In the lower end of each of the upright sticks of this device a quarter-inch hole is bored and a piece of dowel stick glued into the hole. A thin wire nail driven into the upright and a binding of copper wire help to secure the dowel stick (Fig. 6).
Detail of framework of home-made camping outfit. Note in Fig. 6 how the little piece of dowel stick is inserted into the upright of the tent frame. Figs. 7 and 9 show how the frame and cots are assembled, while Fig. 8 gives detail for wiring.
You now have a framework secured by brass [[42]]joints and fitted at the lower end with wooden posts which rest in the outer holes at the ends of the cots (Figs. 7 and 9). As the illustrations indicate, the framework described must be made in duplicate, one for each end of the tent.
From the holes in the two corner joints of this arrangement picture wire is stretched to the screw-eyes at the inner ends of the crosspieces and secured by snap-buckles (Fig. 8, left).
At each end of the tent a flat piece of brass, two and a half inches long and three-quarter inches wide is the means employed for the guy ropes and ridge wire. There are three holes in the brass piece, one for the guy rope, the center one for the center post in the tent’s framework, and the third for the ridge wire (Fig. 8, center and right).
The exterior of the tent is similar to that of an ordinary tent in shape. It can be made from any quality of duck, but should be waterproofed when completed. Waterproofing preparations can be bought at most sporting goods or hardware stores.
Dimensions of the Tent
The slope of the roof of the tent on each side is three feet ten inches by six feet six inches. The outside walls below the slope are twenty-one inches by six feet six inches. These are the dimensions for the outside of the tent and the pattern for its construction is shown in Fig. 10. One feature that will [[43]]be noted is that the outside flaps are fitted with holes for tapes so that they may be tied back to the ridge, permitting the freer flow of air.