This region of essentially level plateaus, extending as it does from the hot lands of eastern Mexico nearly to the arctic circle, presents great diversity of climate and also well-marked variations in the secondary features of its relief. Of necessity it needs to be subdivided for more detailed study. The rivers flowing eastward from the Rocky Mountains have excavated valleys in the plateau region, and may be used as a basis for its subdivision. This has been done by J. W. Powell for the portion within the borders of the United States, and the terms Pecos plateau, Arkansas plateau, Platte plateau, and Missouri plateau have been proposed; this category may be extended especially to the northward, so as to include the less well-known Saskatchewan, Athabasca, Peace, and Laird plateaus. Each of these divisions is in reality a group of plateaus, for the reason that the broad areas between the eastward-flowing rivers are trenched by lateral stream channels
tributary to the main waterways, and thus subdivided into smaller units. This subdivision of the plateau region by stream channels leaving flat-topped areas between them makes one instructive geographical process prominent—that is, the great table-land has been dissected. The depths of the channels cut across it depend mainly on the elevation of the land and the distance the streams have to travel to reach the sea; but modifying conditions are furnished by the degree of resistance the rocks offer to erosion, the amount of precipitation, etc. If the elevation is great, the stream can cut deeply, and leave bold secondary plateaus between them; if the distance to the sea is short, other conditions being the same, the streams can cut more deeply than when their courses are long; if the rocks are resistant, they are left in bold escarpment bordering the valleys and the margins of the secondary plateaus are well defined, but if they are soft and crumble easily, their débris is washed and blown into the rivers, and a general lowering of the surface without the formation of deep trenches is the result. These and still other conditions have influenced the manner in which the Great plateaus have been dissected, and are of necessity to be considered in a critical discussion of the history of the land as recorded in its relief.
The main reason for the dissection of the region under consideration is to be found in the fact that it is bordered on the west by high mountains where precipitation is abundant, and the streams, supplied largely by the melting of the snow in summer, flow across a comparatively rainless country. The stream channels in general have been deepened at a more rapid rate than the areas between them have been lowered by erosion. Valleys running east and west have thus been excavated, leaving the intervening spaces as uplands, which, however, in certain instances have been minutely dissected by the streams originating on them and supplied by local winter precipitation. Added to these general conditions are differences in rock texture, which have led to great variations in the details due to erosions, particularly on the valley borders.
One other condition which has modified the history
of the plateau region throughout, but most decidedly at the north, is the climatic change which culminated in the Glacial epoch. During the time referred to the northern portion of the Great plateaus situated in Canada and the adjacent part of the United States was invaded by glacial ice which spread an irregular sheet of detritus over the country it occupied. Decided changes occurred also in the central and southern portion owing to increased precipitation, the flooding of the rivers leading from the melting ice-front, and to movements in the earth's crust of as yet undetermined extent and amplitude. It is apparent to the geographer that much of the history of the climatic changes of glacial and post-glacial times is recorded in the relief of the interior Continental basin to the south of the limit reached by the ice and in the terraces and alluvial deposits of the valleys, but as yet for the most part this interesting story remains unread.
The most deeply dissected portion of the Great plateaus occurs in western Texas, eastern New Mexico, and Oklahoma. In that region the rivers having their sources in the Rocky Mountains and flowing to the Gulf of Mexico have excavated deep and wide valleys, leaving broad intervening areas in bold relief.
The Pecos River drains a large part of the mountainous region in eastern New Mexico, and flows through a valley of its own making, which is some 30 or more miles broad and its bottom about 1,200 feet below the general surface of the plateau lying to the eastward. The Canadian River has excavated a similar valley, which is some 40 miles broad throughout much of its course, and is bordered by bold rocky escarpments from 1,000 to 1,200 feet high, in which the edges of the horizontal strata underlying the adjacent plateaus are exposed. This region of large and strongly defined topographic features illustrates in a remarkable manner the nature of the work performed by streams which rise amid high mountains and flow across a dry plateau standing well above sea-level.
El Llano Estacado.—A typical portion of the great plateau region left by deep dissection is furnished by the
table-land named by early Mexican explorers "El Llano Estacado," or the Staked Plains, in reference to the fact that owing to the monotony of the surface and the scarcity of water the routes of travel were at first marked by stakes. This region, celebrated in the traditions of the Southwest frontier, is described by Captain Marcy, who crossed its eastern portion in 1849, as being "much elevated above the surrounding country, very smooth and level, and spreading out in every direction as far as the eye can penetrate, without a tree, shrub, or any other herbage to intercept the vision. The traveller in passing over it sees nothing but one dreary and monotonous plain of barren solitude. It is an ocean of desert prairie, where the voice of man is seldom heard, and where no living being permanently resides. The almost total absence of water causes all animals to shun it; even the Indians do not venture to cross it, except at two or three points, where they find a few small pools of water." As will be shown below, the barrenness and desolation of this arid tract is not so great as it seemed to those who first invaded its primeval solitude.
El Llano Estacado, or the Llano, as it is frequently termed, is about 500 miles across from north to south, and 280 miles wide from east to west. It is bordered on nearly all portions of its periphery by descending escarpments which lead down to the adjacent valleys. Its surface, although appearing horizontal, in reality slopes eastward at the rate of about 20 feet per mile, and on its highest, northwest border, has an elevation of 5,500 feet above the sea. This great table-land has a smooth floor, and, as reported by recent explorers, is clothed with an abundance of bunch-grass, which formerly furnished sustenance to herds of antelope and deer. It was in this general region also that some of the immense herds of buffalo which once inhabited the broad plateaus found a winter range.