Tuberoses should be started in a warm place where they will not be exposed to draughts or chills. Before potting, take a sharp knife and remove all the old root and hard substance about the base, leaving but a thin layer below the bulb. Unless this is done, growth will be either delayed or prevented, as the new growth cannot push through this hard substance. Pot singly in four-inch pots and keep moist and warm until growth begins, when they may be given a position in a sunny window, and encouraged to grow until time for planting out in the open ground, after all danger of frost is past. If it is not desired to plant directly in the open ground they may be shifted into six-or eight-inch pots and plunged in the ground. They must be plunged to the brim, or over, and will require more water than when growing in the ground. If they are still blooming at the approach of frost they may be lifted and removed to the house. Others that have been bedded out may be lifted, potted, and brought in, and will bloom as freely, though not as quickly, as those in pots. Disturbing the roots does not seem to interfere at all with the process of bloom.
The double pearl Tuberose blooms but once, and it is hardly worth while, unless one has much room and time, to try to bring the small bulbs forward to the blooming stage, as they must be cultivated for two or three summers and cared for for as many winters. The variegated leaved, however, blooms from year to year, and should be taken up in the fall and stored in a warm, dry place. This variety is single, but very fragrant and pretty. Tuberoses do well in the Gladiolus bed, and their pure white spikes are very attractive among the more brilliant flowers, but they should be planted in clumps and not scattered among the Gladioli.
Chapter FOURTEEN
Aquatics
There is special delight in the cultivation of aquatics, due partly to the novelty of the work, and partly to the feeling of rest associated with this particular branch of floriculture. One can rarely go into the garden in the early summer without seeing something to do, a plant to be trimmed, or a vine the wind has blown down, and always plants needing water. When the lily pond is reached, be it natural or artificial, one feels that here there is rest, for an established lily pond seldom needs care. In small tanks the water must be renewed occasionally, but once a week will be sufficient.
Probably the simplest way of constructing a lily pond where the lay of the land and soil are favourable, is to mark out a desired area, remove about two feet of soil and turn the cattle on it. With stiff clay soil this will in a few months give a bottom sufficiently hard to hold water. Spread several inches of muck and old manure on this prepared ground and the place is ready for the water, which may be piped from a well or supplied by a wind-mill. Such a pond has this advantage over one made of cement, that semi-aquatic plants, such as Reeds and Bamboos, Japanese Iris, Cardinal Flowers, and the native Flame Lily may find a place on its banks and add greatly to the beauty of the pond.
When one is so fortunate as to have a little stream flowing through a corner of the grounds it can be diverted to form a pond with sufficient current to prevent stagnation, yet not enough to interfere with the growing of water-plants. By selecting a low spot beside the stream very little excavating will be necessary, and the nature of the soil and force of the water will decide what, if any, barrier may be needed. Should the stream be some distance from the house a shrubbery, hardy perennials, and an occasional tree may lead up to the pond. If this is so fortunately placed as to be on the north side of the grounds, so that the sun lies on it when seen from the house, the effect will be greatly heightened by a clump of evergreens on its northern shore, making a background to arrest the eye and focus it on the lily pond. Where the landscape is limited, a group of tall Bamboos is effective at this point, and Japanese Iris may have a place in the foreground; Sagittarias and ornamental grasses may also be used with good results.
WILD WATER FLOWERS FOR EDGING LILY-POND
Where one lacks the advantage of natural conditions a cement pond is a good substitute. It may be expensively constructed with piping for water, drainage, etc., or it may be made at a cost of from five to thirty dollars, according to size. Five or six by eight, or eight by ten or twelve feet, will be found convenient sizes, as they will admit of reaching the centre. The basin should be about two feet deep when completed, and if of clay the soil should be wet and made as hard and smooth as possible. If the soil is loose and sandy it will need a coat of clay before applying the cement. This may be done by mixing the clay with water to the consistency of mortar and applying in any convenient way. Allow this to dry before using the cement. A neat curbing will greatly improve the appearance of the pond.
When the cement is perfectly dry, place six inches of old, well-rotted manure in the bottom of the basin, and cover with eight or ten inches of muck. Make this smooth and level, and cover with one or two inches of clean white sand to keep the water clear and sightly and prevent the muck from rising to the surface. Fill with hose or watering-pot, letting the pond overflow until the water is clear and the sand firm and smooth, when it is ready for plants.