[23] The altitude of Demavend is variously stated.
[24] I remained for three weeks as Sir H. Drummond Wolff's guest at the British Legation, receiving from him that courtesy and considerate kindness which all who have been under his roof delight to recall. I saw much of what is worth seeing in Tihran, including the Shah and several of the Persian statesmen, and left the Legation with every help that could be given for a long and difficult journey into the mountains of Luristan.
[25] A volume of travels in Persia would scarcely be complete without some slight notice of the northern capital; but for detailed modern accounts of it the reader should consult various other books, especially Dr. Wills' and Mr. Benjamin's, if he has not already done so.
[26] There are only two roads, properly so called, in Persia, though in the summer wheeled carriages with some assistance can get from place to place over several of the tracks. These two are the road from Kûm to the capital, formerly described, and one from Kasvin to the capital, both under 100 miles in length. Goods are everywhere carried on the backs of animals.
| The distance between Bushire and Tihran is 698 miles. | ||||
| The summer | freight per ton is | £14 | 1 | 8 |
| The winter | do. | 20 | 2 | 0 |
| The distance between Tihran and Resht on the Caspian is 211 miles. | ||||
| The summer | freight per ton is | £4 | 0 | 5⅘ |
| The winter | do. | 8 | 0 | 11⅗ |
| From the Caspian to the Persian Gulf | ||||
| the summer | freight per ton is | £18 | 2 | 3 |
| The winter | do. | 28 | 3 | 4 |
| inclusive of some insignificant charges. | ||||
The time taken for the transit of goods between Bushire and Tihran is forty-two days, and between Resht and Tihran twelve days.
The cost per ton by rail, if taken at Indian rates, between the Gulf and the Caspian, would be £3:11:10.
On these figures the promoters of railway enterprise in Persia build their hopes.
[27] Some of the Bakhtiari khans or princes, with their families, are kept by the Shah as hostages in and round Tihran for the loyalty of their tribes, the conquest of these powerful nomads not being so complete as it might and possibly will be.
[28] On the eve of the day, the last of a festival of ten days, the common people kindle rows of bonfires and leap over them; and, though not on the same day, but on the night of the 25th of February, sacred in the Armenian Church as the day of the presentation of our Lord in the temple, large bonfires are lighted on the mud roofs of the Armenians of the Persian and Turkish cities, and the younger members of the households dance and sing and leap through the flames. Meanwhile the Moslems close their windows, so that the sins which the Christians are supposed to be burning may not enter. Whether these "Beltane fires" are a relic of the ancient fire worship or of still older rites may be a question. Among the Christians the custom is showing signs of passing away.