The Beaver, Vol. 1, No. 10, July, 1921

by Hudson's Bay Company

The Yukon is the largest river that flows from the American continent into the Pacific ocean. Rising as the Pelly in the Rocky Mountains on the northern frontier of British Columbia, it maintains a westerly direction for several hundred miles.

It crosses the 141st meridian, which forms the eastern boundary of Alaska, and holding a northwest course for more than six hundred miles, it is joined by the Porcupine river from the north. Up to this point it is called the Pelly, but for the remaining 1200 miles of its course to its embouchure in Behring Sea it is known as the Yukon.

After the failure of previous efforts to establish a Hudson's Bay Company's trading post at Dease's Lake, I volunteered my services for that purpose; and in the spring of 1839, after overcoming many difficulties, I succeeded in my mission, and then crossed over the mountains to the west side, where I struck the source of a rapid river, which I ascertained from the hordes of Indians I met to be the Stikene (afterwards the great highway to the northern gold fields of British Columbia), a discovery which caused no small commotion and surprise at the time among H.B.C. men, especially from the fact that a young man with only a half-breed and two Indian lads had effected what had baffled well-equipped parties under prominent and experienced Hudson's Bay officers from both sides of the mountains. This led to part of the coast being leased by the Company from the Russian government.

On returning to Dease's Lake, we passed a winter of constant danger from the savage Russian Indians and of much suffering from starvation. We were dependent for subsistence on what animals we could catch, and, failing that, on "tripe de roche." We were at one time reduced to such dire straits that we were obliged to eat our parchment windows, and our last meal before abandoning Dease's Lake, on 8th May, 1839, consisted of the lacing of our snowshoes.

In the spring of 1840 I was appointed by Sir George Simpson to explore the north branch of the Liard river to its source, and to cross the Rocky Mountains and try to find any river flowing westward, especially the headwaters of the Colville, the mouth of which was in the Arctic ocean, discovered by Dease and Simpson.

In pursuance of these instructions I left Fort Halkett in May with a canoe and seven men, among them my trusty Indians, Lapie and Kitza, and the interpreter Hoole. After ascending the stream some hundreds of miles, far into the mountains, we entered a beautiful lake, which I named Frances lake, in honor of Lady Simpson. The river thus far is rather serpentine, with a swift current, and is flanked on both sides by chains of mountains, which rise to a higher altitude in the background. The country is well wooded with poplar, spruce, pine, fir and birch. Game and fur-bearing animals are abundant, especially beaver, on the meat of which, with moose, deer, geese and ducks, we generally lived.

The mountain trout are very fine and plentiful, and are easily taken with a hook and any bait. About five miles farther on the lake divides into two branches round "Simpson's Tower." The south, which is the longer branch, extends forty miles. Leaving the canoe and part of the crew near the southwest extremity of this branch, I set out with three Indians and the interpreter.

Shouldering our blankets and guns, we ascended the valley of a river which we traced to its source in a lake ten miles long, which, with the river, I named Finlayson's lake and river. The lake is situated so near the watershed that in high floods its waters flow from both ends down both sides of the mountains towards the Arctic on the one hand and the Pacific on the other.

From this point we descended the west slope of the Rocky Mountains, and on the second day from Finlayson's lake we had the satisfaction of seeing from a high bank a splendid river in the distance. I named the bank from which we caught the first glimpse of the river "Pelly Banks," and the river "Pelly River," after our home governor, Sir H. Pelly.

I may mention, in passing, that Sir George Simpson in a kind letter called them both after me, "Campbell's Banks and River," but in my reply I disclaimed all knowledge of any such places. After reaching the actual bank of the river, we constructed a raft, on which we embarked and drifted down a few miles on the bosom of the stream, and at parting we cast in a sealed tin can with memoranda of our discovery and the date.