Over there a small headland of some forty feet in height has lost its crown of brown rocks that lie in picturesque disorder at its base, lapped by the gentle ripple of the tide, and mimicking the giant scenes of the rugged Atlantic shore. Nor are bolder effects wanting, for yonder, across the channel, a huge mountain rises proudly to the sky; and it, too, has thrown part of its rocky cap down and far out into the deeper tide.
No more beautiful view of mountain, blue water and gently-sloping wooded shore can be seen than that between Barachois and Sydney River; and on a morning when the bright sun has dissipated the early mists, and rides resplendent in a sky dotted here and there with fleecy clouds, the picture is truly superb.
The pleasing effect of the tree-dotted sand bars running out from the shore—making lagoons whose tranquil silver surfaces, protected by tiny headlands, show in delightful contrast with the deep blue of the more ruffled outer waters—must be seen before an adequate conception of their great beauty can be formed. There is a great difference between coast scenery and that of what may be termed an inner coast shore, such as that of the Bras d’Or Lake.
If the scenery of outer coast is striking and grand in its rugged majesty, that of the calmer and more protected inner shore compels admiration for its softer effects—no less striking in their tranquil beauty—scenic miniatures in nature’s most exquisite setting.
The city of Sydney has become the centre of a district that is rapidly increasing in population and commercial importance. It is the capital of Cape Breton, and the great mining and manufacturing industries of the Island centre altogether in this eastern district. It is the present terminus of the Intercolonial Railway. It has an exceedingly fine harbor. This harbor is divided into two arms, known as the ports of Sydney and North Sydney, and the average depth of water is fifty feet. The water area is very extensive, so much so that Sydney ranks as one of the world’s great harbors. The north and south bars at the entrance act as natural break-waters, and the inner waters are easy of access.
While it is generally known that the distance from Sydney to Liverpool is much less than that from New York to the British port, it will come as a great surprise to most when they learn how much closer Sydney is than New York to points in South America and South Africa. For instance, Pernambuco, at the most easterly projection of the South American continent, is nearer to Sydney than New York by 24 miles. New Orleans, an extreme southern port of the United States, is even more distant from the South American point named by a stretch of over 575 miles; and, strange as it may seem, the voyage to the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa is very much shorter from Sydney than from United States ports.
Sydney River offers a broad and pleasant stream for boating. The country by the lower part is flat, but becomes hilly and nicely wooded as the upper waters are gained. For some distance inland there are excellent runs for motor-boating, sailing, rowing and canoeing. Crawley’s Creek is also a good boating place. There are many pleasant drives to the lakes in the vicinity, as well as to many pretty inlets on the coast, and by the inner waters of the harbor. There is an excellent view from Victoria Park at the end of the peninsula. The district surrounding Sydney has a number of pleasant features, and the city itself may be chosen as a centre for excursions to Port Morien, the Mira River and Louisbourg.
North Sydney is the port from which the steamers of the Reid-Newfoundland line leave for Port-aux-Basques, Newfoundland; and from this port steamers may be taken for St. John’s, Newfoundland, as well as to Hawkesbury, Halifax, Charlottetown, Montreal, Quebec, St. Pierre and Miquelon. There is a good ferry service between here and Sydney, local lines for points on the Bras d’Or Lakes, and, in addition, there are steamers to northern points along the eastern shore of Cape Breton.