tree-ferns, [44].
• Trees inhabited by spirits, [110].
• Trial by water, [260].
• Trichinosis, [346].
• Tricks with the currency, [164], [165].
• Tsin-sway, or Elephant-tusk stream, [23].
• Tum Kwan, ceremony of, [373].
• Tutelary gods, belief in, [231].
• Underground rivers, [395].
• Venison for dinner, [15].
• Viang Chai, [336].
• Viang Chaum Taung, [227].
• Viang Ma-nee-ka, [345].
• Viang Moo Bom, city of, [228].
• Viang Pa Pow, [142], [307].
• Viang Pow, [353]
  • —surrounded by a palisade, [364]
  • —population of, [365]
  • —cost of carriage to, [366]
  • —trade-routes from, ib.
• Villages swept away by floods, [412]
  • —a line of, [444].
• Wages of boatmen, [66].
• Wang Hluang Pow, [87].
• War-paths leading from Burmah to Zimmé and Siam, [30].
• Warming of Buddh, the, [265].
• Waterfalls, high, [42], [397].
• Water festival at the New Year, [265].
• Water-parting between the Meh Ping and Meh Kong, [360].
• Water-wheels, [75].
• Wat Phra Chow Toon Hluang, [227].
• Webster, Rev. David, American Baptist Mission, [19] et seq.—390.
• Whistling rockets, [219].
• White Elephant, temple of the, [315].
• Wilson, Rev. Jonathan, [96].
• Witch villages, [143].
• Witchcraft, spirit of, [106]
  • —false charges of, [109]
  • —action of missionaries with respect to, [110].
• Witches considered free agents, [108].
• Woman put in chains, [218].
• Women, shameless, [393].
• Wood-oil, collection and uses of, [249].
• Wood with a horrible odour, [180].
• Wung Hoo-a-Kwai, [74].
• Wung Muang, [321].
• Wung Pan, [74].
• Yain Sa Lin, [35], [42].
• Yaks of Indo-China, [58].
• Yambine river, [11].
• Yare-they-mare hill, [11].
• Yembine valley, excursion in the, [13].
• Yembine village, [14].
• Yingan river, [12].
• Yule, Sir Henry, on the Burmah-Siam-China Railway, [423].
• Yunnanese traders to Maulmain, [210].
• Yunnan-foo, [427].
• Zimmé, arrival at, [93]
  • —our reception, [94]
  • —account, [95] et seq.
  • —population, [98]
  • —visit the king, [101]
  • —discussion on the proposed railway, [102]
  • —departure from, [127].
• Zimmé chain of hills, [56].
• Zimmé, leave, without interpreters, [306].
• Zimmé plain, villages in the, [288].
• Zimmé, Shan state of, and its former extent, [32].
• Zylophone, a native, [322].

---

[1]. In his ‘New Studies of Religious History,’ Ernest Renan points out that the ruins of Ancor, in Southern Indo-China, “are now ascribed with certainty to the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries of our era. In them Sivaism and Buddhism are blended; and Sivaism appears here before Buddhism.” There can be no doubt that Sivaism, or the worship of the hero-gods of the hills, in China and Indo-China, is connected with the ancient religion of the non-Aryan Himalayan hill tribes. Siva was not incorporated by the Brahmans into their pantheon until about the commencement of our era.

[2]. Milton, “Comus,” act i.

[3]. Peh Muang merely means the division or boundary of the States, and is applied to all ranges that form boundaries.

[4]. Siam and Laos, p. 544.

[5]. During the present lawka, or existence of the world, four Buddhas are said to have appeared. The dispensation of each lasts 5000 years. Gaudama Buddha was the last of the four, and his death, according to the Ceylon histories, occurred B.C. 543, but according to Professor Muller, B.C. 477, or a year after that of Confucius. A lawka is a whole revolution of nature. The world, according to Buddhists, is continuously destroyed and reproduced, but each lawka lasts an incalculable length of years.