CONTENTS

CHAPTERPAGE
I. Preparation and Approach[3]
II. The Muldrow Glacier[25]
III. The Northeast Ridge[53]
IV. The Grand Basin[80]
V. The Ultimate Height[92]
VI. The Return[117]
VII. The Height of Denali, with a Discussion
of the Readings on the Summit
and During the Ascent[141]
VIII. Explorations of the Denali Region
and Previous Attempts at its Ascent[157]
IX. The Names Placed upon the Mountain
by the Author[180]

ILLUSTRATIONS

Ice fall of nearly four thousand feet by which the upper or Harper Glacier
discharges into the lower or Muldrow Glacier (photogravure)[Frontispiece]
FACING
PAGE
The author and Mr. H. P. Karstens[4]
Tatum, Esaias, Karstens, Johnny, and Walter, at the Clearwater Camp[8]
Striking across from the Tanana to the Kantishna[12]
One of the abandoned mining towns in the Kantishna[14]
Denali from the McKinley fork of the Kantishna River[16]
Entering the range by Cache Creek[18]
The base camp at about 4,000 feet on Cache Creek[20]
Some heads of game killed at the base camp[22]
The Muldrow Glacier. Karstens in the foreground[26]
Ascension Day, 1913[30]
Bridging a crevasse on the Muldrow Glacier[32]
Hard work for dogs as well as men on the Muldrow Glacier[34]

The Northeast Ridge shattered by the earthquake in July, 1912[40]
Cutting a staircase three miles long in the ice of the shattered ridge[52]
The shattered Northeast Ridge[56]
Camp at 13,000 feet on Northeast Ridge[60]
A dangerous passage[64]
The Upper Basin reached at last. Our camp at the Parker Pass at 15,000 feet[72]
Above all the range except Denali and Denali’s Wife[76]
Traverse under the cliffs of the Northeast Ridge to enter the Grand Basin[82]
First camp in the Grand Basin—16,000 feet, looking up[84]
Second camp in the Grand Basin—looking down, 16,500[86]
Third camp in the Grand Basin—17,000 feet, showing the shattering of the glacier walls by the earthquake[88]
The North Peak, 20,000 feet high[90]
The South Peak from about 18,000 feet[94]
The climbing-irons[98]
Denali’s Wife from the summit of Denali (photogravure)[102]
Robert Tatum raising the Stars and Stripes on the highest point in North America[104]