The scene was so charming and the morning so lovely we could have lingered there with hours of pleasure. In the distance up the valley we could see the small wooden church of Bœverdal; but Ole is come, and we must away.

Ole equipped for the mountains. He had high Norwegian boots, lacing up, much resembling the ladies’ Alpine tourist boot, but of course of rougher make. Ole had left his dark coat behind him, so as to be more at ease. His trousers were tied round the leg below the knee with pieces of cord; he had his knapsack, wallet, and staff. The photograph represents Ole Halvorsen, of Rödsheim, near Lom, as he appears in his coat. We esteemed ourselves fortunate in having secured the services of a guide in every way trustworthy, and thoroughly acquainted with an extensive region of mountain land. Ole was in the best period of his life, when man’s strength and experience unite in maturity; as the the companion of the reindeer hunter and Alpine tourist he is invaluable; never makes difficulties, speaks English well, will do the best he can to save expense, talks little, but to the purpose, is always ready for a start at whatever early hour you name. Turning along the mountain road from the valley to the left of the church, we overtook Noah and Zachariah. We were told that service is performed in the church every fourth Sunday. It was built, Ole said, for 2000 dollars; 500 dollars from Government, 500 dollars secured by a chief rent, and 1000 dollars contributed by the inhabitants. Not much of our morning route had been accomplished, when we came to a narrow bridge over a wild, rapid, foaming, torrent, rushing over a declivity. Vain was our attempt to get any of the donkeys over the bridge. It was amusing to see the fierce contention; gipsies pulling, gipsies pushing, Ole and ourself mixed up in the general struggle without avail. Then we determined to force them through the torrent, which rushing swiftly over large stones, and then falling in cascades below, was difficult to wade. We could not remain all day. One donkey was forced in, and got safe through; another, also, but the third, which was rather heavily laden, would not stir till Mephistopheles suddenly jumped on the top of the baggage. The donkey was soon staggering through, guided by Zachariah in the rough rocks of the stream. For a moment, the animal faltered in its foot-hold. Are they both to be carried down the roaring cascades? Another plunge, and by good fortune, the donkey reached firm ground and more shallow water; they were soon safely landed.

Very thankful we were that Zachariah had come out of the adventure safely. We had no desire to lose our Mephistopheles, and if he had not suddenly mounted on the spur of the moment we should have prevented him from incurring such a risk.

The route was delightful; sometimes through forest scenes and along the mountain stream, till at last we came to the Elv Sœter at about half-past twelve o’clock.

The Elv Sœter is now a large farm, though originally it was, as the name indicates, probably nothing but a mountain sœter.

CHAPTER XXXII.

What if in yonder chief, of tattered vest,
Glows the same blood that warmed a Pharaoh’s breast?—
If in the fiery eye, the haughty mien,
The tawny hue of yonder gipsy queen,
Still dwells the light of Cleopatra’s charms,
The winning grace that roused the world to arms—
That called Rome’s legions to a watery grave,
And bound earth’s lord to be a woman’s slave?
Dean Stanley’s Prize Poem, “The Gipsies.”

THE ELV SŒTER—A MOUNTAINEER—THE YTTERDAL SŒTER—TO MAKE GRÖD—THE GRÖD STICK—EVENING CONCERT—A WILD NIGHT—THE WATERFALL—MOUNTAIN GLACIERS—THE LERA ELV—CAMP BY A GLACIER—NOMADIC HAPPINESS—A GIPSY MÄELSTROM—INSECT LIFE.

The wooden buildings are large and capacious and in good order, and one portion of the building was surmounted by a cupola, with a large bell to call the farm people to meals. We noticed two enormous pine-tree logs as we passed through the yard of the farm. Near a log hut, a short distance beyond the farm-house, we camped at the edge of the deep, narrow ravine, in the depth of which we could hear the sound of the river below. Ole said we could have some reindeer meat, and, going to the farm, we were shown a cask half full of salted reindeer, in a dark store under a sort of granary. For one mark we purchased about four pounds weight, without bone. There was a kind of crate near, with a small gröd span in it, a sort of barrel for carrying food. We afterwards purchased a rope made of pigs’ bristles, very light and useful, and nine pounds of barley-meal, and another mark’s worth of reindeer meat. The whole cost—

m.s.
Rope of pigs’ bristles212
9 lbs. barley meal112
Reindeer meat, about 8 lbs.20
———
Total$110