Fig. 151. Attaching Plate to Brick Wall
CHAPTER VII
Estimating
74. Methods of Estimating.—Building costs may be divided into two main divisions, cost of material and cost of labor. There is but one so-called safe way to figure or estimate the cost of any particular piece of carpentry work. This consists in "taking off" the material quantities in detail and to this adding the labor cost of placing the same. This is the method in common use by contractors in making a final estimate. Where a rough or working estimate is required, such as an architect's estimate of the probable cost of a building planned by him, two methods may be used. One consists in figuring the cubical contents in feet and multiplying a predetermined, or unit price per cubic foot for that type of house. Ordinarily, the main frame is figured, counting from the basement floor to the top of the attic walls that are, or may be finished—outside measurements. Porches and open spaces are not figured. A second method consists in estimating the number of squares (100 sq. ft.) of side wall, of partitions, of floors, etc., and multiplying a predetermined price per square for a similar type of building. This latter method is more accurate than the cubic-foot unit method.
75. Table for Estimating by Cubic-Foot Unit.—The following table of unit prices will give a rough working estimate for various types of building differentiated after the custom of insurance adjusters. The prices are for 1915 and to be of any value must be compared with known costs of similar structures in the community in which they are to be used. Any evident variations in unit costs so discovered should be noted and corrections made.
CUBIC-FOOT UNIT ESTIMATE
| COUNTRY PROPERTY | PER CUBIC FOOT | |
| Frame dwelling, small box house, no cornice | 5c | |
| Frame dwelling, shingle roof, small cornice, no sash weights, plain | 6¼- | 7½c |
| Brick dwelling, same class | 8¼- | 10c |
| Frame dwelling, shingle roof, good cornice, sash weights, blinds (good house) | 8¼- | 10c |
| Brick dwelling, same class | 11¼- | 12½c |
| Frame barn, shingle roof, not painted, plain finish | 2¼- | 3¼c |
| Frame barn, shingle roof, painted, good foundation | 3 - | 4¼c |
| Frame store, shingle roof, painted, plain finish | 6¼- | 8¼c |
| Brick store, shingle roof, painted, good cornice, well finished | 8¼- | 11¼c |
| Frame church or school house, ordinary | 6¼- | 8¼c |
| Brick church or school house, ordinary | 10 - | 12½c |
| If slate or metal roof, add %c per cubic foot. | ||
| CITY PROPERTY | ||
| Frame dwelling, shingle roof, pine floors and finish, no bath or furnace, plain finish (good house) | ?½- | 8¼c |
| Brick dwelling, same class | 10 - | 11¼c |
| Frame dwelling, shingle roof, hardwood floors in hall and parlor, bath, furnace, fair plumbing | 10 - | 11¼c |
| Brick dwelling same class | 10 - | 12½c |
| Frame dwelling, shingle roof, hardwood in first floor, good plumbing, furnace, artistic design, some interior ornamentation, well painted | 12½- | 15c |
| Brick dwelling, good plumbing, bath, furnace, pine finish, well painted | 13¼- | 18c |
76. Grading Rules.—There is no uniformity as to grades of lumber. Fifteen or more associations have rules for inspection. and classification of lumber and these rules vary with the association and from year to year in the same association. The following rules taken from a catalogue of a middle west lumber concern will be found helpful:
Yellow Pine Dimension, Studding, Joists and Timbers
No. 1 Common.—The best grade and the one recommended for use on first class jobs.
No. 2 Common.—Dimension up to 20 feet long only can be obtained in this grade. Timbers are not manufactured in No. 2. This stock will show defects not found in No. 1 grade, and some pieces are not entirely straight. It is a sound, serviceable grade, but not recommended for first class work.