Tigridias (Shell Flowers) are beautiful in colour, and odd in shape, and rather gorgeous in effect whether set singly or in groups. The colours are a pure white, white with lilac, purple and white, yellow and orange with dark spots, white with a brownish spot on a yellow ground, and rose colour. The flower remains open for only a day, but as there is always another to take its place it is not missed. They would better be started in the house in pots and bedded out when frost is past, as, planted in the open ground, they sometimes fail to appear. Lift and dry in fall and store in a dry, warm place during winter, examining occasionally for mould or grey lice. The leaf much resembles that of the date-palm, being ribbed and pointed at either end.
Summer-blooming Oxalis are very desirable plants for borders. They are extensively grown in parks and public gardens, but are little seen in private grounds. They are the most easily raised of all the bulbous plants and increase in a manner quite alarming, each bulb forming a long tuber resembling a white radish in general appearance, and covered with small bulbs—probably fifty—the top being crowned with one large bulb, the source of the season’s florescence. These bulbs are not a solid body, as would appear at first glance, but are made up of hundreds of minute scales like a lily bulb. Added to its interesting character below ground is its rather remarkable performance above ground. It comes into leaf and blossom two weeks after planting, about the time the first tiny tips of other bulbs appear.
One great advantage of this precocity of growth is that Oxalis may be substituted when for any reason other border plants have failed to come up and it is necessary to replace them in a hurry. Often a hardy border plant winter-kills and one keeps waiting for it to start until it is too late to get plants from seed, then the little Oxalis comes to the rescue.
Buy them by the hundred and set about three inches apart and about two inches deep. Take up in the fall and put in a sunny place to dry, turning often; when dry remove from the centre tuber and sort, saving the largest bulbs.
Crinums and Amaryllis
For the past year or so an unusual amount of interest has been shown in this magnificent class of plants, followed in many instances by grievous disappointment, as, led away by the glowing descriptions of the dealers, investments are made in bulbs whose proper culture is entirely unknown. It is to be regretted that dealers sending out bulbs requiring special treatment—as the Crinums—do not give instructions for their culture. It would save a vast amount of disappointment, complaint, and distrust. Unfortunately many florists do not themselves understand their requirements; they merely purchase the bulbs from other dealers, and publish trade advertisements and illustrations.
Seen in bloom under proper conditions and treatment it is not strange that florists wax eloquent in their praise, and invest heavily in bulbs which they sell to an ignorant and confiding public. There is, however, little difficulty in growing the Crinum—indeed, I know of no plant more easily grown, once it is understood.
Most of the complaints show that there has been no effort made to study the nature of the plant. A little study would show that an immense bulb like Crinum ornatum must have a generous supply of roots to sustain it; that these roots must have time to grow, commensurate with the length of time the bulb has been out of the ground, and that not much could be expected of it until these conditions were fulfilled. These facts are obvious from a study of the dry bulb, other facts are only arrived at after experience with the Crinum as a plant.
The root growth is quite in keeping with the size of the bulb; it forms great quantities of fleshy white roots as thick as pipe-stems, which are very impatient of disturbance and should be left practically unmolested for a number of years. When a bulb is prepared for market these roots are all removed. It is not strange that when called upon to rally from the shock of dismemberment and to replace the entire root growth it should sometimes fail to bloom as readily as expected. Often only a portion of the former roots start again, and this must be taken into consideration when anticipating bloom.
When a dry bulb is received from the florist it should be potted at once in a pot two inches larger in diameter than the bulb, that is, one allowing one inch of space between the pot and the bulb all around. Good potting soil, loam, leaf-mould, or muck, good sharp sand and old, well-rotted manure should be used. I do not think the muck absolutely essential, except in the case of C. Americana, which may be grown in pure muck, but good fibrous loam and sharp sand must be used. Place an inch or two of drainage material in the bottom of the pot, covering with sphagnum moss to keep the water from washing the soil into the drain and clogging it; fill within an inch of the top of the pot with soil; press the bulb into it, making a depression the shape of the base of the bulb and a couple of inches deep; line this hollow an inch deep with clean white sand, replace the bulb, water, and give a warm, sunny position. The bulb may be lifted and examined daily without injury, to note the root development and to watch for signs of blue-mould, which is apt to attack the Crinum if slow in rooting and which, when it appears, should be carefully wiped off. As soon as the root growth has fairly commenced the bulb must not again be disturbed, as there is then danger of injuring the root. This inspection shows the root development the bulb is likely to make, and gives an idea of the probable florescence. The bulb is planted on top, and not in the soil, but if it makes the root growth it should that will hold it as firmly as though it were entirely embedded.