At this place Dr. Morrison was taken very unwell, and had slight symptoms of fever. The caboceer made us a present of two hogs and some yams. We observed here some women very oddly marked, having small raised dots, like wens, across the forehead, about half an inch apart; those on the cheek about an inch. They are made by cutting and lifting the skin.
Tuesday, 13th.—This morning Dr. Morrison was better, and we left Bidgie in the canoes. The road from this place was through a dry swamp nearly the whole way. The sun was very oppressive, and I had sent my umbrella on. About midday I sat down in the shade, quite exhausted by the heat, when a horseman came up; he kindly dismounted, and gave me his horse, while he walked with me to the village of Atalioboloo, where the baggage and people were halted, waiting for carriers to come from the next town. I procured rooms in the principal man’s house for Captain Pearce and Dr. Morrison, who were indisposed. This town is surrounded with plantations of yams and corn; numbers of people were on the road going to the market at Bidgie. The carriers having arrived from Laboo, the sick, and the greater part of the baggage, sent forward, Houtson and I followed in hammocks; the road lying through fine plantations of yams, and nearly as level as a bowling-green. In the evening I was met by the Jannah messenger, with an officer of the caboceer of Laboo, bringing horses for the party: we got out of our hammocks and mounted. I was the only one that had a saddle, but it was so hard and the stirrups so short, that it became a question which of us had the best bargain. We soon arrived at the town of Laboo, which stands on an eminence, and is the cleanest we have seen since we first set foot in Africa. The country has now become beautiful, rising into hill and dale, from which there are some fine views: part of our road lay through large plantations of corn and yams and fine avenues of trees.
At 7 P.M. we arrived at Laboo. The approach to the town appeared by the moonlight quite enchanting, being through an avenue of tall majestic trees, with fetish houses placed here and there, and solitary lights burning by each. On entering the town we were taken to the caboceer’s house, where he was sitting under his verandah ready to receive us, and the house was crowded with spectators; he rose as high as the roof would admit, welcomed us to his country, and said he was glad to see us. We told him there was one sick gentleman behind, and requested he would send lights, and people to assist to bring him up. In less than two hours Dr. Morrison arrived; and having received a present of a pig and five baskets of yams, we prepared our supper and went to bed.
Wednesday, 14th.—The morning raw and cold; Morrison a little better; Captain Pearce and my servant Richard Lander taken ill. After daylight the caboceer sent to inquire after our health, and at 10 A.M. we paid him a visit. We found him in the same place we saw him last night. The whole of the verandah and square was full of people, except a small space for those who came to prostrate themselves. In the centre of the square was a large baboon and pole, and a forked stick, with water for pigeons, that were continually flying about our heads. Behind the caboceer sat about two hundred of his wives and concubines. He was sitting on a mat, reclining on a large round pillow, one of each of which he immediately ordered for us. We sat down beside him and gave him a glass of grog, which he drank off with great relish, turning himself round so that his own people might not see him drink. We handed a few glasses more to his ladies, and a goblet full to his headmen, who were sitting in front with all the marks of their morning’s salutation of their master. Their obeisance is a complete prostration of the body at full length on the ground, with the chin resting on the hands, turning one cheek to the ground, then the other, and finally to bestow a kiss on their mother earth and rise. Before entering the caboceer’s presence their heads must be covered with dust or clay. He told us he had a house at Eyeo, and that half his wives were there. When he spoke in a complimentary way to us, all the people clapped their hands joyfully. When we told him that a white man had only one wife, he and the whole people, with his wives, laughed immoderately. After staying with him an hour we took our leave, giving him two bottles of rum, and a promise of something more when the baggage arrived. The town of Laboo is large, and stands on a rising ground on the top of a small hill, and in some parts commands an extensive view, particularly to the south, which is low and flat. Lagos, we were told, can be reached in one day by a messenger.
Thursday, 15th.—Our sick better: at eight, sent them off in the hammocks: at nine, started on horseback, but waited a short time for the caboceer, who came mounted, but without stirrups. He attended us some distance out of town with the whole population of Laboo around him, the women singing in chorus and holding up both hands as we passed; and groups of people were kneeling down and apparently wishing us a good journey. The country well cultivated and beautiful, rising into hill and dale: from the tops of the hills we had distant views, the road leading through plantations of millet, yams, calavances, and Indian corn.
