ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
PORTOW,[6]
AN EXECUTION,[33]
VIEW LOOKING WEST DOWN PASS AT 10.53 A.M. 14TH FEB.,[44]
LOI PWE SEEN OVER A SPUR AT 9.57 A.M. 15TH FEB.,[45]
MEH LAIK VALLEY AND GORGE AT 1.3 P.M. 15TH FEB.,[47]
A VIRGIN OF THE LOTUS-FLOWER,[51]
VIEW ACROSS THE MEH HTO AND MEH LAIK VALLEYS AT 10.54 A.M. 15TH FEB.,[53]
A YAK,[57]
A SIAMESE KING,[59]
VIEW TO THE SOUTH FROM A HILLOCK BEHIND MUANG HAUT,[64]
VIEW FROM NEAR BAN HSOPE KYEM,[72]
LOI HOO-A SOO-A WITH LOI PAH KUNG IN THE BACKGROUND,[77]
VIEW FROM THE TOP OF LOI NOI AT 8 A.M. 23D FEB.,[78]
DOMESTIC UTENSILS,[85]
SPINNING IMPLEMENTS,[86]
VIEW OF LOI SOO TAYP FROM BAN MEH KA,[91]
A SHAN GHOST,[111]
A SHAN HOUSE,[134]
A TA-LAY-OW,[137]
VIEW OF LOI MOK AND THE HEAD OF THE MEH WUNG AT 4.42 P.M. 10TH MARCH,[140]
THE LITTLE ELEPHANT’S FUN,[148]
BAMBOO SHOULDER-TRESTLE,[150]
VIEW OF LOI POO-AY AT 1.3 P.M. 14TH MARCH,[151]
VIEW OF LOI KOOK LOI CHANG AT 1.3 P.M. 14TH MARCH,[152]
VIEW UP THE MEH KHOKE FROM THE SALA AT KIANG HAI,[157]
A LA-HU YOUTH,[160]
A CROWNED BUDDHA,[166]
FISHING IMPLEMENTS, 168,[169]
DROP-NET,[176]
VIEW OF LOI PONG PRA BAT AT 11.11 A.M. 18TH MARCH,[178]
VIEW OF LOI HTONG, LOI YA TOW, AND LOI TA, AT 2.34 P.M. 19TH MARCH,[182]
VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MEH CHUN AT 3.57 P.M. 19TH MARCH,[185]
VIEW OF LOI CHANG NGO AT 4.49 P.M. 20TH MARCH,[186]
PHYA IN OR INDRA,[187]
THE KOO TOW,[188]
VIEW OF LOI CHAN FROM KIANG HSEN,[191]
VIEW OF HILLS EAST OF THE MEH KONG RIVER,[192]
THE GREAT BEND OF THE MEH KONG FROM KIANG HSEN,[193]
RUINS AT KIANG HSEN,[194]
PLASTER DECORATION ON PILLARS,[195]
VIEW OF WESTERN HILLS,[197]
A SHAN HOUSE IN KIANG HSEN,[203]
VIEW OF HILLS WEST OF KIANG HSEN PLAIN FROM PAGODA ON HILL,[206]
CITY ENCLOSURE. SKETCH OF AN ENTRANCE TO KIANG HSEN,[207]
CHINESE PACK-SADDLE,[212]
VIEW UP THE MEH KHOKE FROM KIANG HAI,[217]
ROCKET-STICK OF BAMBOO, FORMED INTO A WHISTLE AT THE TOP,[219]
PHYA NYAK, THE KING OF SERPENTS AND DRAGONS,[227]
TERRA-COTTA PEDESTAL,[233]
PHYA KHRUT OR GARUDA, THE KING OF EAGLES,[234]
EVIL SPIRITS,[259]
A DRYAD,[260]
PUNISHMENTS IN THE BUDDHIST HELLS,[263]
VIEW OF HILLS EAST OF LAKON,[270]
A SHAN QUEEN,[291]
VIEW OF THE HILLS TO THE NORTH-EAST OF ZIMMÉ FROM PEN YUK,[307]
OX DRAWING TIMBER IN FOREST,[308]
VIEW OF THE HEAD OF THE BASIN OF THE MEH WUNG,[309]
VIEW OF THE KYOO HOO LOW AND HILLS EAST OF MEH WUNG,[310]
VIEW OF LOI MUN MOO PASS AND HILLS EAST OF MEH WUNG,[310]
IMPLEMENTS FOR THE USE OF EXPECTANT BUDDHAS,[322]
VIEW OF LOI CHAUM HAUT,[323]
HILLS TO THE NORTH OF THE ZIMMÉ PLAIN FROM THE MEH TENG,[327]
VIEW OF LOI KIANG DOW FROM THE MEH TENG,[328]
VIEW OF HILLS NORTH-WEST OF THE ZIMMÉ PLAIN FROM THE MEH TENG,[329]
LOI CHAUM HAUT FROM BAN MEH MEH,[331]
VIEW OF LOI PA-YAT PA-YAI,[332]
SKETCH OF LOI KIANG DOW AND LOI NAN,[335]
VIEW UP THE VALLEY OF THE MEH PING FROM MUANG NGAI,[339]
VIEW LOOKING SOUTH-WEST FROM MUANG FANG,[349]
JUNCTION OF THE MEH FANG AND MEH KHOKE VALLEYS,[356]
VIEW UP THE MEH FANG VALLEY FROM BAN MEH HANG,[358]
VIEW ACROSS MUANG KEN AND THE VALLEY OF THE MEH PING,[367]
HILLS WEST OF THE MEH PING AT 11.55 A.M. 23D MAY,[368]
VIEW OF HILLS WEST OF THE ZIMMÉ PLAIN AT 4.24 P.M. 23D MAY,[371]
HANUMAN, KING OF MONKEYS,[376]
PROM OR BRAHMA,[376]
PHYA LAK,[377]
PHYA WET SAWAN (VISHNU),[377]
SIAMESE WRESTLERS,[386]
PEE POK-KA-LONG (JUNGLE DEMONS),[398]
LOI PA KHUN BAIT,[400]
EXTREMITY OF SPUR FROM THE WEST RANGE,[401]
SKETCH AT 188½ MILES FROM BAN PAH YANG NEUR,[403]
SKETCH AT 196½ MILES FROM BAN MEH NYAH,[404]
HAND-DREDGE,[435]
VIEW OF HILLS LOOKING EAST AT 218 MILES FROM BAN KOW NOME WAN,[436]
SKETCH AT 216½ MILES FROM BAN TA KARE,[436]
VIEW LOOKING WEST FROM KAMPHANG PET,[440]
LOI KOW CHUNG,[440]
LOI KOW CHUNG,[441]
LOI KOW LUONG,[442]
VIEW FROM THE JUNCTION OF THE MEH NAM,[443]

