The following facts should be taken into consideration when operating the Moist-air dry kiln:

1. Before any material has been placed in the drying room, the steam should be turned into the heating or radiating coils, gradually warming them, and bringing the temperature in the kiln up to the desired degree.

2. Care should be exercised that there is sufficient humidity in the receiving or loading end of the kiln, in order to guard against checking, case-hardening, etc. Therefore it is essential that the steam spray at the receiving or loading end of the kiln be properly manipulated.

3. As the temperature depends principally upon the pressure of steam carried in the boilers, maintain a steam pressure of not less than 80 pounds at all times; it may range as high as 100 pounds. The higher the temperature with its relatively high humidity the more rapidly the drying will be accomplished.

4. Since air circulation is as essential as the proper degree of heat, and as its contact with the material to be dried depends upon its free circulation, it is necessary that the dampers for its admittance into, and its exit from, the drying room be efficiently and properly operated. Successful drying cannot be accomplished without ample and free circulation of air at all times during the drying process.

If the above basic principles are carefully noted and followed out, and good common sense used in the handling and operation of the kiln apparatus, no serious difficulties should arise against the successful drying of the materials at hand.

Choice of Drying Method

At this point naturally arises the question: Which of the two classes of dry kilns, the "Moist-air" or "Blower" kiln is the better adapted for my particular needs?

This must be determined entirely by the species of wood to be dried, its condition when it goes into the kiln, and what kind of finished product is to be manufactured from it.

Almost any species of hardwood which has been subjected to air-seasoning for three months or more may be dried rapidly and in the best possible condition for glue-jointing and fine finishing with a "Blower" kiln, but green hardwood, direct from the saw, can only be successfully dried (if at all) in a "Moist-air" kiln.