Fig. 52. Three flues in the chimney, one of them leading from a fire-place.
All chimneys should have broad footing courses, which should rest on solid earth to prevent settling. They should not be supported by means of brackets ([Fig. 53]) or on the tops of small cupboards attached to the wall. Chimney walls of only 4-inch thickness are not safe; if they be double, or 8 inches thick, the number of bricks required are increased by more than 100 per cent, and the cost of the foundation is also increased. The heavy walls are objectionable by reason of added weight and cost, and because of the room they occupy. The introduction of fire-clay chimney lining makes it possible to construct safe chimneys with 4-inch walls. Then, too, the lining costs rather less than the extra course of brick, and the completed flue is smooth and of uniform dimensions on the inside.
Fig. 53. Chimney standing on a bracket.
The openings made in the frame for the chimney are often too small, in which case the chimney is likely to be “hung” on either the joists or rafters. There should be a clear space between the woodwork and chimney. If the opening in the frame is too small, the mason will be tempted to clip the brick where the chimney passes by the wood and then restore the chimney to its full size when the obstruction is passed. This results in hanging the chimney on some member of the frame. Should the foundation settle, the wall may part and sparks may then easily reach the dry wood in the room or at the roof of the house.
It is believed that the farmer, after reading these lines, may secure a good wall and one which fulfils the specifications, if he watches the work carefully as it progresses. If he does, he will have a much better wall than the average. Since the material and the kind of work desired vary so widely, it is not wise to lay down any fast rule for the proportions of the binding material and sand which may be used. It may be said, however, that the proportions vary from 1 of lime or cement to 2 of sand, to 1 of the former and 6 of the latter.
WOODEN HOUSES—THE FRAME
Almost any variety of wood will suffice for the frame of the house, provided it does not twist and spring out of shape too much before or after it is put into the building. Since the sills are to be placed on solid, continuous walls, they need not be large. The only objection to box and small sills is that they may allow too easy access of air and rodents from the walls of the rooms to the cellar, and vice versa, unless the spaces above the sills and between the studding are bricked in as high as the top of the first tier of joists. A rough floor laid before the upright studding is placed is shown in [Fig. 54]. This first floor should be laid diagonally, for the one which is laid immediately upon it should not be placed either parallel or at right angles to the boards of the first floor, or parallel with the joists. A little reflection will reveal the reasons for all this.
Fig. 54. The rough floor laid before the studding is erected.