One of the finest panoramic views, and innumerable others at close range, may be seen at and around Ingonish. Mountains, islands, beautiful bays, nestling villages and glorious air are here. Walks and excursions on foot and by boat may be had in many directions, and the beauties of the place need fear comparison with no other district. The descent on the other side is believed to be one of the sights of the Maritime Provinces. The village on the broad beach, the three harbors of Ingonish, the picturesque lighthouse, beautiful Ingonish Island, with its Sentinel Rock, and the far away Cape North range of mountains, make a picture of superb beauty. Franey’s Chimney itself is no inconspicuous object, being nearly 1400 feet high. A French cruiser once went ashore not far from Money Point, and active tides were wont to throw up gold coins from the wreck on to the strand. For some years people used to go gold fishing, with long poles having the ends daubed with pitch to which the coins adhered. Ingonish was known in French days as Inganische, and relics of those days may still be found. There is excellent bathing at Ingonish and it is a splendid place for a summer vacation of a restful kind. Neil’s Harbor, Aspy Bay and Cape North are usually reached by steamer, and inland from these places will be found unexplored land where caribou and bear are still found. This whole area, including Bay St. Lawrence, is beautiful, and destined to become more and more frequented as hotels are built and roads and other facilities are improved; and in due time a railway will doubtless skirt the coast.
Out in the Atlantic in the direction of Newfoundland, about 15 miles north-east of Cape North, is the rocky island of St. Paul’s. It is right in the highway of ocean travel to and from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Many wrecks have happened here, with the loss of thousands of lives. A hundred years ago as seamen approached the Island, they used to keep a look-out for the sight of the immense flocks of sea-fowl known as the great auk. These birds, now extinct, used to keep inshore; and never ventured out to sea. They were thus a sure indication of the proximity of land. They were so innocent that sailors could draw near and capture them by the boat-load. They were about as large as a goose, with short wings, coal black head and back, white beneath, and a milk-white spot under the right eye. Of negligible value in those days, a stuffed specimen of the great auk to-day is worth fifteen hundred dollars. The island has now lost most of its dangers, for the sailor of to-day sees the bright flashes from the lighthouse when nearly twenty miles out at sea, while in thick weather he is warned by the fog-gun. A splendid series of drives may be taken from Baddeck, by way of Hunter’s Mountain, and through the Wagamatcook or Middle River district, by Lake O’Law, to Margaree Forks and Margaree Harbor on the west coast. No scenery can charm more than this—it is delightful. The Middle River waters are exceedingly pretty, the valley is a beautiful one, and the pastoral scenes are as fresh and enjoyable as can be. There is a comfortable and homelike hostelry in this district. The Margaree River, a splendid salmon stream, is full of romantic interest, for it affords a constant succession of charming views, and here, too, everything is fresh and smiling. None may pass through such spots without enjoying to the full that feeling of exhilaration that accompanies the sight of such a wealth of all that is beautiful in nature.
Whycocomagh
The drive may be prolonged to Cheticamp, by putting up overnight at places between Baddeck, Middle River, Margaree, etc. It is an Acadian fishing village, the inhabitants of which have lived their simple lives for more than two centuries undisturbed by all that goes on in the outer world. The interior country is beautiful, and is much diversified by streams of the clearest water. This, too, although remote, is a favorite spot for the nature-lover who would see the quiet life of the people in such far-away settlements. There is much that is picturesque in the region of the hilly Cheticamp valley, and it is a district that will also be opened up in due time on account of the gold and other minerals that have been found there.
The return to Baddeck may be made by way of Inverness, Strathlorne, Lake Ainslie, Mabou and Port Hood, in which event it is not much out of the way to include Whycocomagh in the circuit. Or the journey may temporarily end at Whycocomagh, and that place be chosen as a centre from which to see the surrounding country, without the necessity of returning to Baddeck. As there is a steamer from Baddeck to Whycocomagh, and as it is a very enjoyable trip, made pleasant by the fine scenery on the way, many may prefer to see the east coast and central districts from Baddeck, and then view the west coast, middle-west and south-west districts from Whycocomagh.
The scenery in and around Whycocomagh is very beautiful, and its picturesque bay has been called the “Naples of America.” The country round about is most varied, and from the top of Salt Mountain a splendid view is commanded; nor is it necessary to climb that height unless so disposed, for the scenery by the shores of the bay is exceedingly fine. Whycocomagh is an ideal centre for boating and canoeing, and here, as at Baddeck, splendid opportunities exist for enjoyable cruises by motor-boat. There is bathing also, and fishing; and many pleasant days may be spent at this peaceful little resort.
A Picnic Party