LIST OF MAPS.

SOUTHERN CHINA AND INDO-CHINA, SHOWING PROPOSED FRENCH AND ENGLISH RAILWAYS, [To face title-page]
MAULMEIN TO MAINGLOONGYEE, To face page [9]
MAINGLOONGYEE TO MAUNG HAUT, „ „ [43]
MAUNG HAUT TO KIANG HSEN, „ „ [69]
KIANG HAI TO LAKON, „ „ [219]
LAKON TO ZIMMÉ, „ „ [283]
ZIMMÉ TO B. MEH HANG, „ „ [315]
, „ „ [392]

A THOUSAND MILES ON AN ELEPHANT IN THE SHAN STATES.

CHAPTER I.

DR CUSHING’S ARRIVAL—A-HENG—LEAVE SHOAYGOON—GOLD AND SILVER CARRIED—FLOOD OF 1877—A BAD DRIVER—DOG OFFERED TO DEMONS—SOUSED IN THE HLINEBOAY—HLINEBOAY—TRADERS—MR BRYCE’S PARTY—ASKED TO JOIN PARTIES—DR CUSHING IN CHARGE OF COMMISSARIAT—LABELLING AND SORTING BASKETS—THE LUGGAGE—MEDICINES—KAREN INTERPRETER—LOADING THE ELEPHANTS—PORTOW AND LOOGALAY—MADRAS BOYS GOOD FIGHTERS.

“Dr Cushing here, sahib! boat coming:” so gasped Veyloo and Jewan, my Madras servants, as they came racing up the staircase of the teak-built court-house at Shoaygoon, where I was enjoying a smoke whilst reclining in my table-armed folding-chair. This chair, which was a miracle of comfort and convenience, together with my camp-bedstead, had been designed and constructed for me by A-heng, a very clever and honest Chinese contractor, who for many years had been employed by me in constructing bridges, court-houses, jails, bazaars, and various other public buildings whilst I was in charge of the Tenasserim division of Burmah. This division, measuring 630 miles in a north and south direction, forms the eastern portion of Lower Burmah, and is bordered on the east by Siam and the Siamese Shan States, through which I was about to journey in search of the best route for a railway to connect Burmah with South-western China.

Following the boys, who had rushed off as soon as they had given me the news, I scrambled down the steep bank of the Salween river, which forms the western boundary of the garden of the court-house, and reached the water’s edge some minutes before the boat stranded at my feet.

“Here we are, together at last!” I exclaimed, as I helped my future companion from the boat; “I do hope you are better. I was so glad you succeeded in persuading the doctor to allow you to come,—I should have been helpless without you.”