The English Cathedral and the Basilica are the two principal churches of the city, although there are, of course, many other churches well worthy of a visit. On the site where now stands the English Cathedral formerly stood the ancient church and convent of the Recollêt Fathers. The last survivor was pensioned by the British Government. He was well known for his wit. It is recorded that he was once asked if he knew that a priest had arrived in town who was noted for his appreciation of the good things of the table, but who, ever ready to be a guest, never entertained others. The good old Father replied. “I saw him to-day, ‘going about seeking whom he may devour.’”
The Cathedral contains splendid monuments, a fine chancel window and a silver communion service of exquisite design and superior workmanship. It was a present from King George III. What is frequently seen in Europe, but rarely in America, is the decoration of a church interior with old battle-torn regimental flags, and here the former colors of the 69th British regiment are draped over the chancel. In the Cathedral enclosures once stood a precious elm under which Jacques Cartier is believed to have assembled his followers on their first arrival in this part of Canada. It was blown down over a half-century ago. The treasures contained in the Cathedral will be appreciated by all who wish to understand Quebec and its past.
The Basilica is venerable with age, dating back to the year 1647. Two years previous to that, twelve hundred and fifty beaver skins had been set aside to commence a fund for the building of this Cathedral. Although it has suffered much from fire and siege, the foundations and parts of the walls are those of two-and-a-half centuries ago. Champlain’s ‘Chapelle de la Recouvrance’ was in the rear of the Basilica, and traces of its walls are still visible. The edifice contains many beautiful paintings and it is also rich in memorials of great historic value. In fact many of the works of art seen here are almost priceless. Rare gifts from the ‘Grand Monarch,’ Louis XIV. may here be seen; and the building contains enough of interest to occupy a good portion of a rainy day.
Many pleasant spots are in the immediate neighborhood of Quebec, and some that are also intimately connected with events of the past. A drive through the pretty village of Charlesbourg and beyond, and some four miles east, may terminate at the ruins of the Château Bigot, known as Beaumanoir, and also called the ‘Hermitage.’ It was here the tragedy in connection with the beautiful maiden of French and Algonquin extraction took place; for it will be remembered that this was the woodland bower or country house of the infamous Intendant Bigot whose city residence was the palace at the foot of Palais Hill. The building was originally a very extensive one, with many secret passages. Until within recent years the burial place of poor Caroline was marked with a flat stone that had the letter ‘C’ chiselled on it.
Indian Lorette may be reached by carriage, or by a short run on the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway. The country through Charlesbourg is very pretty, mountainous and splendidly wooded. There is a grand fall of water at the Indian village where the Lorette courses along a romantic bed and dashes madly through wild and rocky gorges. Huge masses of stone have fallen from the cliffs, and in places small trees have gained a foothold on the apparently bare tops of these rocks. They often assume odd forms, and particularly so when they grow sidewise from the perpendicular clefts in the face of the rocky banks. The bottom of the gorge is rugged and striking. Huge table rocks slant upwards, and the torrents of water dashing against them rear up and pass over or around the obstructions. The volume of water precipitated over the fall is very great, and the whole scene as the eye follows the river bed is most striking. It is a novel experience to stand or sit on a ledge fronted by a huge boulder in the middle of the narrow channel or gorge. The Lorette gaining here in depth rushes down with great force, and as the river is deflected it rises up a seething pillar of water, so that, at only arm’s-length the curious sight may be viewed. Nearly everyone feels the fascination of a waterfall like this, with its ever-changing form and merry, boisterous song. The romantic descent into the ravine is something to be remembered—nothing could be wilder or so touched with Nature’s art. Just above the village is the Château d’Eau, from in front of which the water is conveyed by conduits to Quebec. The scenery on the river above the Château is charming, and a boat or canoe trip may be taken to Lake St. Charles through a most delightful sylvan country.
The Hurons live in the Indian village. They are industrious and peaceable, carrying on the manufacture of snowshoes, moccasins, and basket work, etc. In the height of the summer a good number migrate to the populous resorts of Murray Bay and the Lower St. Lawrence.
There is a fine view to be obtained by going up the eminence on which stands the attractive French village of Lorette.