On arriving at Jannah about noon, I found our poor sick halted in the palaver house, which is an open shed, surrounded by thousands of people making a great noise. Here we had to wait about an hour before the caboceer made his appearance, which however at last he did, gorgeously arrayed in a large yellow silken shirt and red velvet cap; with a silver mounted and silver wrought kind of horsewhip ornamented with beads, in one hand, and a child’s silver bells in the other, which he rattled or shook when he spoke: he was seated on a large leathern cushion, which was placed on a mat covered with scarlet cloth. On the cloth I was going to sit down, but the ladies very unceremoniously whipt it from under me, and I squatted myself on the mat; his female attendants sung in chorus very beautifully: the drummers were at a more respectable distance, and the whole space in front of his house was covered with people. Here also were the worshippers, who paid their respects in due form to their master, going out and coming in three times. We shook hands with him. He said he was glad to see us; that whatever we had to say to the king of Eyeo we must first deliver to him; that if he approved of our palaver, so would the king; but if not, neither would the king of Eyeo. This seemed somewhat ungracious and consequential, especially when coupled with his apparent inattention while the interpreter was speaking to him: but on our explaining to him that we had nothing of particular importance to say to the king of Eyeo beyond a request that he would accept the king of England’s respects, and grant a passage through his country, he said all was right; that he was glad we should see the king of Eyeo’s face; that God would give us a good path, and that he would forward us right on without any trouble. We then asked him for a house: he said he would give us into the hands of his principal servant, who would lend us his house, to which we went. We found it pretty well occupied with people, but there was a room each for the sick, and Houtson and I took up our quarters in the verandah. In the evening we were visited by the caboceer incognito. He was now quite a different man: his servant Akoni, who had come with us from Badagry, sat down, and the caboceer made a seat of his knee. He now conversed freely, gave us a great deal of good advice, and spoke of God more like a christian than a pagan. He said that the king of Eyeo would not allow us to go through his dominions, but that he would give us horses and carriers to bring us to the king; but that the Eyeo people were unaccustomed to carry hammocks, and we must go on horseback. He repeatedly assured us of safe conduct to Eyeo, and said we might start to-morrow if our sick were well. We then gave him the greatest part of our string of coral, which in this country is highly esteemed. Mr. Houtson learnt this evening that a message had arrived to the caboceer from some part of the coast, probably Lagos or Dahomy, advising him that the Englishmen were going to make war upon the king of Eyeo, and that we might perhaps kill the king: this, I apprehend, was the reason why he was so positive in wanting to know our business with the king of Eyeo.
Friday, 16th.—Morning raw and hazy. We this morning received two goats, a hog, and a large quantity of yams, ten fowls and two pigeons. We are visited by a great number of the town’s-people; and whenever we show ourselves out of the house we are followed by an immense crowd. We received a present of a goat and a quantity of yams from the town’s-people. In the evening Mr. Houtson and I took a walk through the town: we were followed by an immense crowd, which gathered as we went along, but all very civil; the men taking off their caps, the women kneeling on their knees and one elbow, the other elbow resting upon the hand. In returning we came through the market, which, though nearly sunset, was well supplied with raw cotton, country cloths, provision, and fruit, such as oranges, limes, plantains, bananas; and vegetables, such as small onions, chalotes, pepper, and gums for soups; also, boiled yams and accassons. Here the crowd rolled on like a sea, the men jumping over the provision baskets, the boys dancing under the stalls, the women bawling, and saluting those who were looking after their scattered goods, yet no word or look of disrespect to us.
Saturday, 17th.—Morning clear. Captain Pearce much better; Richard worse. Dr. Morrison bled Richard in the temple in the evening, but he has had no relief.
Sunday, 18th.—Our patients to-day a little better. The town of Jannah stands on the side of a gentle hill, commanding an extensive view to the west; the view to the east is interrupted by thick woods. The inhabitants are apparently civil and industrious, and may amount from 8000 to 10,000. They are great carvers; their doors, drums, and every thing of wood is carved. It has formerly been surrounded by a wall and ditch: the gate and ditch are now all that remain. The streets are irregular and narrow; the houses occupying a large space, and in the same form as those of Puka. Here, amongst the Yarribanies, is the poor dog treated with respect, and made the companion of man; here he has collars around his neck of different colours, and ornamented with cowries, and sits by his master, and follows him in all his journeys and visits. The great man is never without one, and it appeared to me a boy was appointed to take care of him. In no other country of Africa, that I have been in, is this faithful animal treated with common humanity.
Owing to a Brazilian brig having arrived at Badagry for slaves, the people here have been preparing themselves for two days to go on a slaving expedition to a place called Tabbo, lying to the eastward.