The road through the mountain gorge or highway connecting Percé with Gaspé Basin has been likened to the best of Swiss scenery.
A number of quaint legends have their origin in connection with the Percé Rock. These all turn on the white and ghost-like vapor often seen over the rock in the dim light, caused by flocks of birds circling overhead in fantastic array before alighting. It is told that a Breton maid lost her life here and that her spirit still haunts the scene. Her lover in the days of long ago came to the New Land to seek his fortune. She, his promised bride, he left behind, until he could make a living and a home for her. He prospered, and soon sent back word for her to come. She left, but met a terrible fate on the way, for her ship was captured by Spanish corsairs and she alone was spared to become the wife of the pirate captain. She refused, and he swore she should never reach Quebec. When he knew her story he threatened he would sail past Percé; and in sight of her lover she should be put to death.
This preyed on her mind to such an extent that at last, when they drew near the place that was to have been the scene of her happiness, she jumped overboard—the vigilance of her watchers for a moment relaxed. She sank, and all attempts to rescue were vain. As they were cruising about and searching the water, the lookout discovered what appeared to be a woman rising from the water with dripping garments. It was nearing sunset and the vessel gradually drew near the rock, lured by the figure. It was soon discovered that the ship was slowly sinking, and orders were given to wear away from the haunted spot. In vain the crew tried to obey. It was hopeless; for the ship was turning to stone, her masts had become pillars of iron, her sails—slate.
Rapidly sinking she drew near to the Percé Rock, and before the pirates could jump over to swim ashore, they were turned to stone. The doomed ship immediately struck the rock and became part of it. Yonder point is said to have been the vessel’s bowsprit, there was the foremast, here the stern. Once clearly visible, they are now worn down by wind and wave so that they appear to be an integral part of the rock itself; but although the ship’s identity is lost, the wraith of the poor Breton maid lingers ever near the spot. Those living near believe she will depart and be at rest when the last vestige of the pirate ship shall have vanished.
It is said that sunset is the time to see the ghostly presence, and so well is this believed that no fisherman dares to drop a line near the spot when the evening sun dips low.
Some ten miles south-west of Percé is Cape Despair, near which Queen Anne’s great fleet under Admiral Walker met grave disaster in the great storm that scattered and almost destroyed it. Eight large vessels were wrecked, and the bodies of several thousand men were strewn along this shore and on that of Egg Island. Fragments of the wrecks were to be seen along the coast until quite recently. Here the “Flying Dutchman” is still believed to prolong his phantom existence, for the natives say that sometimes when the sea is quiet and calm, vast white waves roll in from the Gulf bearing on their crest a phantom ship crowded with men in old-style uniforms. An officer stands on the bow, with a white-clad woman on his left arm, and as the surge sweeps the doomed ship on with terrific speed, a tremendous crash is heard and the clear, agonizing cry of a woman—and then, nothing is left to view save the stern cliffs and the tranquil sea.
The coast now makes off almost west, and soon the little fishing village of Grand River, on the river of that name, is reached. This was the former terminus of the coastal railway that now extends to Gaspé. If desired, the return journey by rail to Campbellton may start from here. Grand River has a good wharf and is a place of call for steamers from Montreal, Campbellton, Dalhousie, etc. The country is pleasant and rolling, while the scenery on the river is both varied and picturesque. The fishing rights are leased, as is the custom through the greater part of this province. The open sea washes the shore, and the air is very enjoyable. The river affords excellent canoeing.
Passing Pabos and the outlets of the Great and Little Pabos Rivers, the spreading village of Port Daniel is seen, comfortably placed on and near the river of that name and its tributaries, as well as by the head of its own picturesque little bay. Near here, at Pointe-au-Maquerau, the steamship Colborne went ashore with a valuable cargo of silks, wine, hardware, silver-plate and specie. This was strewn in great confusion along Harrington’s Cove, and even at Port Daniel. Much was picked up by wreckers from Gaspé and Percé; and the auction sale of the salvage brought wealth to many along the shore, for the cargo was worth over $400,000. From the top of the Cap au Diable mountain range a splendid panoramic view may be seen. The rivers of this district are full of wild fowl in the spring and fall. The Grand Pabos is quite a fine stream. Not far away is Duck Cove, a pretty spot with a clear little stream running down to the sea. West of Newport there is a rocky little island close to the shore, well wooded in the center and admirably suited for the erection of a small bungalow or summer home.