The drawing-rooms, and “salles à manger,” are lighted, even at the largest assemblies, with oil, instead of wax; and antichambers and staircases are so dark, that to find one’s way into the principal apartment is generally a service of difficulty, if not of danger. As to fire, on common occasions, one in the bed room either of “madame,” or “monsieur,” is thought sufficient, with the addition of a “poële,” or stove, which is so contrived, as to heat both the eating room, and the antichamber, in which latter the servants always sit. In respect to dress, an old great coat (or “riding coat,” as they call it) is often worn in the house, by gentlemen, and the belles who appear with the greatest splendour in the evening, sometimes pass their morning in a powdering gown, or “robe de chambre.”
The same kind of rigid economy is observed in their amusements. A family of distinction will occupy a box “au second, or au bagnoir[88],” to save a few livres; and I knew a young lady of considerable fortune, who expressed an anxious wish to see the first appearance of Vestris, and who, when a place was offered her, refused it, malgré the general passion for spectacles, and the celebrity of this, when she found that the price of the ticket was nine francs (or seven and sixpence english). I have entered into this explanation, to account for the apparently splendid establishments of persons of moderate fortunes, which might otherwise seem to contradict the opinion which I am about to give, and which I have already hinted.
I repeat, then, that an english family settling here[89], with english ideas and english habits, would spend very little less than they would do in London, with a similar establishment.
To enable you to judge for yourself on this subject, I shall mention the prices of the most essential articles of expense; some of which are lower, while others are infinitely higher.
Meat is much cheaper, being only eleven or twelve sols per pound (or five or six pence english).
Bread bears, at present, nearly the same price in the two countries.
The keep of horses costs infinitely less at Paris, than in London.
Poultry is cheaper; and wine of the best kind may be bought for something more than we pay for good port.
On the other hand, house rent is equally dear, if not dearer. Furniture is exorbitant; and dress of all kinds, both for men and women (only excepting shoes and gloves) is, beyond comparison, dearer in price, and more expensive in its kind.
The price of amusements, in the first places, is nearly the same at the large theatres of Paris, as at those of London; and spectacles, being infinitely more frequented at the former than in the latter city, much more is spent, in this article, in the one than in the other capital.