his delightful entremet—a special forte of the Congress chef—fulfills to perfection the mission of the dessert, which is to comfort the stomach by delicate reflex flattery through the palate.

It is a refreshing wave of gastronomic coolness, giving pleasure to the taste without the cloying sense of fullness. Let those whose fortune it is to know the charms of this dainty pay silent tribute to that French chef to whom the world is indebted for the delights of creamy sweets.

The cream is served from a large bowl. Beside each guest's plate is a tiny glass of Kermis, a sweet French cordial. A few drops of the Kermis poured over the cream gives it a delightful flavor and the spoonfuls fall upon the tongue as buoyantly as snowflakes.

Well may those who bring their dinner to an end with this delicacy echo the sweet lines of the poet:

"The last taste of sweets is sweetest last,
Writ in remembrance more than things long past."