Fig. 133. Measuring Opening

68. Fitting a Door.—The names of the parts of a door and their relative positions are indicated in [Fig. 132.] (1) Mark with a try-square and saw off the lugs, the parts of the stiles which project beyond the rails. (2) Plane an edge of the door until it fits the side of the frame against which it is to be hung. If the frame is straight, this edge may be planed straight. It is not wise to take for granted the squareness or straightness of a frame. A test or series of tests may first be made with square and straight-edge. A mechanic, however, usually planes an edge until it fits the frame, testing by holding the door against the frame as near to its position as its size will allow. (3) Measure the width of the frame at its top and bottom, [Fig. 133], and transfer these dimensions to the top and bottom of the door, [Fig. 134.] When approaching the line, in planing, place the door against the frame often enough to see where the allowances must be made for irregularities in the frame. (4) Plane the top edge of the door until it fits the frame properly when the first planed edge is in position. (5) The length of the door will be determined by scribing it to the floor after being hinged.

The edge of the door which is to swing free is usually planed slightly lower at the back arris than at the front. An examination of the movement of an ordinary house door will show the reason for this.

Fig. 134. Laying off Width

69. Hinging a Door.—The hinges most commonly used in carpentry are the kind known as butts. Where the door stands in a vertical position, hinges in which the two parts are joined by a loose pin are generally used. By removing the pins the door may be removed without taking the screws out of the hinge. Such hinges are more easily applied than those with the fixed pin. (1) Place the door in position; keep it tight against the top and the hinge side of the frame. (2) Measure from top and bottom of the door to locate the position for the top of the higher hinge and the bottom of the lower hinge. Usually, the lower hinge is placed somewhat farther from the bottom than the higher hinge is from the top. (3) With the knife or chisel mark on both door and frame at the points just located, [Fig. 135.] (4) Take out the door, place the hinge as in [Fig. 136], and mark along the ends with a knife. In a similar manner mark the frame. Make certain that the openings on door and on frame are laid off so as to correspond before proceeding further, (5) Set the gage for the depth the hinge is to be sunk [Fig. 137] and gage both door and frame. (6) Set another gage for width of openings, [Fig. 138], and gage both door and frame, keeping the head of the gage against the front of the door. (7) Chisel out these gains on door and frame, [Fig. 139.] (8) If loose-pin butts are used, separate the parts and fasten them in place. Use a spiral drill to make openings for the screws. To insure the hinges' pulling tight against the side of the gain make the holes just a little nearer the back side of the screw hole of the hinge Put the door in place and insert the pins. It is a good mechanic who can make a door hang properly the first time it is put up. It is better, therefore, to insert but one or two screws in each part of a hinge until the door has been tried. (9) If the door hangs away from the frame on the hinge side, take it off; take off hinge on door or frame, or both if the crack is large; chisel the gain deeper at its front. By chiseling at the front only and feathering the cut toward the back, the gain needs to be cut but about one-half as deep as if the whole hinge were sunk. If the door should fail to shut because the hinge edge strikes the frame to soon, the screws of the offending hinge must be loosened and a piece of heavy paper or cardboard inserted along the entire edge of the gain. Fasten the screws and cut off the surplus paper with a knife. If plain butt hinges are used the operations are similar to those just described except that the whole hinge must be fastened to the door and the door held in place while fastening the hinges to the frame.

Fig. 135. Locating Hinge
Position 		Fig. 136. Knifing Hinge
Location

70. Fitting Locks.—Two types of lock are in common use upon dwelling doors, the rim and the mortise lock. The rim lock, [Fig. 140], is used upon cheap construction and is attached to the outer surface of the door. The mortise lock is used upon the better class of work; the box is housed into a mortise and the selvage into a gain cut into the edge of the door stile. Door locks are made so that the bolts may be reversed to fit either right or left hand doors. This is accomplished by removing a screw in the side of the box and carefully lifting the bolt, replacing it in reversed position. A right hand door is one which swings to the right when pushed open.

Fig. 137. Setting Gage for
Depth of Gain		Fig. 138. Setting gage for
Width of Gain