Journeys in Persia and Kurdistan, Volume 2 (of 2) / Including a Summer in the Upper Karun Region and a Visit to the Nestorian Rayahs

by Isabella L. Bird

From Erzerum to Trebizond.

hours
Elijeh	3½
Ashkala	7½
Kop Khané	8½
Baiburt	7
—— Bridge	6½
Getchid	4
Gumush Khané	8
Kupru Bridge	7
Hemizkeuy	8¾
Atli Killessi	8
Trebizond	6
199 Miles by Measurement.

INDEX

• A
• Ab-i-Arjanak, [ii. 77]
• Ab-i-Baznoi, [ii. 59], [70]
• Ab-i-Bazuft, [ii. 15]
• Ab-i-Burujird, [ii. 71], [114]
• Ab-i-Diz, [ii. 71], [113]
• Ab-i-Khonsar or Abi Kûm, [i. 161], [168], [170]
• Ab-i-Kirrind, [i. 93]
• Ab-i-Mowaz, [ii. 18]
• Ab-i-Nozi, [ii. 18]
• Ab-i-Sefid, [ii. 66]
• Ab-i-Zaz, [ii. 94]
• Abba, Arab dress, [i. 33]
• Abdul Azim, [i. 178], [189]
• —— Rahim, [i. 99];
  • hospitality, [99];
  • family history, [99];
  • ménage, [101], [115];
  • courtesy, [114]
• Abraham, Deacon, [ii. 243]
• Agha Hassan, [i. 99]
• Ahang Garang, [i. 152]
• Ahwaz, [i. 9], [10]
• Aimarah, [i. 16];
  • prison, [17]
• Akabah-i-Holwan, [i. 88]
• Akhlat, [ii. 360];
  • rock chambers, [361];
  • castle, [362];
  • monoliths, [362];
  • turbehs or mausoleums, [362]
• Akhtamar, Island rock of, [ii. 343];
  • Church, [343]
• Alexander, Dr., [ii. 162]
• Ali-Ilahis, [i. 85], [86]
• Ali-Kuh, [ii. 1], [4];
  • wild-flowers, [5];
  • Pass, [5]
• Aliabad, caravanserai of, [i. 172], [226]
• Amin-es-Sultan, or Prime Minister, [i. 176], [203]
• Amin-i-lewa, [ii. 5]
• Amir-i-Panj, [i. 261]-[266];
  • character, [262];
  • andarun, [263];
  • on the education and position of English women, [264]
• Amirabad, [ii. 205]
• Angugh, [ii. 341]
• Anhar, [ii. 261]
• Arabs, improvement of, [i. 11];
  • condition, [20];
  • costume, [33];
  • tattooing, [34]
• Arak, [i. 272]
• Ardal, [i. 311], [317], [336]; [ii. 2];
  • valley, [i. 316];
  • castle, [318];
  • andarun, [318]-[322]
• Ardost, peaks of, [ii. 338]
• Arjanak, [ii. 78]
• Arjul, alpine meadow, [i. 349]
• Armenian houses, [i. 37], [270];
  • women, [272];
  • churches, [273]-[276];
  • pictures, [274];
  • long fasts, [276];
  • superstitions, [277];
  • costume, [278], [364];
  • needle-work, [366];
  • banquet, [367];
  • church, [368];
  • characteristics of, [ii. 336];
  • condition, [340];
  • brides, [368];
  • in Kurdistan, [373]-[377];
  • ruins, [389]
• Artemid, [ii. 341]
• Ashirets, the, [ii. 314]
• Ashkala, [ii. 387]
• Aslam Khan, [ii. 63]
• Aurugun, [i. 370]

