Highest of all, where white peaks glanced,
Where glistening streamers waved and danced,
The wanderer’s eye could barely view
The summer heaven’s delicious blue;
So wondrous wild, the whole might seem
The scenery of a fairy dream.
The early settlement of Cape Breton was entirely French. At the time of the expulsion of the Acadians from the peninsular part of Nova Scotia, many took refuge in the then L’Isle Royale, or Cape Breton. The early French, and the Acadians by whom they were afterwards joined, have retained their old life in a remarkable degree. It is a delight to meet them in modern up-to-date America. Scottish Highlanders, too, are in Cape Breton in large numbers; and the virtues and customs of this rugged and estimable people may be studied against the pleasant background of mountain and flood, so like the home scenery of “Caledonia, stern and wild.” Micmac Indians are here, too; but not in such great numbers as formerly.
First, following the line of the Intercolonial Railway from Point Tupper by way of the Bras d’Or Lake to Sydney, the general appearance of the country may be noticed.
The first view of the Island when approaching by the railway ferry is quite impressive, although the peculiar features do not grow until the interior is gradually reached. After passing McIntyre’s Lake there is considerable up-grade to gain the height of the bold hills that are capped in the distance by a still higher formation. The scene as the height is gained is very striking, entirely distinct in character from either the open, soft beauty of the Wentworth Valley, or the combination of river, forest and mountain seen in the Matapedia district.