9th.—At six in the morning left Womba, accompanied by the messenger; and at six in the evening, crossing a large river, halted on the south side, and fixed our tent amidst a number of grass huts, similar to those mentioned on the sixth. In the night burnt them to the ground, in order to destroy the mosquitoes and vermin, which annoyed us exceedingly.
10th.—Started at the same hour as yesterday, and halted in the town of Beari at 2 P.M. Instead of journeying in a south-west direction to Youri, took another road, and kept due south, having been informed that a party of merchants had been plundered, and many of them murdered, on the road I intended taking. The chief sent me a sheep, a Muscovy duck, a quantity of yams, and some beer made from Indian corn. Returned him one yard of scarlet and blue silk, a scarlet cap, and four prints, which much delighted him. As soon as one of the head men was aware of my approach to the king’s residence, he blew a shrill and loud blast through a long brass trumpet, the noise of which brought all the principal male inhabitants to the spot, who entered the hut, and seated themselves in a circle round their sovereign and myself. The chief is a fine looking man, apparently about fifty years of age, with a noble expression of countenance, and a commanding air. The coozie into which I was introduced is the largest I had ever seen in Africa, being not less, I should think, than eighty yards in circumference. A man stood by the side of the chief while I remained, who repeated to him what I had to say, and the answers were returned to me by the same individual: this singular custom is, I believe, peculiar to Beari, as I never observed it in any other town in Africa. The chief asked the usual questions about my king and country. The town is surrounded by a high wall and a deep ditch, and contains about four thousand inhabitants, some of whom had seen us before at Womba.
11th.—At six in the morning continued our journey, and arrived at Ragada at two in the afternoon. Remained outside the walls, in order that the horses might feed on the rich grass which grew in abundance on the spot. The chief wished me to lodge with him in the town; but, for the reason above stated, did not accept his invitation. The walls of the town are about three miles in circumference.
12th.—In passing through the town this morning, at 6 A.M., waited on the chief, who was delighted to see me, and gave me a sheep, some fowls, and a jar of gear (a beer made from Indian corn), and offered me a messenger, which I declined. Journeyed onwards without halting, till we pitched our tent a little to the west of Wittesa, at three in the afternoon. It began to rain about an hour after leaving Ragada, and continued with great violence till after sunset. Although the portmanteaus were defended by a thick bullock’s hide, every thing in them, with the exception of the papers, became completely soaked. Here I met with a party of merchants going to Koulfa.
13th.—Remained here to-day to dry our tent, clothes, &c. Boussa Jack, the horse which was presented to my late master by the king of Boussa, became dangerously ill. I bled him profusely, and in the evening he was much revived. Sold an unwritten journal-book and a few needles for 2000 cowries.
A man from the town in a state of intoxication came to my tent this evening, with a calabash of bum, and insisted, in an insolent tone, that I should come out and drink with him. Being busily engaged in packing up the articles that had been put out to dry, I did not choose to oblige him so far. When he found I had no inclination to leave the tent, he said he was determined to come in. Wishing to intimidate the fellow, I took a loaded pistol, and went to him, threatening to shoot him unless he immediately left the place; but this, instead of having the desired effect, only exasperated him the more; and flourishing a long spear he had with him over his head, as quick as lightning he made a desperate thrust at me. Slipping a little on one side, I caught the weapon in my hands, within an inch of my breast, which saved my life. I was highly incensed at this violent act, and told the people who stood by, and were spectators of the whole affair, that if they did not that moment take him from the tent, I would shoot him in earnest: half a dozen of them accordingly dragged him away. Next morning the fellow returned, and throwing himself at my feet, begged I would not inform Sultan Magie of his conduct; for if it came to his ears he would lose his head. I forgave him, on condition that he should never get tipsy again.
14th.—Struck our tent at six in the morning, and passing through the ruins of a large town called Kabojie at twelve at noon, reached Dogo at three in the afternoon; but stopping only to pay the accustomed duty, halted a little to the westward of it. In the evening several respectable females of the town came to the tent, with tuah and stewed beef, for which I gave them a few beads.
15th.—At seven in the morning proceeded on our route, and arrived at Coulfo at two in the afternoon. I was met at the gates by the female in whose house we lodged on our way to Kano, accompanied by the most respectable of her sex in the town. They expressed the most lively joy at seeing me; but when I told them that my father was dead, they were deeply affected, and made loud lamentations. Although the town was full of merchants, and her own house occupied with some of them, this kind old woman turned out her lodgers, and gave me the best apartment in it. These merchants came from Cuttum Kora, Youri, Kano, Soccatoo, Borgou, and Yariba, to purchase Nyffé cloth, which is the best in central Africa, iron bits and stirrups, brass ornaments for saddles and bridles, and brass ear and common rings: this traffic is carried on to a considerable extent. The good old chief sent me fowls, tuah, milk, and bum: my hostess gave me a sheep; and during my stay, this excellent old lady sent me provisions daily.
Remained at Coulfo five days, and finding my Yariba pony, and the bullock the king of Zegzeg had given me, unfit to bear the fatigues of a journey to the sea-coast, exchanged the bullock and an old Turkish jacket for a couple of asses; but could not dispose of the pony, although I offered to sell him for a dollar. The morning before my departure found poor little Boussa Jack dead outside my hut. It was with the utmost reluctance my hostess would part with me; and I left her with a promise of returning in two years. She gave me an order to purchase looking-glasses, &c. for her on my arrival in England, which I was to bring with me; all which I promised to do. Gave her a dollar to make a ring, and half a yard of scarlet damask. I took to the old chief a scarlet cap and one of my late master’s turbans, and begged he would not compel me to visit Sultan Magie at Sanson, as I had nothing to give him. He replied, if I did not wish to visit the sultan, to leave as soon as possible, or he might send messengers for me. Sold 5000 cowries worth of needles to assist me on my journey.
20th.—Having paid my respects to the king last evening, left Coulfo, in high spirits and good health, at six in the morning, and halted outside Makonja at five in the afternoon. Here I found a party of merchants going to Gonja, near Ashantee, for gora nuts. Unable to procure any kind of provisions in the town, I took my gun and shot a heron; not being aware that this, being a fetish bird, is allowed to be eaten only by the chiefs. On being made acquainted with the circumstance, one of the principal inhabitants came with a loaded gun, and threatened to shoot me, making use of the most abusive language. I dared him to fire, and said I should complain to Sultan Magie of his conduct.