• B
• Baba Ali Mountain, [ii. 197]
• Bābā Yadgār, tomb of, [i. 86]
• Babarashan, [ii. 177]
• Bābis, sect of the, [i. 273]
• Badush, [ii. 83]
• Bagh-i-Washi, [i. 301]
• Baghdad, [i. 21];
  • Church Mission at, [24];
  • impressions of, [26];
  • population, [28];
  • bazars, [29];
  • cafés, [30];
  • trade, [30], [43];
  • "Fish of Tobias," [31];
  • bricks, [35];
  • schools at, [36], [37];
  • dispensary, [38];
  • boils, [39]
• Bahar, [ii. 169]
• Baiburt, [ii. 388]
• Bakhtiari Country, the general description of, [i. 286]-[293];
  • women, [319];
  • hair-dyes, [319];
  • costume, [320];
  • dying man, [322]-[325];
  • politics, [327];
  • punishments, [329];
  • entertainment, [331];
  • haram, [353];
  • marriage customs, [355];
  • chapi, national dance, [356];
  • conceit, [357];
  • camping-ground, [371];
  • tents, [372];
  • hospitality, [377];
  • diseases, [379];
  • education, [ii. 7];
  • methods of cultivation, [9];
  • paternal tenderness, [21];
  • diet, [22];
  • sensitiveness, [32];
  • poverty, [54];
  • "blood feuds," [55];
  • tribal feuds, [84];
  • tribesmen, [98];
  • burial rites, [99];
  • graveyards, [100];
  • religion, [101]-[103];
  • men's costume, [106];
  • women's, [107];
  • polygamy, [108];
  • population, [110 note];
  • taxation, [111];
  • exports, [111];
  • animals, [117]
• Baldiji, Moslem village, [i. 369]
• Bani, [ii. 267]
• Barchallah, [ii. 286]
• Basnoi, [ii. 67]
• Basrah, [i. 1], [6];
  • climate, [7];
  • date industry, [7];
  • inhabitants, [8]
• Bawali, [ii. 124]
• Bazuft or Rudbar valley, [ii. 10], [13]
• Beladruz, [i. 60]
• Bell, Colonel S., on Van, [ii. 338], [340]
• Berigun, [ii. 23]
• Berwar-Lata valley, [ii. 323]
• Besitun range, [i. 98], [119];
  • village, [121], [122]
• Bideshk, [i. 236]
• Bihishtabad, the Mansion of Heaven, [ii. 3]
• Bijar, [ii. 173], [178]
• Bijilan mountain, [ii. 368]
• Bilar, [ii. 323]
• Bingol Dagh, [ii. 370]
• Bitlis, [ii. 341], [350];
  • trade, [351];
  • population, [352];
  • Christian Mission at, [354];
  • school, [355];
  • mineral springs, [359];
  • valley, [349]
• Blizzards, [i. 95], [123], [154], [235]; [ii. 370]
• Boka, [i. 129]
• "Boy," a pet horse, [ii. 135]
• Bread-making, Persian, [i. 159]
• Browne, Mr., [ii. 284], [317]-[319]
• Bruce, Dr., [i. 5], [46], [248], [252]
• —— Mrs., [i. 245]
• Buffaloes, [ii. 212]
• Burujird, town of, [ii. 124];
  • "tribute insurrection," [127];
  • population, [130];
  • manufactures, [130];
  • prosperity, [131];
  • plain of, [124]
• Bushire, [i. 1];
  • commerce of, [3]

