We have now followed both the combing and the clothing wools through the process of manufacture into worsted and woolen yarns and cloths. Again, let us emphasize that the relative amount of space devoted here to the two industries is governed, not by their comparative importance, but by what appeared to be the most concise method of approach. Many details, which loom up as tremendous problems to the manufacturer, have necessarily been treated here with scant respect, and others have not even been mentioned.
3. Mohair and Alpaca
Mohair
There are two materials upon which we have not touched at all, although they are generally included in wool manufacture. Mohair is the hair of the Angora goat, and has many characteristics of both hair and Mohair wool. These animals are native to Asia Minor, but are now extensively raised in other parts of the world, notably in Africa and in this country. The hair averages about four inches in length, although it frequently grows much longer, is very smooth and fine, has considerable tensile strength, low elasticity, and practically no felting property. It is used primarily in the manufacture of plush, such as is used in railroad carriages, and makes very durable material. It is also woven into Palm Beach cloth, or mixed with worsted or cotton yarns in such fabrics as automobile tops.
Alpaca
Alpaca is a similar fibre, obtained from an animal native to Bolivia and Peru. The fibre is finer than mohair, and a little more like wool. It comes in three natural colors; white, brown, and black, all of which are found on the same fleece. Alpaca is both light and soft, and therefore lends itself admirably to the manufacture of thin linings.
4. Knitting and Felt Manufacture
Stockinette Frame
Whereas most wool yarn is woven into cloth, there is also the knitting process, in which the individual threads are interlaced into a regular fabric without warp and weft structure. The work is performed on a sort of loom, called the stockinette frame, upon which the yarns are arranged in parallel order and uniform distances apart. The actual knitting closely resembles hand knitting, and is done entirely by automatic mechanism. A machine of this sort is capable of turning out a great length of material in a short time, and the fabric has the fine ribbed character seen in ordinary knitted goods. The article is soft, full, and elastic, but lacks the strength and firmness of woven fabrics. Stockinette cloths, sweaters, some underwear, and hosiery are products of the knitting machine, and the knitting mills are important consumers of noils and low-grade wools.
Felt