The length of the Restigouche is over 200 miles. It flows generally over a north-east course, and broadens gradually as it nears its mouth at the Bay of Chaleur. It is the first large river to be met that is entirely free of rapid and fall not practicable for a canoe. It is full of windings and abrupt turns which add to the beauty of its scenery, and where pools are so often found in which fish like to lie. There are places where the flow of the water is so tranquil that it can hardly be noticed. Others there are where gay and frothy little rapids bubble and dance as they toss their white crests in the air, but here a canoe may be poled through with ease. Even in those places where swirling eddies and foaming waters are found, little difficulty is experienced in making a way through to the quiet water above. In the quiet and still parts of the river the fish are to be seen swimming about many feet below the surface, and this is true, also, of the Green River, which connects with the upper forks of the Restigouche.
The Upsalquitch is a stream of many tributaries and sparkling branches. It abounds in salmon and trout. It is related that on one journey over this river the fish were so plentiful that considerable effort was necessary to force a way through with the canoe. On another trip down to the Restigouche a pool was passed through where not less than two hundred salmon jumped and darted in every direction when they were thus disturbed. These fish would only average about twenty pounds each; but others weighing over forty pounds are frequently caught.
From Campbellton over the line of the International Railway to St. Leonard’s, many districts of the Upsalquitch, Kedgewick, Restigouche, Tobique and St. John Rivers may be reached.
The Nepisiguit, or ‘River of Foaming Waters,’ is a fine fishing stream. But great as this attraction is, it has even a greater, for its scenery is rugged, romantic and exquisitely varied. The picturesque Pabineau Fall is a lovely sight, and the Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit, about twenty miles from Bathurst, should be seen by every one. Connection is made by a short railroad with the line of the Intercolonial Railway at Nepisiguit Junction, near Bathurst. The Grand Falls tumble precipitately in four descents through a huge rocky gorge. The roar of the water, the foaming curtain of the descending torrent and the spray that floats some distance down—all combine to make a striking scene; while the sight of the river rolling away in the shuddering depths below has a strong fascination for all. Above the Grand Falls there are picturesque rapids where by walking over the great rocks—and over giant tree trunks that have lodged in immovable positions in their descent of the river from the lumbering region higher up—a good view of river and hilly banks may be obtained. By going down the railroad for about one quarter of a mile, and climbing up on to a bluff, a full view of the gorge, the fall and the foaming depths far below may be had.
Pabineau Fall takes its name indirectly from the small stream Pabineau that falls into the Nepisiguit a short distance below the Fall. It was once called Pabina, and had the English name of Cranberry Falls as well. Although the word is of Indian origin, its present form is believed to be Acadian French, meaning the Highbush Cranberry. The Indians used to spear a canoe-load of salmon at a time by the Pabineau Fall in the days before fishery wardens were appointed to patrol the river.
There are splendid trout lakes on the upper waters of the Nepisiguit, and the whole region is one of the choicest for sportsmen, lovers of nature, and those who do not mind being away from the towns. To see the river at its best, it is necessary to camp out with guides accustomed to the management of canoes, and who are also skilled in woodcraft. There are many such guides living all along the lower part of the river. There are some excellent private fishing-club houses, as well as a few where guests are received.
Theodore Roosevelt, who, in addition to his other qualifications, is a genuine nature-lover, scout, woodsman and Nimrod, is always at home in the upper waters of the Nepisiguit. Of this country he wrote: “Goodbye, lovely Nepisiguit, stream of the beautiful pools, the fisherman’s elysium; farewell to thy merry, noisy current, thy long quiet stretches, thy high bluffs, thy wooded and thy rocky shores. Long may thy music lull the innocent angler into day-dreams of happiness. Long may thy romantic scenery charm the eye and gladden the heart of the artist, and welcome the angler to a happy sylvan home.”
The country just described is perhaps the best in all North America for hunting and fishing. Some details and incidents relating to this region will therefore be of interest.