Mr. Griffin shifts for the last time in the October of the year preceding them in which the fruit is expected; the pots he uses are twelve inches in diameter, and ten inches deep. He plunges them in the bark-bed, about twenty inches plant from plant, and two feet distance from row to row. He says, “place the first row eighteen inches from the kirb, angling them in the rows as you go on.”
It is of some consequence to remark, that Griffin’s practice in not divesting the plants at any one shifting of their balls of earth, differs from that of Speechly, Nicol, and most other practitioners, excepting Baldwin. It appears highly probable, that by not disturbing the balls of healthy plants, they will produce their fruit both earlier and of a larger size; for the cutting off the roots must produce a check in the growth of the plant, and their renewal must occupy its chief energies for some time, and thus lessen the vigour of the leaves; since the leaves and roots of all plants assist each other alternately as occasion requires.
Those who advocate the practice of shaking off the balls of earth, and cutting off the roots of Pines in the second year’s spring shifting, say, that though, at first sight, it has an unnatural appearance, yet, on more minute enquiry, it will be found congenial to nature. In the first place, they say that they only cut away the lower decaying roots, and preserve all the others, unless they are bruised by the shaking off the ball; or injured by disease, or otherwise. In the next place, they state, that on attentively examining the Pine-plant, it will be found, that, in its mode of rooting, it may be classed with the strawberry, vine, and crowfoot, which throw out fresh roots every year, in part among, but chiefly above, the old ones. This done, the old ones become torpid and decay, and to cut them clear away, if it could be done in all plants of this habit, would, it is said, be assisting nature, and contribute to the growth of the new roots. At the same time, it is to be observed, that encouraging, in any extraordinary degree, the production of roots, though it will ultimately increase the vigour of the herb and fruit, will retard their progress to maturity.
Speechly has the following judicious observations in allusion to those who recommend always shifting with the balls entire.
“First, It is observable, that the Pine-plant begins to make its roots at the very bottom of the stem, and as the plant increases in size, fresh roots are produced from the stem, still higher and higher; and the bottom roots die in proportion: so that, if a plant in the greatest vigour be turned out of its pot as soon as the fruit is cut, there will be found at the bottom a part of the stem, several inches in length, naked, destitute of roots, and smooth: now, according to the above method, the whole of the roots which the plant produces being permitted to remain on the stem to the last, the old roots decay and turn mouldy, to the great detriment of those afterwards produced.
“Secondly, The first ball which remains with the plant full two years, by length of time will become hard, cloddy, and exhausted of its nourishment, and must, therefore, prevent the roots afterwards produced from growing with that freedom and vigour, which they would do in fresher and better mould.
“Thirdly, The old ball continually remaining after the frequent shiftings, it will be too large when put into the fruiting-pot, to admit of a sufficient quantity of fresh mould to support the plant till its fruit becomes ripe, which is generally a whole year from the last time of shifting.”
In giving air and water, Mr. Griffin differs nothing from Nicol; he waters moderately in winter, and more liberally in the growing season, from March till October; want of water to keep the plants moist, he considers one of the reasons of their showing fruit prematurely. He never waters over the leaves in any stage, nor gives much at the roots in damp weather.
With respect to temperature, this author differs from most others who have written on the Pine, but not from many very successful practitioners. He recommends 60° as the heat proper for the Pine in every stage, not exceeding five or six degrees over or under. The bottom heat, which he considers proper, is from 90° to 100°. Treatise on the Pine Apple, p. 60. and 66.