Fig. 77.
Fig. 78.
We will suppose that the belt shown in Fig. 75 had a "first end" point that opened on the top of the belt instead of the bottom as this one does (see left-hand end of belt between the clamps, on the lower side); one can easily see how hard it would be to work if the clamp were near the point. There should always be enough room between the clamps to allow the splicer to take the last end (which is always the forked end), carry it entirely over the clamp toward the left in Fig. 75, lay it down on that part of the belt that is outside the clamp and slip an extra splicing board under it. Fasten the two belts and splicing board all together by means of a couple of 8-inch hand-screws (of which every belt splicer should have at least six or eight); then clean and shape it to suit the other end. It can be passed back over the clamp from time to time and tried for a fit.
Fig. 79.
The proper mode of procedure in splicing a belt on the pulleys is as follows: Decide on where the belt is to be opened, and always open it in the worst place in the belt for that is the place you certainly want to fix. Pay no attention whatever to any former splicing place that may be in the belt, but take it apart at any place where you are sure repairs are actually necessary. First put in the most convenient place possible the point that you have decided to open and then put the clamps in position. If you are sure that it is going to require very hard pulling to get it as tight as you wish, take a damp cloth, moisten the inside of the clamps and then sprinkle powdered resin on both upper and lower clamp. Put the "first end" clamp on first, as this is always the easiest point to clean and fit; decide how much you will have to take out, or as near as possible, measure off this amount on the belt and place the clamp this distance plus about 10 inches from the "first end" point. This extra 10 inches will give you plenty of room to clean the glue off and also to shorten up the belt the right amount, for all the shortening must be done on the "first end" point on account of the ease with which the new scarf can be made.
Should you try to shorten up from the "last end" point, by referring to Fig. 78, you can easily see the amount of work you would be in for. There would be two thin ends to scarf, and outside ends at that; whereas if you shorten up from the "first end" you make only one thin end and that one in the inside of the belt.
The first clamp, with the center mark of the clamp coinciding with the center of the belt, should be very tight; for should it slip when the load is put on, it will very probably slip in the middle of the belt and may not slip on the edges at all. Should you glue it in this condition, the chances are very much in favor of the outside edges giving away on a heavy load, due to the middle being too long. After the first clamp is in position and tightened, put on the second one and leave the bolts loose, so that it can be slipped easily. Then put the belt rods in position with just a "full nut" on each end and tighten the clamp. Tighten the rods enough to take most of the load, then get the large splitter shown in Figs. 65 and 66 and open the joint. The place to commence is between X X in Fig. 75; this inclined point is about 4 inches long and must be opened at both ends of the splice before the middle is touched.