Harsh outlines of buildings, a dead tree, a dilapidated fence, a sunny window, an obtrusive outbuilding, may be transformed by the use of Nature’s drapery. There exists in the minds of many, unfortunately, a prejudice against vines on the house as injurious to walls. This is entirely unfounded, the contrary, so far as I am able to judge, being the case, especially on the south and west sides of frame houses, where the paint and consequently the woodwork, will be found in a much better state of preservation when protected by such vines as Ampelopsis Veitchi, Virginia Creeper, Woodbine, and the like, than when exposed to the burning, blistering rays of the sun. Vines make a thick growth of overlapping leaves which shed rain and prevent its penetrating to the walls. In England, where it is much used, it is said that walls covered with Ivy are almost indestructible, so hard and dry has the cement remained under its protecting care.
Adlumia (Mountain Fringe, Climbing Fumitory, Alleghany Vine)
One of the prettiest of summer vines is the Adlumia, though it lasts but one short summer. It is a biennial, stooling the first summer and the second summer bursting into a wealth of tender green foliage, as finely cut as a fern, with hundreds of sprays of delicate flowers—a delightful vine when grown on the north side of the house, where it retains its fine green throughout the season, though in the hot sun it is inclined to burn. It is especially appropriate for funerals. It self-sows, and once established there is sure to be an abundance of it from year to year. In the fall seeds may be scattered where the plants are to remain, or the seed may be germinated in another spot and the seedlings transplanted later. As the plants always receive a check when moved, it is better to do so as early as possible in the fall, that they may become established before cold weather. Plants should be set two feet apart.
Cobæa scandens (Cup-and-Saucer Vine) is a most desirable summer vine. It grows to a great height and blooms freely, throwing great, bell-shaped flowers—pure white, greenish white, lavender, mauve, and purple—from the axil of nearly every leaf. The flowers of the purple variety are pale green at first, changing through all the shades of lavender and purple to plum.
There is another variety—the San Salvador Cobæa—that is even more desirable than the C. scandens. The flowers are much smaller, but have greatly exaggerated stamens that give them distinction. Its chief beauty, however, is the foliage of light, translucent green, to which the sun, shining through it, gives a luminous quality rare in vines. In manner of growth, too, it is superior, its many-lobed leaves lying parallel to, or flat on the netting, instead of at right angles, as is the case with C. scandens. Both these vines do well in a north or east exposure and require less water than most vines. They are admirable for covering an old tree or any partly dead wood.
Seed should be started in the hotbed early in spring, setting them on edge and covering a quarter of an inch deep. Unless the soil appears dry they should not be watered until the plants are up and have their first true leaves. Set out when danger of frost is past in mellow soil, watering as needed, and giving support for the vines to cling to. To stone and brick, or the bark of a tree, they will cling of themselves, each leaf-spray ending in a tendril that attaches itself to any rough surface. I have never been able to ascertain what height they will attain if given support, but the top of a reasonably tall tree falls short of their ambition.
The Centrosema (Butterfly Pea) is rather a hard vine to propagate from seed. Seeds germinate freely, but the young plants seem strangely lacking in vigour, so that frequently, after making a few inches of growth, they refuse to go further, and gradually dwindle away. It is therefore better to make several sowings, soaking the seed in hot water for an hour before using, and planting in hotbed or cold-frame. If it is dropped an inch or two apart in the rows there will be no occasion for disturbing until it is time to transplant into the open ground—which would better be deferred until the plants are six or eight inches high. They should be moved with as little disturbance as possible, pressing the trowel down its full length and lifting and transferring to their permanent position on the east side of the house in one operation. Water and press the earth around the roots and furnish immediate support. Thus treated they will usually thrive and bloom in a few weeks, continuing until frost unless seeds form, which should not be allowed on young plants.
Were they much more difficult to raise, it would still be worth many trials and failures to secure one thrifty plant, so lovely it is when in bloom. I do not remember another plant whose blossoms give one such an idea of perfection—of exquisite and minute finish, as this lovely Centrosema with its beautiful colour, delicate markings, and symmetry of form. Before it bloomed I had begun to wonder whether it was worth all the trouble, but when I saw the first perfect blossom all doubts vanished and I would go to much greater trouble to possess it.
The Centrosema is of slender growth, and seldom exceeds eight or ten feet. Plants should be set a foot apart in front of a wire trellis or other support. They are hardy, but should be given protection in winter.
Gourds are a very useful family. They are an ornamental feature of the summer garden, and afford an economic and unique addition to the winter’s supply of plant receptacles, hanging-baskets, low bowls for Tulips, Crocus, and other bulbs. Many of them are highly ornamental and graceful climbers—as the Wild Cucumber, Bryonopsis, Coccinea Indica, and Abobra, which have delicate foliage and showy fruit, and may be grown where any quick-growing vine is wanted. They are especially good for covering rear fences or unsightly outbuildings.