A rough sketch of modern Paris

by J. G. Lemaistre

There is also a ménagerie, or collection of animals, among which every kind of fierce, rare, and foreign quadrupeds may be found. On my first arrival at Paris, there were two elephants, of different sizes, who had lived several years together in the same stable. They were of very considerable dimensions, equal to those, the effigy of which is sometimes seen on a London stage. The male has lately died, and “Cuvier” is to anatomise the body, and give a lecture on the subject. The female, for some time after the death of her companion, showed evident symptoms of grief, and even refused, at first, every kind of nourishment. The house attached to “le Jardin des Plantes” is filled with a precious collection of curiosities in natural history, properly arranged, and correctly named. Several rooms are filled with these valuable objects; and I am told, by persons acquainted with such subjects, that very little is wanting to make this dépôt complete. Stuffed quadrupeds[85], birds, plants, fossils, fish, and shells, offer every kind of variety; and even the ignorant man finds here a source of never-failing amusement. The collection of insects is particularly curious and extensive. I believe it is considered as the finest in the world.

The “Jardin des Plantes,” like every other national establishment at Paris, is seen gratuitously, and is open to foreigners every day, while frenchmen are only admitted three or four times in each week. It is impossible to mention too often, or to admire too highly, a trait of hospitality so truly magnificent.

The “cabinet de l’École des Mines” is a superb establishment. It is situate in the principal building towards the key of the “hôtel des Monnaies.” It was formed in 1778, of the collection which the famous mineralogist, le Sage, was eighteen years in putting together. The middle of the cabinet forms an amphitheatre, capable of containing two hundred persons. Glass cases enclose, in the finest order, minerals of every kind, and from every part of the world. Four other separate cases offer models of machinery. On the stairs, leading to the gallery, is the bust of monsieur le Sage, which was placed there by the gratitude of his pupils. The gallery itself is surrounded with cases, containing specimens of the productions of mines, too numerous to be placed with those which are in the first cabinet of mines. The interior of the cabinet is 45 feet long, by 38 wide, and 40 feet high. All the english, who have seen “l’École des Mines,” agree, in speaking of it as one of the most interesting sights of this interesting capital[86].

Beside the great establishments which I have mentioned, there are several others, which it would be an endless task to attempt to specify.

There are also many “lycées” or “athénées,” beside that of which I have spoken. There are likewise private subscription lectures on all subjects, many of which are of high repute, such as those of Mr. Charles on natural philosophy, of the excellence of whose experiments, and the clearness of whose discourses, I hear a very favourable account.

The english, german, and italian languages, are taught by professors at the different “lycées,” by particular subscription, and for moderate sums in other places. In short, there is no literary pursuit, of any kind, which any man, in any circumstances, may not cultivate with success at Paris.

Fortitude is necessary to resist the opportunities of committing crimes, if the individual be poor, and of falling into the temptations of pleasure, if he happen to be rich. Guarded against these respective evils, the industrious scholar, whether covered with rags, or “clad every day in purple,” may move on in the career of letters with every possible advantage, and with the certitude of, at last, obtaining the utmost object of his wishes. If any equality exist in France, it is found in the fount of knowledge, which literally

“⸺In patriam populumque fluxit.”

In addition to the opportunities afforded for literary improvement already mentioned, the price of books is moderate; and “cabinets litéraires” offer in every quarter of the town, and almost in every street, newspapers, pamphlets, and periodical works.