Early planting of Asters is to be strongly recommended, as the early plants are not subject to the dreaded Aster disease or to attacks of the black beetle, which often destroy all the flowers of a late bed in a single day.
A teaspoonful of Paris green in the watering-pot, sprinkled on at night or very early in the morning, will usually rid the plants of their unwelcome guests, or they may be brushed off into a pan of water containing a small quantity of kerosene—which is fatal to them. They are sluggish, especially in the early morning, dropping to the ground when touched, and easily killed. The point is to take them in time, and the appearance of the first beetle should be the signal for active operations.
For early flowers the seed may be planted in the hotbed, flats, or cold-frame in March or April, covering an eighth of an inch deep and keeping rather cool. They germinate in from five to seven days, and when the plants have attained their second pair of true leaves they should be transplanted, setting an inch or two apart in the flats or bed. Transplant again when the leaves close up the gaps between them, setting three or four inches apart according to their growth. If possible, transplant a third time, as this frequent moving serves to produce a great quantity of feeding roots, at the same time checking the top growth and making a stocky plant with stiff stems. Transplant when the weather is favourable into a well-prepared bed of sandy loam enriched with old manure, or a bed of woods earth. Set a foot apart each way, except in the case of the branching Asters, which should be at least two feet apart.
Sprinkle ashes freely, and as long as there is room to work between the rows cultivate once or twice a week. They may then be mulched with lawn clippings to keep down the weeds for the rest of the season. If they are planted in woods earth they will need only such cultivation as is necessary to keep down the weeds. Do not let them suffer for water at any period of their growth, and remove all flowers as they fade.
Ageratums (Floss Flower) are almost indispensable for edgings, window-boxes, vases, and for filling out beds of Heliotrope. The dwarf or Tom Thumb are the most desirable for edgings. Princess Caroline, Swanley Blue, and Little Dorrit are the best of this class in the blue or lavender shades. The white does not show a good, clear colour under a hot sun, and is therefore not desirable. For early plants sow in flats or in the hotbed early in spring. Later seed may be sown in the open ground when the trees are in bloom, and transplanted when large enough. Sow broadcast, covering the seed lightly and pressing it into the soil. They germinate in from three to five days, and may be grown on until time to transplant into permanent quarters. Though they may start somewhat spindly, they quickly regain their dwarf and stocky character in the open ground. Set plants from eight to ten inches apart in the row. If the flower heads are removed as fast as they fade plants will bloom from early June until cut down by frost.
Balsams (Lady Slipper), like Asters, are greatly benefited by frequent transplanting, and one at least they must have. Start seed early in the hotbed or flats, or later, when the trees are in bloom, in protected beds in the open ground. Transplant at least once in the seed-beds; twice, if possible. When danger of frost is past remove to beds of muck or marsh earth, setting from twelve to fifteen inches apart each way. Given plenty of room, the Balsam branches freely, and one well-developed specimen will give more and finer flowers than a half-dozen cramped specimens. In purchasing select the camellia-flowered varieties, as it does not pay to waste time with inferior kinds. Really fine Balsams are well worth cultivating, and are very effective in rows in front of taller plants. The double white and shell pink are valuable for floral designs for funerals and for other decorative work.
Probably no flower that has come into vogue of late years has won more popularity than the Cosmos—certainly for cut flowers nothing can surpass it in graceful beauty. The large pink and white Hibiscus, with a generous handful of long-stemmed pink, crimson, and white Cosmos, makes an ideal bouquet for a high glass vase. Placed in front of a large mirror the effect in form and colour is hardly surpassed by the choicest exotics. The graceful, fern-like foliage adds greatly to the beauty of a well-grown clump in the garden or lawn. They are at their best when seen against a background of darker green, a shower of crimson, pink, and white.
Only the early flowering varieties should be grown at the North, as the seasons are much too short for the giant or California varieties; though if one has room for both, the California may be grown as a background for the dwarf early flowering, as the foliage is much superior and the late flowers very fine. If started very early in flats in the house, pricked, out into pots, shifted and grown on until time to set in the open ground, the season of bloom will be much advanced.
Set out in rich garden soil and supply abundantly with water. Strong stakes must be provided, as the plants are very brittle at the joints, and a storm may do great damage if they are unsupported. An excellent way of growing them is to plant them in front of a wire fence or chicken netting on the side toward the prevailing wind, that they may be blown against, rather than away from their support, and the stalks and main branches tied to the wires with raphia, wool twine, or strips of cloth; thus protected there will be little danger of their being injured by rough winds.
If an occasional seed is allowed to form and self-sow there will come up very sturdy little plants the following spring, but fresh seed should be purchased every other year to insure against deterioration in size of blossom and quantity of bloom.