About eight o’clock we came in sight of Rödsheim. It is a substantial wooden house, with capacious out-buildings, near an excellent mountain road. The house stands at the foot of a rocky hill at the head of an ascent where the valley becomes narrow. On the other side the road, close to the house, the Bœver Elv dashes through a deep cleft of narrow gorge in the rocks. There is no fishing in the glacier water of the river. The house at Rödsheim was very clean and well ventilated. Ole well knew the English penchant, especially of the mountain tourist. The comfortable guest chamber of his house had always its open window, with pleasant View down the valley.
Ole Rödsheim[90] was ready to receive us. He pointed out a convenient camping ground a short distance beyond the house, just below the road, close upon the edge of the precipice of the ravine. It suited us exactly. Ole knew it. He had not been camping with us some days without knowing the foibles of our heart.
“There’s the spot for the Herre.”
Ole was quite right; and the roaring waters of Bœverdal Elv in the stillness of that night hushed our party to sleep. Our tents were quickly pitched by our gipsies. The pige from the house brought us firewood. We had eggs, bread and butter, and tea, for our evening’s meal. Ole Rödsheim brought out a bottle of his home-brewed beer. We had one glass each, for we shared everything with our party. It was excellent beer. Then we went to the house, and made acquaintance with Mrs. Rödsheim, a quiet, pale, industrious helpmate. She appeared an excellent housewife. After a chat with Ole, we returned to our camp. Our music enlivened the quiet valley before we retired to rest.
Mephistopheles was in sad tribulation. May it be recorded, that the evening before, the hat from Christy’s of London, purchased in Norway, which had cost us one dollar, was blown into the ravine, and had disappeared. It was an occurrence which could not long be concealed. The hat must be produced some time, or accounted for. We certainly were annoyed when he confessed the fact. Something was said about the owner going to Christiania without one. Ultimately the Rye relented. Ole Rödsheim lent Zachariah a cloth military-looking cap, which was afterwards purchased second-hand for less than half the price of the hat lost.
Sunday morning at Rödsheim. We were up in good time. How we enjoyed our breakfast in the rocks at the edge of the deep ravine. The day was very hot. It was the last day of July. Most of the peasants would be actively engaged next month in their harvests. Ole came occasionally to see that we had everything we wished. Once Ole said, in a melancholy tone, he wished to speak with me aside. We went with him away from the tents, and he placed in our hands a blacked-edged letter, saying it might contain bad news, and we might wish to be alone when we received it. Fortunately, the emblem of mourning referred to past events already known. Yet we did not think the less of Ole’s kind thought. Some peasants came to see our camp and the donkeys. All was quietude and peace at Rödsheim.
One of the points to be attained in our line of travel, was the ascent of the highest mountain in Norway, the Galdhöpiggen, or pike of Galdhö. Who Galdhö was we could not ascertain.[91] Although we were unsuccessful in obtaining the origin of the name, we determined, if possible, to make the ascent of this mountain.
It was arranged that we should start at nine o’clock at night, Ole, ourself, and Noah, for the expedition. Esmeralda and Zachariah to be left in care of the tents.
At mid-day we had ham, eggs, and potatoes for dinner, close to our camp. On the edge of the ravine stood a small log-hut used as a blacksmith’s shop. Since our kettle prop had been lost, we had substituted two Alpine stocks with a wire between them for boiling our water for tea. It was a clumsy substitute, which necessity imposed upon us. Ole now arranged that a blacksmith should make us another prop before we left Rödsheim.
At nine o’clock Ole was ready, and ourself and Noah were each armed with an Alpine stock. Each took a small supply of bread and goat’s cheese. Making our adieu to Esmeralda and Zachariah, we were soon en route up the valley.