Fig. 128. Detail of Porch Finish

Posts and balusters are usually placed after the porch roof has been placed, the upper frame being temporarily supported by studs.

In [Fig. 127] is also shown the manner of framing the bearing joists, ceiling joists and rafters for a hip roof. The various cuts are obtained in the same manner as are similar cuts on the main roof. Porch roofs are seldom given as much pitch as the main roof. They do not need as much and must, usually, be kept below the window sill line of the second story.

[Fig. 128] also illustrates a common type of trim for porch cornice. Where supporting plates are long, a flitch plate girder is formed of them by the insertion between them of a stiff plate of structural steel of suitable length and width.

63. Interior Finish.—A part of the carpenter's duty is the placing of all interior finish, such as base boards, door jambs, etc. Formerly the carpenter made, or "got out" his trim by hand but today he finds it much pleasanter and cheaper to buy the machine-made product of the mill. Even door and window frames are usually purchased from the mill, either assembled or knock-down.

64. Setting Door Jambs.—If the studs about interior door openings have been carefully selected for straightness and properly set or plumbed, the setting of the door jamb should be an easy matter, If this work has not been properly done, considerable ingenuity will be required oftentimes to get the frame set so that its edges are out of wind and the frame plumb. If a jamb should not be set plumb and out of wind, the operation of making a door fit its stops properly is a most trying one and the result usually unsatisfactory. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the necessity for proper placing of studs and jambs. (1) Saw off the head lugs just enough to allow the frame to be placed in the opening. (2) Cut a spacing stick of a length sufficient to reach from the floor to the under surface of the head jamb when that member is in its proper place. (3) Place the head jamb at one of its ends upon this stick and tack the jamb to the stud lightly. (4) Level the head jamb and lightly tack the second jamb, inserting wedging blocks or shingle points between the jamb and stud. A spread stick cut to hold the jambs apart properly at the base is desirable. (5) Lay a piece of finish floor against the face of each jamb and scribe along the top of this to indicate where the jambs must be cut off to fit the finish floor when it is placed. It is taken for granted that the finish floor is to be laid last. If a finish floor is not to be used, or if it is to be placed before the wall trim, the head jamb will be leveled but not located as to height, the dividers being used to scribe the feet, being set so that the proper amount will be cut off to allow the jamb to rest at the right height when cut to the scribed lines. (6) Remove the jamb and saw to the scribed lines. (7) Replace the frame and tack it at one side after plumbing it both on its face side and face edge. See that the jamb is at the right height by inserting the blocks of flooring used in scribing to length. (8) Tack the second side-jamb close to the head. (9) Sight across the edges of these jambs and adjust the loose jamb until the frame is out of wind. Plumb its face, blocking the back. Shingles placed point to point provide easy blocking where the space is not too large. A straight-edge placed against the face of a jamb will indicate whether it has been sprung in the blocking or wedging between jamb and stud.

Fig. 129. Setting Dividers at
Meeting Rails		Fig. 130. Scribing Bottom of
Lower Sash

65. Fitting Window Sash.—Sash are often fitted before the house is plastered and before the sash are glazed. (1) Joint the top and sides of the top sash, chamfering the arrises very slightly by a stroke or two with the plane. (2) Cut and fit the meeting rails about the parting stops remembering to leave a little "play," that successive coats of paint on the stops may not cause binding, 1/16" on each side is not too much. (3) Joint the edges of the lower sash. (4) Since the bottom rail has not been beveled, only the lugs sawed off, the meeting rails will appear with reference to one another as in [Fig. 129.] Set a pair of dividers to a distance equal to that between the tops of the meeting rails. This can be done by placing the dividers between the meeting rails. (5) Scribe the bottom rail as indicated in [Fig. 130.] If the sash has been glazed so that the outer face of the bottom rail is not accessible from the inside, the scribing is to be done on the inside of the bottom rail and a T-bevel set to the slope of the sill and this used to transfer the angle to the edges of the sash. Before scribing the bottom rail, see that the meeting rails are apart a uniform distance across the sash. (6) Saw and then plane to the scribed line.

Where sash weights are to be used, they are easiest placed before lathing. The proper tying of a sash cord so that it shall not work loose with time is a matter for careful instruction by the teacher. No good carpenter will have his sash cords coming untied. The cord can be cut the estimated length after the weight has been attached, and a knot or loop tied in the free end so that the cord shall not slip thru the pulley.

In case weights are not placed before the lath and plaster, it will be necessary to make use of a "duck" to draw the end of the sash cord up thru the removed pocket cover of the jamb. This "duck" is usually a piece of lead beaten about one end of a piece of stout short cord. This lead weight is lowered thru the pulley by means of a longer cord, the end of the sash cord is then fastened to the longer cord, after removing the duck, and then drawn up and thru the pulley.