• C
• Canals, [i. 51]
• Caravan, fate of a, [i. 133]
• Caravans, [i. 50]; [ii. 388];
  • collision of, [i. 91], [144]
• Caravanserai, dirt of a, [i. 81]-[83]
• Carmelite monks, French, [i. 37]
• Carpets, Persian, [i. 109]
• Chadar, [i. 17]
• Chahar Bagh bridge, [i. 258]
• —— Mahals or four districts, [i. 308], [361]
• Chaharta, [i. 359]
• Chaldæan plains, [i. 14]
• Challeh Kuh, peak of, [i. 370]
• Chalonitis, [i. 85]
• Chaman Kushan, plain of, [ii. 28]
• Chapi, Bakhtiari dance, [i. 356]
• Charmi village, [i. 307]
• Charzabar Pass, [i. 94]
• Cherri Pass, [ii. 13]
• Cheshmeh-i-Charzabar torrent, [i. 95]
• Chesmeh-i-Gurab, [i. 346]
• —— Zarin, plain of, [ii. 24]
• Chigakhor, [i. 348];
  • plain of, [369];
  • patients, [369];
  • "season," [370];
  • fort, [375]
• Child-life, Persian, [i. 218]
• Chiraz, [i. 358]
• Christian missions at Baghdad, [i. 24];
  • at Bitlis, [ii. 355];
  • at Erzerum, [382];
  • at Hamadan, [162],
    • result of, [164 note];
  • at Julfa, [i. 248];
  • at Tihran, [188];
  • at Urmi, [ii. 221]-[234],
    • history of, [226],
    • results, [229];
  • at Van, [335 note]
• "Christians of St. John," [i. 17]
• Cochrane, Dr., [ii. 224]
• Ctesiphon, ruins of, [i. 22]
• Curzon, Mr. G., letter to the Times, [i. 198];
  • on Julfa, [246]

• D
• Dalonak, peak of, [ii. 16]
• Darkash Warkash, [i. 317]
• Dastagird, [i. 60]
• Dastgird, [i. 376]
• "Date boils," [i. 39]
• —— palms, [i. 8]
• Daulatabad, [ii. 140]
• "David's Fort," [i. 86]
• Dead, mode of carrying, [i. 36], [168]
• Dehnau village, [i. 353]
• Demavend, cone of, [i. 176], [240]
• "Demon wind," the, [i. 127]
• Dervishes, [i. 236]-[238]
• "Desert," the, [i. 48]
• Deswali, [ii. 134]
• Deveh Boyun, [ii. 385]
• Dilakoff, Yacub, [ii. 223 note]
• Dilleh, peak of, [ii. 22]
• Dima, [ii. 19], [25]
• Dinarud river, [i. 348]
• Dissa, [ii. 216]
• Diyalah, [i. 51], [60]
• Diz Arjanak, [ii. 82]
• Diza, [ii. 276];
  • reduction of the garrison, [276];
  • first visit to a Turkish official, [277]
• Dizabad, [i. 140];
  • ruins of, [142]
• Dizful or Bridge of Diz, [ii. 71]
• Drinayi Pass, [ii. 275]
• Duab river, [ii. 11]
• Duashda Imams, [i. 343]
• Dukkani-Daoud or David's shop, [i. 85], [87]
• Dupulan, [i. 351];
  • Pass, [352]

• E
• Elam, Upper, [ii. 34]
• Elburz mountains, [i. 176], [225]
• Elijeh, [ii. 386]
• Elwend, Mount, [ii. 144]
• England, native opinions of, [i. 19], [73], [171], [198]; [ii. 7], [79], [128], [199], [272]
• Erzerum, [ii. 381];
  • Christian mission at, [382];
  • trade, [383];
  • "sights," [383];
  • "troubles," [383];
  • Sanassarian College, [385]
• Esther and Mordecai, tomb of, [ii. 153]
• Etiquette, code of, [i. 105]
• Euphrates, [ii. 365], [368]
• Eyal, hamlet of, [ii. 275]
• Ezra, tomb of, [i. 13]

• F
• Faidun, [ii. 47]
• Fao, [i. 5]
• Fath' Ali Shah, [i. 170]
• Fatima, shrine of, [i. 167]-[169];
  • pilgrimages to, [167]
• Feraghan, plain of, [i. 151];
  • carpets, [151];
  • salt lake, [158]
• Fire-worshippers, [i. 194]
• Fraser, Mr. Baillie, Travels in Kurdistan, [i. 28]
• Frat, the, [ii. 386]