[Note: Illustration 10, described in List of Illustrations as being after Page 118, was missing from the book.—KING ISLAND FROM JOHN MURRAY'S CHART
"Thursday, 14th January. Fair wind and cloudy. Running along shore 3 or 4 miles off and surveying it. At 4 P.M. having run as far as North-West Point, and seeing a number of breakers ahead, hove to. We could have done nothing by standing on in such weather. At 5 P.M. dropped kedge with the warp to see if that would ride her and found she would ride by it very well, furled sail and pointed yards. The land from Elephant Bay to here is rather low of sandy soil and a very long white sandy beach all this distance. The two sandy capes or rather bluffs are about 20 miles from Elephant Bay and are so remarkable that I think no person could be well mistaken in them. The course to Elephant Bay is nearly south-east by compass; no person need mistake the bay as Elephant Rock lies in the mouth of it about 3 miles from its north part. The bottom is sand gravel mixed with broken shells...At 7 A.M. got nearly as far as the second rocks and breakers, found a very high sea up. At this time saw an island bearing south-west by south. The island presents a bold rocky front to the sea and foul ground—breakers and rocks lie off from it a long way. Not less than 10 miles from here, on looking to the southward, a low island is seen and due south the furthest point of land—it appears altogether rather a dangerous place unless a vessel has a good breeze that can be depended on. A calm with such a current as we found here might chance to run her upon one rock or another...
"Friday, 15th January. Moderate fair weather. At 3 P.M. tacked in shore and at 4 P.M. shortened sail and stood off and on within 2 or 3 miles of the sand bluffs; lowered gig and sent the First Mate in her on shore to examine this part of the island, found the variation to be 8 degrees 54 minutes east. At half-past 6 P.M. the boat got on board. Mr. Bowen told me that there was a very high surf on the beach, that those bluffs were entirely sand, no shells were on the beach—inland he said the soil was good—he found no water here, some kangaroo were seen but could not be got at, the officer shot one but it got away; he said that on going up one of the trees he perceived inland a large sheet of water which he thinks must have some entrance into it from the other side of the island. I rather think it a lagoon or swamp, nevertheless we will give the other side of the island a strict search when wind and weather will permit us to go round.
"Saturday, 16th January. At quarter past 4 A.M. breeze from north-east, hazy weather and rain, stood in for Elephant Rock. At half-past 5 A.M. made sail down the coast of island to the southward, surveying it and sounding every half-hour...From 10 to 11 A.M. standing in for land. The weather at this time cleared a little and from the masthead a low point seemed to form a kind of entrance...into a deep bight or bay, a reef of rocks was also seen to the westward of it. Stood in pretty close along the edge of the reef and sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to overhaul the place. Observed the rocks of this reef to be full of seals, sea horses and elephants. The appearance of this place being favourable...stood further in and perceived it was a deep bay.
"Sunday, 17th January. At 1 P.M. came to anchor—the bottom coarse sand—from where we lay East point of land bore east-north-east distant 10 miles, the Seal Reef south by east 3 or 4 miles...we sounded every part of this place where a vessel would most likely anchor and found it 14 to 7 fathoms. At 2 P.M. Mr. Bowen came off, he brought on board 3 seals with hair of prime fur and told me there was a vast quantity on shore. Elephants are also in abundance and the woods full of kangaroo, emus, badgers, etc., some few shells were found, no water seen as yet. After dinner I went on shore: the brush is very thick which rendered it impossible to get any way in, there is little doubt of plenty of water being here as we in our search started 15 or 20 kangaroo from 30 to 40 pounds weight. An emu was caught by the dog about 50 pounds weight and surprising fat. At one place on this beach an acre of ground at least was covered with elephants of a most amazing size and several were all along the beach and playing in the water. At 7 P.M. I came on board. A sea watch with the proper officer had been set as has been usual ever since we made this island...At midnight the wind increasing made sail out of the bay as I preferred riding out the gale in Elephant Bay. At 11 A.M. came to anchor in Elephant Bay. We have now overhauled and surveyed this island from its north-west and west points to its south-west points being in length about 55 or 60 miles, and although westerly winds that have blown for such a length of time have retarded our voyage yet they have enabled me to strictly search every part of the island between aforementioned points, and should a north-east wind come and remain steady for a few days we will be able to overhaul the remaining part of the island with equal accuracy. Of the advantages to be derived from this fine island I shall say but little, the plain truth is to be seen in this journal. It contains plenty of wood and water, the woods are full of animals and excellent of their kind, the shores are lined with fine oil (if I may be allowed the expression) and this part of the island has two good bays in it well sheltered from all the dangerous winds. A vessel may anchor as I did unless the wind blows from the east, south-east or north-east or north points of the compass. I named this last discovery the Bay of Seals from the number of these animals on the shores of it, and the rocks outside the bay Seal Rocks.
"Monday, 18th January. First and middle parts it blew a gale but with long lulls at times, latter a harder gale with much heavier squalls than I have yet seen in this country (the Western Port gale excepted) and it is with great satisfaction that I am able to say that our little vessel has rode it out as yet with one anchor and half a cable—a proof of the goodness of the holding ground...At 8 the boat brought on board a turn of water and 2 kangaroo were caught—the increase of the gale hindered the boat from returning on shore.
"Tuesday, 19th January. From noon till 4 P.M. the gale continued. By sundown it was moderate weather; the boat returned on board...a wambuck was caught, served it, a swan and a kangaroo to ship's company.
"Thursday, 21st January. A.M. Sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to Elephant Rock with directions to sound all the parts of this bay we did not run over in the vessel.
"Friday, 22nd January. P.M. The boat returned on board. Mr. Bowen found the soundings all the distance from the vessel from 9 to 10 and 11 fathoms and good ground. Close to the Elephant Rock there are 10 fathoms. This rock is about 1 1/2 miles in circumference and it is entirely covered with seals of prime fur some of which the officer brought, there might be 6 or 7,000 seals of different sizes on shore. A.M. Sent boat to Elephant Rock for skins and another for wood and water.