The following pages are a record of a visit to Greenland, made in the summer of 1869, with a small party of friends, in the steam-yacht of Mr. William Bradford, whose widely celebrated pictures of Arctic scenery have received such deserved commendation; for, whether we consider the difficulties of the subject which that artist has undertaken, or the unusual exposures and hazards he has encountered, his success has been commensurate with his zeal, talent, and unflagging energy.

Since Mr. Bradford was desirous only of obtaining materials for his easel, the voyage was a leisurely one, being mostly near the coast, where halts were from time to time made at such places as presented special attractions to the painter. The summer was therefore devoted to the study of the picturesque rather than to the scientific; yet numerous opportunities were afforded in the latter direction, especially with respect to observing the formation of Greenland glaciers and icebergs—subjects which have not hitherto received much attention. Facilities never before enjoyed by Americans were also obtained for visiting the site of the colonies of the ancient Northmen, who occupied that country from the tenth to the fifteenth centuries, and whose restless love of adventure led them even so far from their native homes as our own shores, at least five hundred years before the renowned voyage of Columbus.

Our range of the Greenland coast was more than a thousand miles, terminating a good way beyond the last outpost of civilization on the globe, in the midst of the much dreaded “ice-pack” of Melville Bay.


CONTENTS.


PART THE FIRST.

RUINS.

[CHAPTER I.]

PAGE

Ice and Breakers

17

[CHAPTER II.]

Free from Danger

20

[CHAPTER III.]

A hopeful Town in a hopeless Place

26

[CHAPTER IV.]

Eric the Red

39

[CHAPTER V.]

“The Arctic Six”

45

[CHAPTER VI.]

Up the Fiord in an Oomiak

51

[CHAPTER VII.]

The Ruins of Ericsfiord

62

[CHAPTER VIII.]

The Northmen in Greenland

71

[CHAPTER IX.]

The Northmen in America

77

[CHAPTER X.]

The Last Man

82

[CHAPTER XI.]

A Disconsolate Lover

92

[CHAPTER XII.]

The Church at Julianashaab

98

[CHAPTER XIII.]

A Greenland Parliament

101

[CHAPTER XIV.]

A Greenland Ball

112


PART THE SECOND.

PALACES OF NATURE.

[CHAPTER I.]

Ice and Snow

125

[CHAPTER II.]

Glaciers and Icebergs

129

[CHAPTER III.]

The Solitary Hut of Peter Motzfeldt

137

[CHAPTER IV.]

The Glacier

146

[CHAPTER V.]

Crossing the Glacier

153

[CHAPTER VI.]

Speculations

166

[CHAPTER VII.]

Measurements of Glaciers

172

[CHAPTER VIII.]

The Birth of an Iceberg

175

[CHAPTER IX.]

A Narrow Escape

179

[CHAPTER X.]

Icebergs Critically Examined

186

[CHAPTER XI.]

Man versus Mosquitoes

197

[CHAPTER XII.]

A Picnic on the Glacier

201

[CHAPTER XIII.]

Bound for the Arctic Circle

206


PART THE THIRD.

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

[CHAPTER I.]

Across the Arctic Circle

215

[CHAPTER II.]

Beyond Civilization

240

[CHAPTER III.]

Ice-Navigation

253

[CHAPTER IV.]

Hunting by Steam

263

[CHAPTER V.]

Among the Ice-fields of Melville Bay

284

[CHAPTER VI.]

The Last White Man

294

[CHAPTER VII.]

The Fiord of Aukpadlartok

309

[CHAPTER VIII.]

Upernavik

318

[CHAPTER IX.]

Disco Island

328

[CHAPTER X.]

Jacobshavn

339

[CHAPTER XI.]

A Week at Godhavn

348


ILLUSTRATIONS.


PAGE
[The “Panther” among the Icebergs]Frontispiece.
[View of Julianashaab]27
[The Oomiak and Crew]46
[View of the Old Norse Ruins]63
[Ground-plan of Ruins]67
[Concordia at the Picnic]93
[A Greenland Parliament in Session]104
[Concordia Dressed for the Ball]119
[Front View of the Glacier]147
[Crossing the Crevasse on an Ice-bridge]160
[Map of the Glacier]162
[The Glacier of Sermitsialik]167
[Vertical Section of Glacier]170
[The Kryolite Mine at Arsut Fiord]207
[The Peak of Kresarsoak]221
[Entering the Fiord]224
[The Lumme of the Arctic Sea]226
[Shooting Lumme]228
[Esac]231
[Esac’s Hut]233
[The Governor and Family]238
[View of Upernavik and Kresarsoak]241
[Eider-ducks]247
[The Polar Bear]254
[Seals]256
[The Devil’s Thumb]261
[The Panther after the Bears]268
[The Captain after the Bear]278
[Moored to a Floe in Melville Bay]287
[The Iceberg Castle]291
[We Steam away from the Midnight Sun] 295
[The most Northern House on the Globe]299
[Jensen and his Family]303
[An Arctic Witch]307
[We go through an Iceberg to call on Philip]310
[Philip, the Hunter, and his Sons]312
[The Raven]317
[Hans and his Family]322
[The Great Auk]337
[Iceberg in Jacobshavn Fiord]347