Fig. 112. Built-up post.
The illustration ([Fig. 110]) shows one end of a 67 × 97-ft. barn, posts 18 ft. long, recently erected at the Pennsylvania Agricultural College. A cross-section at one side of the driving floor is also shown ([Fig. 111]). A cross-section of a built-up post is seen in [Fig. 112]. It will be seen that the building is firmly tied together, the roof fully supported, and that no timbers obstruct the unloading of provender by horse power. This new method of constructing large frames is so little known and the principles involved are so valuable that I append a foot note at the risk of being misunderstood.[7] Since long, large timbers have become expensive, it is probable that the plank frame will become as common in the near future, in barn building, as the balloon frame is in house building.
[7] Shawver Bros., Bellefontaine, Ohio, furnish models and bills of material for plank barns at a low cost.
It is frequently convenient to place horses or other animals on the second floor above other animals, or above a covered yard, in which case a tight floor may be made as follows ([Fig. 113]): Lay an unmatched, rough inch floor; upon this place strong, tarred building-paper, with joints well lapped. Saw and prepare the 2-inch planks which are to form the floors. For every four hundred square feet of floor, procure one barrel of hard Trinidad asphalt and three gallons of gas tar. A large iron kettle may be used for heating and mixing the material, which should be in the proportion of about one to ten. With an ax remove the barrel, and chop off and place in the kettle pieces of asphalt until it is not much more than one-half full, then add the due proportion of gas tar. The kettle should be placed in a rude arch and at a little distance from the building. By means of a slow fire heat the material. When all is ready, dip the hot mixture into a galvanized iron pail and pour it in a small stream on the paper, spreading to the width of the plank intended to be laid, by means of a shingle or paddle. Lay the plank in the hot material, being careful that when it is spiked down the hot asphalt does not fly up into the face. Then proceed to lay other planks in like manner. Finally pour some of the material into the cracks if there should be any.[8]
[8] A floor laid, as described, seventeen years ago, is still in good repair.
Fig. 113. Making a barn floor.
Should the floor become worn in time and need repairing, even up the surface by spreading thin cement mortar upon it, and upon this lay a second plank floor. The cement mortar will assist in making the floor water-tight and in preventing dry rot. Barn floors which have become much worn from driving over them may be treated in like manner. Where it seems advisable to place cows on the second floor, and over a manure cellar, the following plan may be adopted: A tight floor, as in the former case, is built with drips as shown; a small hole is placed between each pair of stalls, through which the voidings of the animals may be dropped into the story below, the floor of which is concreted. The objection might be raised that the manure underneath the animals would be objectionable; but since the floor of the stable described is tight when the openings in the drip are closed, and the story below is well lighted and ventilated, the objection does not hold good.
As far as possible, horses should stand with their heads away from the windows, as draughts of air and glaring sunlight are trying to their eyes. A few box stalls are convenient, and assist in providing the two cubic feet of air space which should be allowed for each pound of live weight in the horse barn. The stable should be so situated that the fumes of ammonia arising from it cannot reach the harness and carriages, if they are highly polished and expensive. The horse stable may often be placed on the second floor of the wing, as it brings it on a level with the main driving floor and near to where the wagons are likely to be kept. The story beneath the horses makes an acceptable covered yard. An office, which may be warmed, and a repair room should be provided in one corner of the barn or in a small detached building near to it.
If the farm is ample, and large amounts of hay and grain are to be stored, instead of building a wagon house, the main barn might be extended twenty feet, more or less, in length. This additional room may be used for carriages and light harness in part, and in part for the storage of grain, meal, and the like. The space underneath this room would serve to enlarge the cow stable. The place for washing carriages might also be located on the lower floor, where it would serve for storing the milk wagon as well, and the space above it could be devoted to storing hay and the like. Barn windows should have small panes of glass, as the cross bars of the windows serve not only to hold the glass but as fenders also. Since the glass in barn windows is likely to be broken, the cost of repairs is reduced to a minimum if the panes are small.