Zennor Churchtown. [Face page 166.


CHAPTER XIV
A MIDNIGHT VISIT TO THE SEAL-CAVES

The wildest of British wild sports is the pursuit of the seal in the almost inaccessible cliff-caves to which it at times resorts. Of its haunts along the north coast of Cornwall—it is but rarely seen on the south—from the Land’s End to Tintagel, the caverns of Hell’s Bay are perhaps those which it most frequents. More secluded or safer fastnesses it would be difficult to imagine, yet in these it may be surprised by those who do not shrink from the peril the pursuit involves. The nearest homestead to the Black Cliffs, as those skirting Hell’s Bay are named, is Reskageage; and to its occupant, Mr N., who has led many expeditions against the seals, I owed the opportunity of sharing a bit of sport the wildness of which it is beyond my power to declare.

He had promised to send me word when circumstances seemed favourable to our purpose, and one morning towards the end of September 189-, whilst staying at St Ives, I received the following message from him:—“Come if possible to-morrow (Thursday) afternoon. I have just seen three seals under the cliffs, and the chances are we shall find some in the caves, as they have not been disturbed for a long time. One of the light-keepers of Godrevy tells me that he has not seen so many playing about the reef for years. If you sail across the bay and the water is smooth, land on the north side of the Red River.”